Power sander dust extraction

[RichyB2024]

Hello



I recently purchased a Bosch GET-150 turbo sander which I am very happy with.


Bosch recommended the GAS 35 M for extraction as it has the correct connector, however it is £600 and some of the reviews say it has poor suction after a short amount of use.


My question is: does anyone have experience with this sander and connecting it to different types of extractors. I have a V-TUF M class which is pretty solid and I was thinking I could just buy the Bosch hose and connect it that way.


I’m not against paying £400-£500 for the right machine though, so if a Festool or Mirka extractor can be adapted to fit my Bosch sander I would definitely consider it.


Cheers



Rich

 

[Katomi woodsmith]

Hiya I looked at the image of your sander
For my tools that are new enough to have a dust extract port I have and use a bowmag ash vac
Bought mine off amazam about 70.00 gbp
I don’t have adapters for my power tools circle saw, band saw, chop saw, so I use gaffe tape.
I forget the filter spec, I think it’s about 1micron or I use my numatic henery with hepa bags
Hope this helps

 

[TRITON]

There are two main classes on Festool. L class and M class.
The difference on the festool is M class has a little beep beep alarm when the bag is full, and L class has no alarm.
Filtration wise they are EXACTLY THE SAME. They take the same filters, they take the same dust bag. The only difference between them is the alarm, and the fact the M class is much more expensive.

So if you go for the festool, just get the L class and save yourself £100+

 

[Sachakins]

Festool M class has finer filtration

L class
Suitable for low-to-moderate risk dusts, such as wood or plaster dust. L class extractors are considered entry-level and are used for softwoods and solid surface materials.
M class
Suitable for medium-risk dusts, including hazardous materials, such as hard woods, board materials, concrete, and brick dust. M class extractors are the next step up from L class extractors.

 

[TRITON]

Festool M class has finer filtration

L class
Suitable for low-to-moderate risk dusts, such as wood or plaster dust. L class extractors are considered entry-level and are used for softwoods and solid surface materials.
M class
Suitable for medium-risk dusts, including hazardous materials, such as hard woods, board materials, concrete, and brick dust. M class extractors are the next step up from L class extractors.

 

[Sachakins]

I'd seen a couple of vids like this and do wonder myself how accurate the classification and difference is, especially after a few hours of use, as the particle build up in filters would rapidly change the particulate filtration limits as well.

I only put up the definitions to help understanding.
But I do wonder if real world use lives up to scientific ideal testing environments. Bit like the car mpg claims and the reality of actual mpg

 

[Sideways]

If you have an M class vac already it should be fine. Absolutely start by buying a hose / hose end to fit whatever sander.
Things you need from the dust extractor :
Variable power because full suction can pull the sander down onto the surface too hard. Dialling down the vac is often helpful. Alternately an air bleed at the hose can work but those tend to create a lot of noise.
A "bypass" type vacuum motor. This means the vacuum draws cooling air for the motor in through a port in the side of the vacuum and doesn't rely on the flow of dirty air through the bag and the turbine going on to cool the motor. The airflow through sanders is actually pretty small and using an ordinary vacuum with a non bypass motor with a sander is the only use I've had that overheated the vac and left me waiting a half hour for it to cool down.
A filter shaker is nice but not essential.

Mirka branded vacuum hoses are cheaper than most of the other big name brands and a good choice for a hose to hook up a sander. They are all antistatic. Their cheapest comes with a basic flexible plastic powertool connector that I use with metabo and mirka sanders, and fits a domino just fine. The version with a rubber, swivel tool connector is better but dearer.

Lastly, the Bosch GAS series of machines use almost exactly the same turbines as Festool and Nilfisk top end shop vacs so if anyone is reporting loss of suction, it's likely the bag or filter blocking up and this does depend on what you're sucking up. Absolutely no need to have a "matching" vacuum for your sander though.

 

[HamsterJam]

I use a cyclone between my sander and dust extractor. This intercepts the fine dust before it can clog the filters.
It a repurposed Dyson vacuum cleaner part with 3D printed adaptors so it accepts the relevant hoses.

 

[Hypnotic Chimera]

I have an old cheapo sander that I've used for years and is still OK (for now!) - but I've never used dust extraction up until recently, when I bought a fairly inexpensive shop vac - an Evolution R15 - and find that this is a good partner for the old cheapo sander - especially with the in-line power on/off function. Extraction works pretty well with only a very little very, very fine dust layer remaining on the stock after use - easily wiped off. I've added a cyclone bucket into the hose line as well and find this works fantastic, with virtually zero dust getting into the vac and onto the internal filter.

I'll never go back to not using the vac (&cyclone) for power sanding.

 

[paulrbarnard]

One point to note is that you can over extract a sander. The recommendation on Festool sanders is to reduce the suction of the vac.