GregW
Greg W.
Great job.
Could you do one more for me?
How much you would charge?
if I like to order one to fit it into my?
Post a photo of the last thing you made
- Thread starter DTR
- Start date
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Great job.
Could you do one more for me?
How much you would charge?
if I like to order one to fit it into my?
GregW
Greg W.
I would like offer for your pens too, as gifts for senior member of my family
MarkAW
Established Member
Those are really good!
I would like offer for your pens too, as gifts for senior member of my family
Message sent
pulleyt
Established Member
Thank you
These are the first trinket sized boxes I've made. I wanted to have a go with the masking tape method I watched in this Mike Farrington video. I've a fair bit of experience with the Kumiko panels now so it was more an exercise to make sure I could get the angles of the box sides accurately cut. They were a fun project and a great way of using some off-cuts. I think I know what may be the Christmas gifts for the extended family this year
Doug B
Shy Tot
You’d be better getting one made locally, I made mine at a mates as I don’t have a miller but I still had to fettle it at the lathe to get it to friction fit the table opening when I got it back to my shop.Great job.
Could you do one more for me?
How much you would charge?
if I like to order one to fit it into my?
Beautiful boxes!
I think I know what may be the Christmas gifts for the extended family this year
Adoption papers on the way
Jameshow
Established Member
I always overthink things, so typically I’d have:
- Made it twice oversize, for the other planes that are on my ‘need’ list.
- Made it from oak with unnecessary joinery so it would last a lifetime.
- Glued it and screwed it, just in case.
- Built a sketchup model with accuracy to three decimal places.
- etc
It was super refreshing to make something by eye, with no measurements, and in a reasonable period of time.
Fitz.
Lots of workshop sorting out at the mo. After figuring out how to sharpen the chisels, and picking up a couple of extra sizes, the morticer is now firmly in service. Not a full rebuild but broken down into parts, derusted, degreased, and desawdusted, and rebuilt. Works well, and will do 19mm mortices in oak without too much effort.
Doug B
Shy Tot
Something a bit different for a change, a chap wanted two feet to hold a piece of 10mm toughened glass to act as a screen.
Made from air dried English Oak & finished with Osmo oil
Made from air dried English Oak & finished with Osmo oil
Another in a series of very random projects. This one being a Xylophone.
Maple body and Iroko keys with a brass crown inlay, which is a first too as I've never done any inlay work.
Body ended up being doweled rather than any finer form of joinery just because it was already dragging on a bit. With the internal panel (not seen) and the handles overlapping the joins it's probably more than sturdy enough.
Tuning the keys is a bit of a job in itself, spindle sander a must imo and despite all the info I found saying to scallop with a bandsaw first that just always seemed a bit gung ho for me.
Maple body and Iroko keys with a brass crown inlay, which is a first too as I've never done any inlay work.
Body ended up being doweled rather than any finer form of joinery just because it was already dragging on a bit. With the internal panel (not seen) and the handles overlapping the joins it's probably more than sturdy enough.
Tuning the keys is a bit of a job in itself, spindle sander a must imo and despite all the info I found saying to scallop with a bandsaw first that just always seemed a bit gung ho for me.
sometimewoodworker
Established Member
sorry to say but that seems like a really really bad idea beautifully exicuted.
There are good reasons why every bandsaw I ever seen or heard of has guide blocks under the table, they allow sawdust to drop through the table and for it to drop away or for a little to accumulate on the blocks without effecting the cut.
What problems are they going to solve?
RichardG
If at first you don’t succeed have a cup of tea.
Elm bowl 200mm diameter. Rough turned wet, dried and then finished using Satin Treatex.
Biggest learning point was to wet turn the mounting spigot as large as will fit it the jaws as by the time it had dried the resulting turned round spigot was only just gripped by the jaws and led to a rather small base.
Biggest learning point was to wet turn the mounting spigot as large as will fit it the jaws as by the time it had dried the resulting turned round spigot was only just gripped by the jaws and led to a rather small base.
Orraloon
Established Member
A very nice bowl. I think the small foot makes it look just right.
Regards
John
Regards
John
Phill05
Established Member
What was I thinking?
Cut out of a very hard Mahogany but not sure what family it is, so hard it does not need a finish on it.
And in the background is a very old tree turned to stone.
Cut out of a very hard Mahogany but not sure what family it is, so hard it does not need a finish on it.
And in the background is a very old tree turned to stone.
Yorkieguy
Established Member
A beautifully shaped bowl, skilfully turned and finished. The proportions look just right to my eyes, including the foot, and the external and internal curves have a smooth transition, and the wall thickness just right. No sanding marks, and no dimple or pip in the bottom either! The grain patterning is superb. Elm, like sycamore can often look bland, but I think that's the nicest bowl I've seen in a long time, and I've no doubt it would be a competition winner. Really well done!
David.
