Ensuring you are working with the resin at the correct temperatures is important,....not just the resin itself but the temperature of the environment as well. If it's too warm, it's a problem,....if it's too cold, it's a problem!
At the risk of teaching my grandmother how to suck eggs,....If you feel you are getting too much shrinkage, try placing your resin container in a warm water bath prior to the pour.....This thins the consistency of the resin slightly and should allow better penetration.
To check the depth of colour of your tint, try using a small transparent glass container and once you think you're happy with the colour, dip it into your mixed resin and you should be able to see how transparent the resin is.
Trying to get an accurate idea of the finished colour whilst the resin is in a big container will be difficult, but if the resin is in the small container, you will be able to see through the glass to the other side...
What's the depth of pour you're doing in one pour...? Is it more than 25mm...?
Just in case you haven't seen this, it may be useful......
The GlassCast range of resins, in common with all epoxies, generate heat as part of the curing process. The amount of time the mixed resin can spend in the pot, as well as the maximum depth it can be poured at, will vary depending on the ambient temperature.
For best results, we recommend working in a consistent room temperature of 18-20°C. GlassCast can be used in temperatures from 15 to 25°C but higher temperatures will reduce the pot-life and the maximum pour-depth of the resin significantly, as shown in the table below.
Ambient Temperature | 15°C (minimum) | 20°C (recommended) | 25°C (maximum) |
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Maximum Time in Pot (Pot Life) | 80 mins | 60 mins | 40 mins |
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Maximum Pour Depth into a thin walled mould (silicone/plastic) | 50mm | 40mm | 30mm |
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Maximum Pour Depth into wood or an insulating mould | 25mm | 25mm | 18mm |
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Initial Cure | 96 hrs | 72 hrs | 48 hrs |
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