Post a photo of the last thing you made
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Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)
Established Member
My wife asked for bedside tables for a guest bedroom, stipulating Mid Century Modern for a clean, uncluttered look. I knocked these out on a three-day weekend, which was made possible by using pre-made panels in Merbau and mitred joinery (reinforced with biscuits). The legs were turned from Maple scraps, and all stained to match the Jarrah drawer fronts. At least I got to make proper dovetailed drawers 
One case partially stained …
Regards from Perth
Derek
One case partially stained …
Regards from Perth
Derek
Kittyhawk
Established Member
Nice work, Aussie neighbour!
I see you also have a leg vice. Is it Jarrah? I made mine out of some New Guinea hardwood, the front being 35mm thick but it still bends a bit when I crank it up. Love to see a pic or two of it if you get a chance. .
Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)
Established Member
Hi cousin KH!
My Roubo bench, built about 8 or 9 years ago, has a Jarrah base and European Oak top. The leg vise has a wooden screw and chain drive, and the tail vise is a Benchcrafted wagon vise. The underbench cabinet was built in the past few months ...
A lot of tools have since been transferred to the drawers ...
A lot of french fitted tools ...
Build alongs for the underbench cabinet, as well as many furniture builds, is here: Furniture
Details of the leg vise and chain drive is here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/AYSLegViseChainAdjuster.html
Regards from Perth
Derek
My Roubo bench, built about 8 or 9 years ago, has a Jarrah base and European Oak top. The leg vise has a wooden screw and chain drive, and the tail vise is a Benchcrafted wagon vise. The underbench cabinet was built in the past few months ...
A lot of tools have since been transferred to the drawers ...
A lot of french fitted tools ...
Build alongs for the underbench cabinet, as well as many furniture builds, is here: Furniture
Details of the leg vise and chain drive is here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/AYSLegViseChainAdjuster.html
Regards from Perth
Derek
barkhousewoodworks
Member
Hi folks. I’m new to ukworkshop so I’ve probably added my first post in the wrong place. It’s supposed to be in ‘the last thing I made’ Anyway, here’s my oak and sapele tool carry box. Let me know what you think
Oraclebhoy
Established Member
Think I’m starting to find my feet.
Yes it’s only a simple pine table but, it’s square, it’s flat, it has tapered legs (should have taken more off and done two sides of the legs), it’s solid (pocket hole screws) and my round over bit is getting to see some action.
Yes it’s only a simple pine table but, it’s square, it’s flat, it has tapered legs (should have taken more off and done two sides of the legs), it’s solid (pocket hole screws) and my round over bit is getting to see some action.
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Cabinetman
Established Member
Welcome, yes you’re in the right place and you’ve started off well with a photo of work. It certainly appears to be nicely made if a little unconventional – nothing wrong with that. It’s possible that the shortgrain on the handle might cause a problem if knocked. Is there a dovetail between the sides and the ends?IanHi folks. I’m new to ukworkshop so I’ve probably added my first post in the wrong place. It’s supposed to be in ‘the last thing I made’ Anyway, here’s my oak and sapele tool carry box. Let me know what you think
Oraclebhoy
Established Member
Love the design.Hi folks. I’m new to ukworkshop so I’ve probably added my first post in the wrong place. It’s supposed to be in ‘the last thing I made’ Anyway, here’s my oak and sapele tool carry box. Let me know what you think
How did you do the logo? Is that printed or burnt in?
The handle, are the dowels wedges or are the glued in?
Hallelujahal
Established Member
barkhousewoodworks
Member
Hi, I have a branding iron, the type you heat with a blowtorch, not electric. I’ve discovered that if I unscrew the wooden handle I can heat it up then put it in my pillar drill and lower it down onto the workpiece and it will give a really even pressure. The length of the metal shaft means you can do it without burning your fingers! Seems to work well and I get really good detail. I cut the handle shape with a jigsaw and finished it with a sanding drum on the pillar drill. The dowels are a tight fit but I did smear some Titebond into the holes and onto the dowels just to be sure they wouldn’t work free, at least for a long time anyway. Thanks for the interest and if you have any more questions please ask. If there is a downside to the carrier it would be the weight. It’s very heavy but I think it’s a nice thing and I wanted something that would stand the test of time and something that one of my children might use when I’ve got to the great workshop in the sky!
Seaside Donkey
Established Member
My sister asked me to make a keepsake box for one of her Grandkids.
Carcass is Black Walnut, which was lovely to work with. Lid is Zebrano, which looks right nice but is an absolute pig to work with.
The bottom is flock lined and I've oiled the inside as well as the outside.
The eagle eyed will notice that the marking out for the dovetails was a bit haphazard. That was due to bad eyesight so not able to see my own marks properly on the Black Walnut. I've bought a white pencil for next time.
My sister wanted her Grandaughter's name on the box but after experimenting with pyrography, router stencils and clip carving I bottled it. Pyrography and routed letters just didn't look right. Clip carving turned out to be a lot harder than expected and I just couldn't bring myself to ruin that walnut with my clumsy efforts.
Carcass is Black Walnut, which was lovely to work with. Lid is Zebrano, which looks right nice but is an absolute pig to work with.
The bottom is flock lined and I've oiled the inside as well as the outside.
The eagle eyed will notice that the marking out for the dovetails was a bit haphazard. That was due to bad eyesight so not able to see my own marks properly on the Black Walnut. I've bought a white pencil for next time.
My sister wanted her Grandaughter's name on the box but after experimenting with pyrography, router stencils and clip carving I bottled it. Pyrography and routed letters just didn't look right. Clip carving turned out to be a lot harder than expected and I just couldn't bring myself to ruin that walnut with my clumsy efforts.
Phil Pascoe
Established Member
Search for dovetail marking with blue tape - Derek Cohen iirc.
Cabinetman
Established Member
Well I’ve googled it and not found anything, what is clip carving please? I taught myself to carve letters in a couple of hours with a V chisel, it’s quite simple once you get going , but I think it’s something to be done before you make the box just in case you make a Horlicks of it ha ha Ian
fezman
Established Member
another big +1 for the blue tape trick for dovetails and Yes Phil it was Derek - he explains it here on his website. http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/HalfblindDovetailsinJarrah.html
Seaside Donkey
Established Member
Phil Pascoe
Established Member
I tended to make them with that profile, but most people who handled them preferred them slimmer.
Taylor's kit?
The first two were slimmer, I deliberately made this thicker.
Think this kit was CS Crafts, Blank as well or could've been Axi - I have quite a few bits from both.
Regards
Padster
RichardG
If at first you don’t succeed have a cup of tea.
Made from some oak branches that I saved from the fire wood basket. Noticed they had some spalting and wanted to use this and the centre of the wood for effect. No idea how long they’ll last… Did the small boxes first and then thought they’d make nice mushrooms. All different thicknesses to see which ones survive and to try and work out which shape I prefer.
