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iNewbie":289ff7ha said:
woodenstuart":289ff7ha said:
I want the same wheels as I had on my 70's board

Get some new bearings in 'em though, eh? :)

Ahh, some OJ Superjuice and some Lazer trucks. Those were the days - not sure my knee could take it these days...

Kyrptonics have remade their wheels from the good ole days (for ref, my 70's board is older than me as I'm 80's stock), so thats a start, and yes new bearings as the current ones are solid
 
Northern Cyprus but close enough I suppose! Thank you to everyone for the kind words. Mrs. memzey is also quite pleased and may have a few more "in doors" commissions for me over the coming months. This is a big step forward after the abhorrent shelf episode of a year or so ago but the less said about that the better....
 
memzey":933p8048 said:
Northern Cyprus but close enough I suppose! Thank you to everyone for the kind words. Mrs. memzey is also quite pleased and may have a few more "in doors" commissions for me over the coming months. This is a big step forward after the abhorrent shelf episode of a year or so ago but the less said about that the better....


Nice. Did you do any build pictures? I'm new to all this so seeing how others have done things is always helpful. :D
 
Hi SC.

Sorry no build pictures as I was working to a deadline- Mrs. m must not be disappointed! The joinery is a combination of rebates, housings and pocket screws - not up to the standards of many on here but ambitious enough for me at this stage of my journey!
 
Nelsun":jdqzrak8 said:
Very nice indeed. Love the spalted oak!

I have to agree, spalted oak has more character than normal oak.

can all woods species get spalting?
 
made my second dovetail box, I saved the best bits of clear pine (redwood) for this one.

The only problem now is the lid has bloody cupped at the front, creating a gap that wasn't there originally, I also went the extra mile and polished the brass hinges this time, makes a huge difference. Do you think it's worth planing the inside of the lid to flatten it?
 

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Nice box thetyreman, those dovetails look excellent! And I like [perhaps in the minority] that you haven't left knife marks where you marked out.
Re. the lid, if it was me, I'd leave it for a week or two until the lid stops moving before you take it off and re-flatten it.
 
Nice box tireman
Did you decide about the grain orientation that way for aesthetics ?
I would never choose to do that, as those growth rings always want to flatten out,
And two points of contact is always more structurally sound than a single see saw effect


I think it's time you got some nice wood to match your skills.
I don't think that lid will ever stop moving
 
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This tiny trinket box was made out of the tiny bit I had as an offcut. I had a circluar brass hinge and a magnifying glass which fitted very nicely as a lid. I painted a bluebird design on the lid.

Btw if anyone has or knows where I can get anymore of these hinges please let me know. These came with my lathe and am keen to get a few more.
 
Ttrees":ourw8mud said:
Nice box tireman
Did you decide about the grain orientation that way for aesthetics ?
I would never choose to do that, as those growth rings always want to flatten out,
And two points of contact is always more structurally sound than a single see saw effect


I think it's time you got some nice wood to match your skills.
I don't think that lid will ever stop moving

yes I chose it for aesthetics.

what do you mean by two points of contact? can you explain, sorry I don't quite understand that part.
 
thetyreman":126fai2f said:
yes I chose it for aesthetics.

what do you mean by two points of contact? can you explain, sorry I don't quite understand that part.
I meant that your lid is see sawing, Say if you made a big box and had the same effect...it might strain your hinges if
you slammed the lid closed ....see-saw effect if you will .
The end grain lines always tells the future movement of the timber ...these end grain lines will always want to flatten out,
changing that sad face end grain shape on your lid to a sort of flatter horizontal shape, thus cupping your lid .
It is generally easier to deal with the wood cupping side down as their is two points of contact, and you can
have less faffing about than dealing with something that will see-saw with just one point of contact in the middle.
Tom
 
It's a lovely box. Could always take the lid off it and put some breadboard ends on it to try to keep it from cupping further...
 
Hello,

Tyreman, joinery grade redwood is never going to be dry enough to make things like this from when first bought. You must prepare everything slightly oversize and over thickness, sticker everything in an indoor environment (not the shed!) and leave until there is no trace of movement. It might take a month for joinery stuff, it is not seasoned as well as furniture grade stuff. Reduce to final dimensions and then make your box. It might sound like a faff, but this is what high quality makers always do, there is no other way to be sure problems don't happen. If you don't, it is a lottery otherwise. And to be honest, an unrestrained solid top like this should always be made from quarter sawn stuff. It is hard to find quartered stock in batches of joinery grade redwood, but cupping will always happen with flatsawn stock to some degree. The degree of cupping is in effect doubled as well, when hinged on one side; all the movement appears at the front. Your work is worth the extra effort, I'm sure you'll agree; there is nothing worse than spending time on a job, to have something as simple as a board cupping, to upset you. But don't think these things are beyond control; they aren't, but you need to do what is necessary. Incidentally, that box might just be narrow enough to fix a solid bottom on, but that should be quartered too, and bone dry. Otherwise it might start to crack when it shrinks a bit. Definitely don't go wider for solid bottoms, either.

Mike.
 
finished a pair of stools today, been working on them for a week or two:
 

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Lovely stools, Tyreman =D>

I like your box too. Like monkeybiter says, the lid should be stable enough after a week or two indoors to flatten. I've made similar sized dovetail boxes with a solid bottom; at this scale there isn't much cross-grain movement to worry about.
 

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