Post a photo of the last thing you made

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Lovely job. Have you made the shuttering?
Thanks Not properly sorted out the shuttering yet. Am going to suspend a plastic barrel down the well shaft to form the inner edge. T he outer edge will be shuttering ply forming a square and then adapted to make an octagon. There's a lot of loose debris to the depth of about a foot at the top of the well ,so the barrel should help stop this falling down the well......... Niall
 
Been experimenting with segmented mug. Niece seen my first attempt and wanted one for herself.......

First one is oak then her name burnt into it, second one is Iroko with thin strips of oak. Think some more are on the cards.


mug 1.jpg
 
I'm having new windows put in and for the inside sills they ask if i want the plastic or mahogany.

Would that be the mahogany that looks nothing like mahogany, but bears a striking resemblance to red meranti I ask :LOL:
Or the lesser known variety meranti balsa pinky but much lighter 😄😄
 
Lovely job. Can you describe how you made them?
Brian
I experimented with dimensions and spacing in Sketchup and made a dummy piece to confirm the measurements worked in reality.
Screenshot 2023-01-24 104747.jpg
The holes are 5mm deep and 6mm diameter and were drilled using a drill press and some blocks to position the dominos. All the "bottom left" holes were drilled, then the blocks moved for the "bottom right" etc. For each setting of the blocks I used a dummy domino piece to get the location accurate since even 1/2 mm inaccuracy shows.
PXL_20230124_102353794.jpg
The wenge dots were cut from a 6mm dowel made using a dowel plate.
PXL_20230110_155804743.jpgPXL_20230110_172216793.jpg

The dividers were just a saw kerf in a quick and dirty 90deg "mitre" box
PXL_20230124_102309536.jpg

and a sliver of wenge
PXL_20230112_160305106.jpgPXL_20230112_162040479.jpg

planed to the right thickness in a DIY thicknesser.
PXL_20230124_102255043.jpg
I hope that helps
 
And now for something at the other end of the spectrum, a composting area made from pallets.
My lovely wife is happy and so am I as all timber was free, including the long lengths that tie everything together. They came from a pallet that a 3m oak work surface was delivered on. I took some advice and have driven lengths of 3 x 1 1/2 into the ground on the front corners to stop the bays splaying out.

Colin
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0226-1600.jpg
    IMG_0226-1600.jpg
    404.5 KB
  • IMG_0227-1600.jpg
    IMG_0227-1600.jpg
    555.8 KB
  • IMG_0228-1600.jpg
    IMG_0228-1600.jpg
    519.6 KB
  • IMG_0229-1600.jpg
    IMG_0229-1600.jpg
    570.2 KB
The last thing that I've made is this gate in English oak. The final picture shows the ancient softwood gate that it replaced. The new gate is slightly higher and square at the top, which is intended to stop the local cats from jumping over it! I like cats, but over many years they have damaged the gate as they clawed their way up and over it. The new gate also features a cap to protect the end-grain from water ingress.

I purchased the timber from a Wood Fair at Ickworth House, at National Trust estate near Bury St. Edmunds, Suffolk, UK. The estate sells its timber to the public over 2 days each year and this was the first year I have attended. There was a variety of English timber on offer and I purchased 3 oak boards 2400 x 300 x 25mm and another board that was about 30mm thick and just long enough to make the rails (without thru-tenons!). I already had the oak for the stiles. Originally it was my plan to use 5 oak planks to face the door and to have thru-tenons on the rails plus diagonal braces, but I had to compromise on the rails (haunched tenons, about 12 mm short at each end) and during construction I decided the extra rigidity of the 2 broad facing boards made diagonal braces redundant; time will tell if this was the correct decision.

The frame was the most challenging part of the project with a lot of fettling to get the joints tight, which I managed without any splits. The frame then was checked for square (all good) glued and clamped; the capping piece is not structural and was glued in place at the end with 2 dowels. The boards were screwed to the frame with brass 11/4" No 8 woodscrews, set in deep, then plugged and trimmed flush. After final sanding the gate was treated with OSMO UV 410 Protection Oil clear satin finish. The overall dimensions are 1550 x 905 + cap. Installing the door furniture and hanging the gate was another adventure that took a full day to complete.

This is the most ambitious project I've undertaken for many decades and was very enjoyable. A lot of the work was done using hand tools, including most of the stock preparation and finishing. I hope you agree the new gate is a big improvement, it remains to be seen whether the local cats can raise their game to the new challenge.


View attachment 120858View attachment 120860View attachment 120861View attachment 120864View attachment 120865View attachment 120866
 
Back
Top