Plunge router guide rail adaptor

[Curval]

This may be resolved very simply by someone telling me I'm doing something wrong.

I recently got an Elu 177 router (for £15!) and whilst I've used palm routers for chamfering I've not actually cut channels into stuff before and have had a bit of difficulty. I'm using a dovetail cutter to cut some channels into some plywood so I can use track clamps in it. I've been clamping a straight edge on it then running the router base along that edge - but I've found that there ends up being some uneven bits in the channels which I attribute to my technique.

I've seen that one can get guide rail adaptors for lots of trim routers, and there's one Triton model that seems to be for a plunge router. I've also seen a Powertec model suitable for attachment to any plunge router but I can't find it for sale in the UK. I figured a guide rail adaptor would solve my problem - is anyone aware of one that would be suitable for my situation? Or am I clearly making some newbie mistake that is causing the problem?

 

[Inspector]

Before you spend on other jigs and things. Use a straight or spiral up cutting bit to cut a groove close to the opening size you want to end up with. Then switch over to the dovetail bit without moving your straight edge and recut.

I think the reason you are not getting clean or straight cuts is the dovetail bit can't easily clear the chips. By making a groove first you leave less for the dovetail bit to remove and the chips clear more easily.

Pete

 

[Doug71]

If when making the cut the router is between you and the straightedge work from left to right, this should help the router push itself towards the straightedge. If you go right to left the router will be trying to push away from the straightedge.

If the straightedge is between you and the router work right to left.

Hope that makes sense.

 

[Sideways]

Great advice from Pete.
I did a similar job in order to fit some UJK T track that has a dovetail profile on the outside to stop it being pulled out. I routed the way he describes and it works. In my case I needed 2 passes with the dovetail cutter after the straight bit to cut the dovetail slot to the width I needed. It was essential these were parallel so I used the router fence (actually 2, one each side pinching the stock) rather than a straightedge and was v careful when I reset it in order to get a nice tight dovetailed slot.

 

[Ollie78]

Make up a jig with 2 strips of plywood or mdf. Make the gap between them the same width as the routers base. Fix them together with a shorter bit of ply at each end.
If you put one brace on top and the other underneath (on opposite ends if you see what I mean) , make sure they are exactly 90 degrees you can use them to register a square line from an edge as well. This can be used for all sorts after.

Easy and basically free.

I have a guide rail adaptor for a festool rail and router but didn`t find it particularly secure in use, it works but the method above is better its well supported on each side, like a slab flattening jig.

Also as someone said pre cut the track slot with a smaller router bit which helps with clearance and extraction, but better if you have 2 routers or its a lot of bit changing.

Ollie

 

[Curval]

Good advice here, thank you all. I had not cut an initial slot so I will try that, and I was also going right to left with the router between me and the edge.

 

[ChaiLatte]

I do not think it has been mentioned so far but check/measure/confirm that the edge of the router base you are using as a reference surface is concentric or equidistant from the rotational centre of the cutter.

Consider a worst case: you have a circular base on the router, which is not quite circular and it is not fixed concentric with the cutter.

 

[Curval]

I do not think it has been mentioned so far but check/measure/confirm that the edge of the router base you are using as a reference surface is concentric or equidistant from the rotational centre of the cutter.

Consider a worst case: you have a circular base on the router, which is not quite circular and it is not fixed concentric with the cutter.

I think that's less likely in this instance since I was keeping it oriented the same way and on one attempt I did make an entirely straight and even cut. I think it's me at fault.

 

[MikeJhn]

As Pete says above, most new router uses tend to think they can cut or grove in one pass, grove first then under cut.

 

[Spectric]

Make up a jig with 2 strips of plywood or mdf. Make the gap between them the same width as the routers base

or the width of a guide bush and ensure the bush has been centred using something like

https://www.wealdentool.com/cgi-bin...ine_Catalogue_Alignment_Cone_689.html#aSTP015

Now any eccentricities in the base are overcome.

A trim router is not that powerful, so

By making a groove first you leave less for the dovetail bit to remove and the chips clear more easily.

this will become normal practice once you get used to using routers, even with large 1/2 routers taking several cuts will deliver a cleaner finish.

I'm using a dovetail cutter to cut some channels into some plywood so I can use track clamps in it.

This might not be the best material, you have not said what the intended purpose of these tracks is but for a lot of applications using moisture resistant MDF is the better material rather than ply and for me I gave up with the aluminium tracks in favour of microjig clamps and slots which are far more versatile and you find so many other uses for including the odd one off jig.

Take a look at this

 

[Spectric]

If you are looking at bases and ways to use the router with a rail then look at

https://archive2022.fctools.co.uk/product-category/accessories