Plugging existing hinge holes in MDF

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I use the Trend centering drills and think the one I use most is the middle sized one which is 7/64", the bits are extra long though so standard bits won't fit, I get the proper Trend ones, probably different for other brands.
Been there.i bought some ' snappy 'drill replacements from Axminster and they were too short. Found some extra long bits on amazon for buttons .There are different size centre drill guides of course so always measure before buying the drills.
 
You’re most welcome and yes they are a great help in getting the 1st screw i central . As for your injury months to heal and minutes to undo all that recovery . Don’t forget a few picks of your work 🤗🤗
First three done, I'm only an amateur so don't be too harsh. First couple I did were a built in wardrobe so fairly easy, I've packed the hinges slightly to even up the gaps a little. The right hand side is about 8mm out of plumb.
Bathroom one was straight forward but I'm a bit disappointed with the lock rebate, I struggled to avoid a couple of bits of tear out, just a bit clumsy I think. I might make a jig for the router for the others. Not so easy to hide when it's not painted 😕.
 

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First three done, I'm only an amateur so don't be too harsh. First couple I did were a built in wardrobe so fairly easy, I've packed the hinges slightly to even up the gaps a little. The right hand side is about 8mm out of plumb.
Bathroom one was straight forward but I'm a bit disappointed with the lock rebate, I struggled to avoid a couple of bits of tear out, just a bit clumsy I think. I might make a jig for the router for the others. Not so easy to hide when it's not painted 😕.
Don’t beat yourself up- you have done well as they look good , as long as they close without any resistance evenly then don’t worry about a few splinters and chips - there are plenty of fillers that can take care of that ( I prefer the dry powder mixed with water based stain ) test on a bit of card untill you get the right shade.. well done 👍
 
They look great (y)

Not sure how you did the cut out for the lock but if just doing the odd one I would use a marking gauge to score a couple of lines for the sides and use a Stanley knife to score lines for the top and bottom. You can then freehand route more or less to the lines and use a chisel for the last mill or so, if you chisel along the scored line it should hopefully end up nice and straight. To be fair sometimes the grain of the edging laths can be really gnarly and awful to work on.

If you are going to make a jig for the latches here's a simple one from Bradshaw joinery.

 
For one-offs, I like to scribe the rebate for the fore-end/faceplate first. I screw the faceplate to the door, then scribe around it with a stanley knife. Then I cut the mortice for the lock body, and finally chop out the shallow rebate for the fore-end.

Having the screw holes for the faceplate drilled early one means you won't accidentally overcut the mortice and have nothing to screw the lock into... DAMHIK!
 

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