Planing hard maple end grain?

[Paul Chapman]

In my experience, preferences between different planes from the leading makers is a very personal thing and I would always advise that, whenever possible, you try (or at least handle) before you buy.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Paul Kierstead]

I'd probably use a router riding on a sled supported by a couple of parallel rails temporarily fixed to the sides of the block

I dunno. A router has an awfully small blade to be doing a large surface area, and I have found them poor for end grain.

 

[ydb1md]

Definitely wet the end grain -- it always makes it easier. I use either water or camelia oil. Tried turpentine but it stinks.

You could also use mineral oil as this is a butcher block after all. :wink:

 

[Anonymous]

I'd use a low angle smoother for that job -probably the LV over the LN as it is heavier

 

[IanW]

.........I don't like Norris style adjusters. For me, they look like an elegant engineering solution that just doesn't deliver.......

I'm in your church too. 'Twas a crude, strange thing Mr. Bailey dreamed up, but it works! Can't say the same about the 'orrible, over-sensitive thing on my A5 - have long ago given up trying to do the lateral adjustments with the hardware provided - a few taps with a small brass hammer is quicker and mor precise!
Cheers, IW.

 

[Chris Knight]

IIRC, the Norris adjuster adds the movement between the two sets of thread. Some modern adjusters are designed to be subtractive which makes them much more precise although they still have the same characteristic of combining lateral adjustments with blade extension - I don't find this to be any great hardship personally. I do agree though that a few hammer taps are just as good as an adjuster.