Planes

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A No.8 is largest - nowadays you don't tend to see much smaller than a No.4. Faithful has not the best of reputations.
I suspect you wouldn't get far jointing a 2.4m board with either - a No.4 is too short, an electric planer too uncontrolable and unpredictable. If you have to ask what's best to it with you'll struggle however you try to do it - that's a job experienced people would struggle to do well unless doing it straight off a good, large machine. If you're getting one general purpose plane, get a No.5 or a No.5 1/2 (my choice) - it's the best size for an all rounder.
 
Yes the numbers on Stanley, Record, Clifton and Lie Nielsen planes do get bigger as the numbers go up, unless you go look for odd ones which won't be mentioned
in the reasonably priced common bench planes category.
I'm not too familiar with the old American numbering system the likes of Millers falls or Sargent etc...
The common metal plane designs go back to Stanley's patent , or Lenoard Bailey's to be more precise, that's why you see Bailey cast into the Stanley planes, as in Stanley Bailey ...
Everyone else used the Stanley's numbering system.
And referring to size in order of appearance, the common ones you will see will be...
a number 2 or should I say no.2 (rare)...a no. 3 little thing like a two handed block plane, a no.4 wee bit wider and longer, a no.4 1/2 same width as the 5 1/2,
A no.5 a bit longer than the 4 and still same width as the number 4.
no.5 1/2, wider and a bit longer, no.6 same width but a wee bit longer, no.7 same width but a wee bit longer
and a number 8 wider again and longer.

I like and would get a Stanley Bailey or Record no. 5 1/2 if I were you... with a thick sole casting and not with the x shape webbing
on the castings, just a wee bit older than those ones, but not seen as any different price wise.
Its capable of everything more comfortably IMO

Look on eBay but make sure the pics are good so there's no miniature hairline cracks... not that common
If you drop these cast iron planes they will normally break at the mouth and up the cheek.
Or go for a refurbished one from the likes of Tooltique or similar like Old tools
Theirs a few websites like these, the price is about twice the buy it now on eBay prices
Good luck
Tom
 
#5 1/2 is too wide and heavy for some one starting out. Stick to a #5.

To the OP, the planes go up in length by number, but the "1/2" sizes also increase in width over the same number, so #4 1/2 is wider and heavier than a #4, and a #5 1/2 is wider and heavier than a #5.

#1 and #2 are tiny planes, bout the size of a block plane, and only for collectors.

The two most common smoothers are the #3 and #4. These are about 9" long. The #3 is a little narrower (1 3/4" wide blade) than the #4 (2" wide blade). I prefer a #3 for myself, and I think it would be a better choice - if you can find one! - than a #4 for small work (which you said was your focus).

Then the #5 and #5 1/2 are both jack planes, and about 15" in length.

The #6 is about 18". This is often an alternative to a #5 1/2, as an all rounder. David Charlesworth, on this forum, teacher extraordinaire, will rave about the #5 1/2. Of course, he's a nutter :)

The #7 (at 22") and #8 (at 24") are both jointers. Keep in mind that these are full size jointers for edging long boards, and a #5 makes a great jointer for small work.

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
#5 1/2 is too wide and heavy for some one starting out ............
Is of course Derek's opinion. I managed perfectly well for about fifteen years with only one of them from the age of thirteen. The important thing is they are both longer than a No.4 - that's why they are better all rounders, and as one of the experts here (P.Sefton?) pointed out they are easier to learn with as there is more length in front of the mouth so making starting at the end of a board easier.
 
A number 04 plane has a couple of advantages. Because it's relatively light it's useful for more delicate planing jobs, like levelling the sawn off edges of a box,
Box-Making,-No-4-Plane-03.jpg


In this particular example the workpiece is prone to tear out, so a closely set cap iron on an 04 plane is an efficient way of getting quality results while working right around the rough sawn edge,
Box-Making,-No-4-Plane-04.jpg


Another benefit of the 04 is if you're a site joiner, shopfitter, boatbuilder, or anyone else who has to carry their tools to the job. Humping tools up ladders or flights of stairs soon adds appeal to smaller and lighter tools! I believe Paul Sellers fell into this category, and after many years of using only an 04 he'll have found ways of making the tool do whatever he needs.

But for a bench based woodworker the weight of the 04 is less of an advantage. And for the beginner the 04 has one huge negative. This photo shows an 04 next to an 05,
Planes-4vs5.jpg


It's clear that the 05 provides a lot more sole length ahead of the cutting edge than the 04. Until you've got a fair bit of experience under your belt this will translate into much cleaner starts to the planing cut. I regularly see beginners (and even intermediate woodworkers) making a bit of a mess when starting the cut, with the back end of the plane drooping fractionally which makes it impossible to get a clean, straight result. It's no co-incidence that when schools taught woodworking they inevitably used 05 planes, they're just easier and more versatile.

But once you've elected to go for the 05 length, you still have the question of the 05 and 05 1/2 for the width. Personally I prefer the 05 1/2, but it's not something I'd die in a ditch over. I find the extra heft of the 05 1/2 makes for better shooting, and that little bit of extra width is useful for jobs like edge planing doors. But in truth I'd be confident of getting the job done with either an 05 or an 05 1/2.

Here are four options in this length category,
Planes,-4-Jacks.jpg


It's interesting to look at the weight. The traditional wooden jack comes in at 2080g, hardly any different to the 05 at 2150g, which in turn isn't all that much lighter than the 05 1/2 at 2550g. But interestingly the real outlier is the Lie Nielsen 05 1/2 at 3270g. In use that really is the odd one out in weight terms, and it's useful to note just how much heavier some premium planes can be.

But it's easy to waste a lot of time fretting unduly over the choice of planes. With enough skill and experience you can get excellent results from almost any plane, however it's also true that without that skill and experience there's no plane that will magically turn you into a master hand tool worker.

The workshop where I trained had the tradition of only using 07 bench planes. That's what you used for absolutely everything, from big chunky stuff like this,
Oak-Dining-Table.jpg


Through to delicate, fussy little details like this,
Book-Rest-05.jpg


So it's probably true to say that instead of anguishing over this plane or that, you'd be better off just getting stuck in and use whatever tool you happen to own, because at the end of the day skill and experience will trump tool choice very time!
 

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custard":r3koappn said:
........So it's probably true to say that instead of anguishing over this plane or that, you'd be better off just getting stuck in and use whatever tool you happen to own, because at the end of the day skill and experience will trump tool choice very time!

Absobloodylutely. This ought to be in everyone's signature here.
 
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