Planes

[morpheus83uk]

Hello,

I am looking at getting a couple of planes to remove bits of stock once cut where needed. I am wondering what to look for? I am going to be removing some edging and possibly some of the face boards. These are only small pieces of work currently but I would like something which would last and be suitable for larger pieces of work.

I have had a look around and there are lots of different planes and I am wondering what would be suitable? Or even what the differences are between them?

I do have an electric plane which was given to me but its a little too aggressive and not very good for small pieces of work.

All suggestions welcome.

Thanks

James

 

[Phil Pascoe]

stanley-4-1-2-plane-t113953.html

 

[Tasky]

Being still a newbie myself, I'll just offer this as a quick beginner's insight:

The cheapest and easiest will probably be a No4 and No5, either Stanley or Record brand. Old style, rather than the brand new things in B&Q, that is...
There's also the 4½ and a 5½ which are the same things, just a bit wider and heavier. If you can, try both out and see if you feel a preference for one or t'other.

You can get older wooden ones and you can get newer fancy ones, but each has its own pros and cons. But people will be the most familiar with the old Record and Stanleys, so will be able to best advise you through those. You can always sell them on later, if you decide to go for another type.

Differences... The 5 has a longer sole, which is better for flattening long lengths and bigger boards. This is often called a Fore plane, as it's the first plane you use on your wood, and it's used for getting it to size. It's also called a Jack plane, as in Jack-Of-All-Trades, because it can also do the job of most other planes. Indeed, several notable woodworkers greatly favour the 5 (or 5½) and some of those only use this one plane, even on small work.
Using it as a Fore plane means putting in a heavily cambered cutting iron, to remove big thick shavings. But you can make small alterations and tweak the settings to make it an effective Jointer, Smoother or whatever else you like.

There are other planes that do better at more specific tasks (the big, long No7 No8 or No9 Jointer planes for example), but the 5 will do a bit of everything.

The 4 tends to be best at final smoothing and shaving off teeny fractions of a thousandth. This is mainly because it's small and light. I can hold mine in one hand and shave the sharp corners off the underside of a table, no problem. Often woodworkers like to have several planes, all set up for specific tasks and so having just a separate Smoother plane works really well.
But saying that, you can set most planes up for different things and many woodworkers only ever buy a No4. It obviously won't joint anywhere near as well as a No7, for example, but many people have done well enough with it, nonetheless. The main advantage is the light weight and smaller size.

So yeah - Most people start with a 4, a 5, or both.
I got a 4½ to start with, and then added a 4 and 5, with plans for a 7 when I have the cash.

 

[gjhimages]

Hello,

I am looking at getting a couple of planes to remove bits of stock once cut where needed. I am wondering what to look for? I am going to be removing some edging and possibly some of the face boards. These are only small pieces of work currently but I would like something which would last and be suitable for larger pieces of work.

I have had a look around and there are lots of different planes and I am wondering what would be suitable? Or even what the differences are between them?

I do have an electric plane which was given to me but its a little too aggressive and not very good for small pieces of work.

All suggestions welcome.

Thanks

James

James
I have a Stanley No4 surplus to requirements
It could be yours for nowt
I am near Bury if it’s of interest
Gary

 

[Steve Maskery]

I've never really seen the point of a No. 4, TBH. Probably because my Dad had a No. 5 as his go-to, and I have that now, so it's my go-to now. I no longer have my Stanley No. 4, but I do have a Veritas equivalent, and I can't remember the last time I picked it up. I was discussing it at the Axi day last week. I think I'm going to grind the blade to a high angle and keep it for difficult work.
I have a No. 7 for shooting and a LA Lie-Nielsen block plane for small work and I don't feel in any way under-resourced.
AndyT, on the other hand...

 

[AndyT]

... has quite a few different planes.

But if I were advising the OP I'd say that the plane Phil linked to is a bargain, Gary's no 4 is a BARGAIN and Tasky's advice is sound.

Personally, I started with a Stanley no 4 which I still use and that or a 5 can be all that many normal people need.

 

[bridger]

If you're working small pieces of wood start with a block plane. When you are ready to work larger pieces get a larger plane. The block will remain useful.

 

[MikeG.]

I've never really seen the point of a No. 4, TBH........

Hmm..............I've never seen the point of anything other than a No. 4. It's all I used for over 30 years, doing all my stock preparation from sawn timber with it, and the final smoothing, plus everything in between. The only thing it's pretty useless at is working on a shooting board.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Different folks, different strokes, eh, Mike? We use what works for us.
I just find a No. 4 uncomfortable in the hand, that's all.

 

[MikeG.]

Different folks, different strokes, eh, Mike? We use what works for us.

Absolutely, Steve. Couldn't agree more.

I just find a No. 4 uncomfortable in the hand, that's all.

I used to as well, but I made a fatter handle for mine, and now have room for the three fingers comfortably.

 

[John15]

A second-hand Stanley or Record No.4 or 5 from Ebay or the equivalent new from Quanseng or similar are good for general work. Master these first and then move on to others if necessary.

John

 

[Ttrees]

A no.5 1/2 is my go to.
Get one with a thick sole casting (the base)

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Hello,

I am looking at getting a couple of planes to remove bits of stock once cut where needed. I am wondering what to look for? I am going to be removing some edging and possibly some of the face boards. These are only small pieces of work currently but I would like something which would last and be suitable for larger pieces of work.

I have had a look around and there are lots of different planes and I am wondering what would be suitable? Or even what the differences are between them?

I do have an electric plane which was given to me but its a little too aggressive and not very good for small pieces of work.

All suggestions welcome.

Thanks

James

Hi James

Bridger's suggestion of a block plane is sensible, and I echo this. The reason is that a small plane will be easier to learn on, and it is suitable for edges of boards, which are narrow.

Traditionally, the Stanley #7 is the plane used for jointing edges, but you mentioned that the boards will be small and already machined. For small boards, I would instead get a Stanley #5, which may also be used as a smoother on the faces.

A block plane and a #5 will do very well for all your needs at present, and they will also be usable when you move to larger work.

For a block plane, either search of a vintage Stanley #60 1/2 or, if new, a LN #60 1\2 or Veritas DX60. There is a big difference in cost between the Stanley and the new planes, and it is up to you. They are all excellent planes.

Be mindful that modern Stanley planes are cr@p and will disappoint. They generally need lots of work to get right, and a beginner can cock this up. Only look out for pre-WWII planes. The trouble is knowing what to look for, and this is why the new planes by LN or Veritas are safer. Again, at a cost, but you are the one who can say what you are able to afford. Planes from these sources will not disappoint for your life time.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Sideways]

I've never really seen the point of a No. 4, TBH........

Hmm..............I've never seen the point of anything other than a No. 4. It's all I used for over 30 years, doing all my stock preparation from sawn timber with it, and the final smoothing, plus everything in between. The only thing it's pretty useless at is working on a shooting board.

Interestingly I got hold of an old #4 recently and enjoyed the research that let me date it to around 1957 or 58 (I think it was). It's old and the tote has been snapped but I can tell it is going to be more comfortable than I expected and a nice vintage tool with just a little more work.
I'm looking forward to using it.

 

[Ttrees]

There are plenty of old no.60 1/2 lemons out there with loads of problems....
Azimuth error, and non parallel mouth with sole causes the plane to lift if adjusted.
I would not go looking for one if I needed another block plane, although my LN 60 1/2 only gets used as a pencil parer
since I use the cap iron,
I have a no 3 for small jobs when the time comes, and for me its so much a surer bet I won't get tearout with it, than trying to set the mouth piece really tight but not dinging the cutter at the same time on the 60 1/2.
Maybe I'll find a use for it yet, but I ain't holding my breath.

Tom

 

[Phil Pascoe]

... Only look out for pre-WWII planes ...
Regards from Perth
Derek

I would query that. They may be the best, but perfectly good ones were made by Stanley and Marples for a decade or two or after that. I think the consensus is that Records were good for another decade after.

 

[woodbloke66]

... Only look out for pre-WWII planes ...
Regards from Perth
Derek

I would query that. They may be the best, but perfectly good ones were made by Stanley and Marples for a decade or two or after that. I think the consensus is that Records were good for another decade after.

So would I. Record planes really went down the pan in the 70's but those made in the 50's and 60's were still fine. Generally speaking, the older ones are better than any modern equivalents (ie; a modern Stanley No.4 compared to say, an older Record or Stanley) produced today, the downside with an older plane being that it may need some (or a lot) of refurbishment to get it up to snuff - Rob

 

[gjhimages]

Hello,

I am looking at getting a couple of planes to remove bits of stock once cut where needed. I am wondering what to look for? I am going to be removing some edging and possibly some of the face boards. These are only small pieces of work currently but I would like something which would last and be suitable for larger pieces of work.

I have had a look around and there are lots of different planes and I am wondering what would be suitable? Or even what the differences are between them?

I do have an electric plane which was given to me but its a little too aggressive and not very good for small pieces of work.

All suggestions welcome.

Thanks

James

James
I have a Stanley No4 surplus to requirements
It could be yours for nowt
I am near Bury if it’s of interest
Gary

James
Sorry just checked in shed
My dad's had a clear out and the plane cannot be found
Apologies
Gary

 

[David C]

I would recommend a no 5 rather than 4.

The front sole is significantly longer, making the start of the cut more certain.
David Charlesworth.

 

[morpheus83uk]

Thank you for all you advice. After reading this I am a little confused about the numbers. I think I understand but I just want to be clear. Is a no4 bigger or smaller than a no5? And then a no7 bigger or smaller than them?

If I had some warping in a few boards I presume that planing it would straighten the board?

I have also been pointed towards these and wondered what peoples thought were as a starter set?
Starter Plane Set

Would a no4 be ok to joint a 2.4 meter board? or would that be better with the electric planer?

Thanks

James