Planes with ridge body better or worse?

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donie

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When choosing hand planes general consensus is to get older ones or for some the older the better.

Would there be any benefit in the 70's to 80's (I think) planes with the rib down centre of base? would they be a more stable or stay flatter?

I know these also had the ogee frog with hollowed out face and possibly a poorer quality iron. If you were to swap over the less desirable parts would the rib base be a better plane?

Thanks
 
are you collecting planes or are you using them for work if you are using them for work get a new plane ie quangshen,veritas,lie nieson.
if you cant afford new planes any old stanley or record will do will need fettling because they are nearing 50 or 60 years old since a new record or stanley was any good.
if your collecting first read these links that i will put up http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan1.htm and https://woodandshop.com/identify-stanley-hand-plane-age-type-study/ also for record planes http://www.record-planes.com/
from my understanding anything from type 8 to type 15 stanley planes are the most usefull also the most desired i cant say much about the record planes
if for work i would recomend the quangshen planes bought from workshop heaven the ones from rutlands are not as good as ive experianced i started wodworking with stanley and record planes bought at carboots ebay ect but i got a couple of quangshen planes and the differance in quality and ease off use compared to the old stanley and records is incredible
i am going to replace all my old stanley and record planes with quangshen if i can for work and just keep my old record and stanley as antiques as that is what they are now
 
are you collecting planes or are you using them for work if you are using them for work get a new plane ie quangshen,veritas,lie nieson.
if you cant afford new planes any old stanley or record will do will need fettling because they are nearing 50 or 60 years old since a new record or stanley was any good.
if your collecting first read these links that i will put up http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan1.htm and https://woodandshop.com/identify-stanley-hand-plane-age-type-study/ also for record planes http://www.record-planes.com/
from my understanding anything from type 8 to type 15 stanley planes are the most usefull also the most desired i cant say much about the record planes
if for work i would recomend the quangshen planes bought from workshop heaven the ones from rutlands are not as good as ive experianced i started wodworking with stanley and record planes bought at carboots ebay ect but i got a couple of quangshen planes and the differance in quality and ease off use compared to the old stanley and records is incredible
i am going to replace all my old stanley and record planes with quangshen if i can for work and just keep my old record and stanley as antiques as that is what they are now

valid points, I'm mainly just wondering of the base with rib made in the 70's/80's is any better?
 
i cant really answear your question because most off my stanley bench planes are pre 1920 my oldest is a 1899 no8 and my newest is a 1912 607 my no 4,41/2,5 and no51/2 are all pre 1920
 
Firstly the grooved out bases, built to reduce friction, I’ve never had one as I think it would be annoying in the extreme as planing anything except a flat on the bench bit of wood the plane would be uncontrollable.
Re Stanley planes, they are perfectly good enough and I have never used anything else for the high end bespoke furniture I have been making for the last 50 years. I did in a fit of madness buy a LN smoother but tbh in my opinion it wasn’t any better than what I’ve been using, I didn’t really like it and the handle was too small for my grip so I sold it.
Recently bought a Stanley 4 with plastic handles for a quick job over in the States, with a minimum of fettling it was producing excellent work.
I have always maintained that you don’t need to spend a great deal of money to enjoy woodwork. And most things can be made with a relatively small toolkit.
Ian
 
Firstly the grooved out bases, built to reduce friction, I’ve never had one as I think it would be annoying in the extreme as planing anything except a flat on the bench bit of wood the plane would be uncontrollable.
Yes. Particularly when planing near corners/arrises, and especially parrticularly when planing edges. The grooves will catch on the corner between edge and face, and steer the plane where the groove wants to go, not where you wanted it to go. A marketing idea, not a mechanic's idea.
 
Yes. Particularly when planing near corners/arrises, and especially parrticularly when planing edges. The grooves will catch on the corner between edge and face, and steer the plane where the groove wants to go, not where you wanted it to go. A marketing idea, not a mechanic's idea.
NOT a marketing idea: the corrugations are a useful modification that makes planing resinous softwood much easier!
 
valid points, I'm mainly just wondering of the base with rib made in the 70's/80's is any better?
I acquired a new Record 5 1/2 in 1982 and is was excellent. And a new Stanly 7 in about 1965 but the sole was concave with about 2mm dip in the middle, which took me some time to realise, being a beginner. Sold it on. If I'd known better I would have flattened the sole; coarse wet n dry on a flat surface kept wet with white spirit, which is quite quick.
In other words be prepared to fiddle about if you buy an old one, or a very cheap new one.
 
I’ve used a few planes from the 70s and 80s with the rib down the center, and honestly, they’re not bad. The rib does give a little extra stability, but I wouldn’t say it makes a huge difference in terms of flatness. The quality of the iron is where these planes tend to fall short, so swapping out the iron and possibly adjusting the frog can definitely improve things. I’ve found that focusing on those parts can make a bigger impact on performance than just the ribbed base, but if you're looking for something solid and affordable, they can still work fine with a little tuning.
 
Firstly the grooved out bases, built to reduce friction, I’ve never had one as I think it would be annoying in the extreme as planing anything except a flat on the bench bit of wood the plane would be uncontrollable.
Re Stanley planes, they are perfectly good enough and I have never used anything else for the high end bespoke furniture I have been making for the last 50 years. I did in a fit of madness buy a LN smoother but tbh in my opinion it wasn’t any better than what I’ve been using, I didn’t really like it and the handle was too small for my grip so I sold it.
Recently bought a Stanley 4 with plastic handles for a quick job over in the States, with a minimum of fettling it was producing excellent work.
I have always maintained that you don’t need to spend a great deal of money to enjoy woodwork. And most things can be made with a relatively small toolkit.
Ian
Is the O.P. talking about those with the corrugated base that you mention - or is he talking about those with a rib/ridge down the centre of the body which forks of to form a Y at the handle?
 
Is the O.P. talking about those with the corrugated base that you mention - or is he talking about those with a rib/ridge down the centre of the body which forks of to form a Y at the handle?
Well, maybe? (Subtle of you the way you worded that, to cover my ignorance thank you.) No I haven’t come across the ridge, I don’t collect or display, I’m strictly a user.
Ian
 
IMG_9551.jpg


I'm talking about planes with the rib on top like this, not a #C for corrugated base
 
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