Planer/Thicknesser Technique

[PaulH]

Just acquired a Metabo HC260C planer/thicknesser - an early Christmas present from SWMBO .

I assume there is a "correct" technique that should be followed when using one of these machines, particularly when planning? Before I learn any bad habits, would someone point me in the right direction please?

Thanks,
Paul.

 

[ike]

Using the surface planer is the more dangerous operation. Safety first: No loose/unbuttoned cuffs, sleeves, jackets etc. Always set the planer guard to completely cover the unused portion of the cutter. Never leave the cutter exposed with the machine attended/unattended, except during the normal workflow of planing multiple lengths.
As for technique, assuming the tables are set properly, there's not much too it except keep downward pressure on timber as it moves onto the outfeed table. Use a pushstick whenver practical to do so. Err, thicknessers are a bit safer to use as they pull the timber in and then spit it out without hand intervention. I always keep my hand on the timber to ensure it is laying flat on the infeed table before it reaches the cutter.

I'm sure most or all this is already commonsense to you anyway.

cheers,

ike

 

[woodbloke]

Agree with all that Ike has said here. In addition, when feeding stuff into the thicknesser, its useful to put a little upward pressure on the underside of the timber as it emerges from the outfeed side. This helps to minimise 'snipe' - Rob

 

[Alf]

Try this

Cheers, Alf

 

[WoodStoat]

Don't leave a steel rule on top of the wood you plan to machine. I saw someone do this in a sawmill - the thing came flying back out like an Ecocet, and went through a Sterling board before stopping.

 

[Waka]

I agree with all the above, but just want to add that a good pair of ear defenders is a must.

Also good chip/dust extraction, you'd be surprised how much you take off especially when using the thicknesser, but I sure you're already aware of this.

 

[PaulH]

Thanks to one and all - can't wait to get the machine assembled now and put your guidance into practice!

Thanks again,
Paul.

 

[Anonymous]

Would endorse all the above, particularly about the guard on your planer. I managed to take off the end of my middle finger earlier this year purely because I had left the guard set for a 2" piece of timber when I was planing a piece of 1". Why don't we get those sprung pivoting guards in Europe like Norm has?

The other thing I would advise is always cut your timber approximately to length first before you start edge planing. Any bow in the wood will then be minimised and you will get much less waste. It is also much easier to handle shorter lengths and you need less space in the workshop.

Enjoy your new toy.

Brad

 

[promhandicam]

Just acquired a Metabo HC260C planer/thicknesser - an early Christmas present from SWMBO

Lucky you! I hope that you will be getting her something suitable in return - a new table saw perhaps :wink:

Just one comment when planing longer lengths it is very helpful to have a second pair of hands. Thicknessing isn't so bad as once the wood is 1/3 of the way in you can run round and catch it, but this isn't so easy. I'm fortunate in that I have a willing helper in the form of my 8 year old son and I'm sure he'd be happy to help you out if you paid for his return flights :lol:

Take care with your new toy,
Steve

 

[Lord Nibbo]

Most have said everything important but I would add to planing technique, on the very first pass of a board using two push pads feed the wood on the infeed pressing down only lightly, light enough not to bend any board your planing, after it has passed the cutter concentrate on using the push pads on out feed side more than the infeed side, every pass after the initial one always concentrate on pressing down or pushing on the out feed table only using two push pads.

 

[seaco]

Try whenever possible not to have your hand at anytime directly over the blades and if your stock is bowed have the bow facing up ie. the two ends touching on the infeed table...

 

[JFC]

I was told when thicknessing to stand to the side of the timber incase it kicks back . A 100mm x 50mm hurts when it hits you in the nuts at ?RPM :shock:

 

[Freetochat]

I have the DVD called Mastering Woodwork Machines by Mark Duginske which I found a help. According to the advice from Mark, I was using the planner too much and find now that I use the thicknesser to finish both sides. If it is of use, you are welcome to the DVD and I can pop it in the post.

 

[Slim]

This is a nice little video with the basic techniques when using a planer. Although it has the american style spring loaded guard.

 

[PaulH]

The generosity of forum members is once again demonstrated! Thanks for the offer Freetochat, pm sent.

Paul.

 

[Scrit]

Why don't we get those sprung pivoting guards in Europe like Norm has?

Because they can leave a lot more of the cutter block exposed......

On a point of technique, a joiner will always cvrosscut and rip his timber near to size before going to the planer - this reduces the number of passes you need to make when stock is bowed.

Scrit