Planer/thicknesser changeover

[Lons]

Nick

I have a Robland 300 which I think is the same as the Startright and I don't find the changeover to be an issue. Not as fast 10 seconds but thenbecause it's lightly used, I have to stop and think first

It's a sizeable machine for a single garage though and a mobile base is essential.

Bob

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

I should qualify the discussion from my perspective in terms of space....I have a triple garage for my workshop....so space isn't too much a premium. Having said that.....I really only use two of the three. But a single garage would definitely make me seriously rethink the priorities.

I guess I never really considered ditching the table saw and only having a bandsaw, that's an interesting idea given space restrictions. The only overhead I can instantly think of would be the need to plane every ripped edge to remove the bandsaw marks. This isn't always needed on a tablesaw of course (though any exposed edge is).

All of the other functions on the tablesaw though...grooving...tenoning etc would have to be soaked up by routers, hand tools etc. But its got me thinking....

Perhaps a good experiment would be to setup three workshops with identical tools save for one major machine tool difference. Run a contest to make the same piece of furniture in each of the three shops. Same operator...only variables would be the different primary machine tools...see which piece turns out best for quality and time. Would go some way to dispelling the myths and might make interesting copy

 

[devonwoody]

I have the SIP clone (around 8 years now) and I have in the past only set the planer fence at it furthest set up (opposite side to switch). When thicknessing again I tend to use the same section of blades. Recently I have used the near side because the blades must be sharper.

So wide tables do have advantage of having longer blade life?

 

[custard]

I have the SIP clone (around 8 years now) and I have in the past only set the planer fence at it furthest set up (opposite side to switch). When thicknessing again I tend to use the same section of blades. Recently I have used the near side because the blades must be sharper.

So wide tables do have advantage of having longer blade life?

You raise an interesting question (and something that's probably far more significant than change over times for most users) how frequently should you sharpen the planer knives?

I change the planer knives every second time I empty the dust extractor bag (after all it's the P/T that accounts for the majority of the waste so that should be a reasonable if not perfect guide). But I think I should change the blades more frequently, say every time I empty the dust extractor, because I can see that performance has started to drop off.

Recently I edge jointed six oak boards, 88" long, for a table top. I changed the knives (it's a four knife cutter block with a quick change system) just before doing this job because I wanted to give myself every chance for success. Including the outer edges that made 12 edges at 88" long, or a total of 88' of oak board planed on the same part of the knives (because the fence was kept stationary throughout). Carefully inspecting the finished result it was possible to detect a slight difference between the first and last boards. I'd still judge the last section acceptable, but it was sobering to find any difference at all.

The lesson I took from this is that most people (myself included) tend to soldier on with blunt planer blades when they really should be replaced or sharpened. Incidentally, going back to your original point, if I were doing this job again I would now consider moving the fence part way through to even up knife wear.

 

[devonwoody]

The wide 10" blades on those combined machines gives that extra blade usage to bear in mind.
I do around three bags before I change blades.

 

[Nick Gibbs]

I hadn't considered blade changing, and extra use from a wide blade. Love the idea of three workshops. I am planning a Workshop Special later in the year, and perhaps we could do something for that. Any volunteers?

Nick

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

me and my big mouth

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

the extra width of a wide planer is useful in terms of blade longevity. I tend to use mine in thirds ie fence position moves to expose different thirds of the blade for a period of time. I got sick of the time and cost of a sharpening service so bought the Tormek's plane blade sharpening jig so I could become self sufficient.

Even with that its still a drag....anyone tried those...actually I'm going to start a new thread with this as I'm really interested in the alternatives.

 

[RogerS]

....actually I'm going to start a new thread with this as I'm really interested in the alternatives.

Turnblades for me.....
.............................every time.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Turnblades? Are they the ones with a sharp edge on both sides of the blade? And if so...do you then still have them sharpened with a service?

 

[RogerS]

Turnblades? Are they the ones with a sharp edge on both sides of the blade? And if so...do you then still have them sharpened with a service?

Yes...it's these http://www.barke.de/web-content/eng/sysbarkeEN.html You can get them from Doug at Cutting Solutions. Sharpen them? You must be joking...that defeats the object. No sharpening and you only ever have to line-up the blade/holder once..when you initially fit them.

 

[devonwoody]

Bob, I have got the Tormek T7 plus the planer blade attachment, never used it yet, give us some hints on not what to do etc. I have got an old non sharpenable blade, do you think that would be good to practice on.

I will transfer this post if you are starting a new thread to yours.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Thanks Roger...They're new on me...they sound kind of perfect if the cost is reasonable.

Devon...glad to hear you're a T7 man. It would be a good idea to practice on the blade you mention....just make sure its not an exotic like carbide...though I doubt it will be.

The trick to the planar knife jig is two fold:

1) Accurate setup (which I warn you is fiddly but eminently do-able)
2) Maintaining an active grindstone ie one that is not glazed and therefore continues to cut steel.

The instructions are actually excellent with all the Tormek jigs as the Swedes...unlike the Chinese have both a grasp of English AND quality engineering! One personal tip I would add is to use a light source behind the blade when setting up....this helps you to determine that the bevel is exactly true to the stone. It is essential you true the stone before you start using the diamond truing tool. Depending on how much grinding you need to do...you may need to true 3 or four times during the whole process of multiple knives. Also, if the jig hits the leather strop on the right hand swing, just detach the strop to give free passage of the jigs side to side movement.
Let me know how you get on and good luck.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

incidentally...when performed correctly and then the knives setup in the P/T correctly....you won't believe what a difference it makes to the finish. Even the sound of it is sweet...the shavings, crisp and perky.....its a joy to use a sharp planar knife and the T7 makes them staggeringly sharp. You just may need to do a fair bit of grinding to get there depending on how damaged the blade is that's all.

Remember...glazed wheel = not cutting...that's your biggest enemy

 

[Lons]

Bob

I have a T7 but didn't buy the jig as I thought £130 was rather a lot to pay.
I take it that you think it's worth the money then!

Bob