Planer Blades

[Doug B]

Hi,
I`m new to the forum, so not really sure if this is the place to ask this question, but here goes.
I have an old Wadkin surface planer, recently i`ve been planing some very dry English oak. The thing is the knots are knocking chunks out of my HSS blades.
Does anyone know if there are carbide blades available for such an old machine, the blades are approx 13"x 1"x 1/8". They are just flat steel no holes or locating points.
Any help on this would be much appreciated, as i`m getting tired of re-grinding.
Many thanks.
James B

 

[Digit]

Having recently built a stable door from old reclaimed Oak I know the problem! But I'm not sure that carbide will help as it is more brittle that HSS or carbon steel.

Roy.

 

[wizer]

you don't say what size they are?

Scott and Sergeant do TCT blades

http://www.machines4wood.com/mall/depar ... /81189/1/1

Also Cutting solutions

http://www.cutting-solutions.co.uk/

and Bedford Saw

http://www.bedfordsaw.co.uk

 

[Jake]

Roy is right, you don't want TCT for that. Your problem will get worse, at greater expense! TCT blades are great for abrasive tropical hardwoods where silica deposits are a problem but they are much more brittle than HSS.

 

[ProShop]

Hi james,

If your using the old HSS knives that's what usually happens especially if the hardwood has been kilned.

You can get now some HSS blades with a higher carbide content HP4 is the thing to ask for or HS-M42, much cheaper than full carbides and the makers claim up to 75% durability, OK manufacturers and retailers make some interesting claims at times, but they are better than the standard HSS.

Carbides don't usually like knots much either .


Hope this helps

 

[Doug B]

Thanks for the prompt replies.
Looking on the Cutting Solutions site, they have planer knifes made from HPS which they claim is a new quality of material & has a longer tool life, than HSS.
Does anyone have experience of this product?
I take on board the point that carbide is more brittle, but is this because it is harder than HSS? Do you think the carbide would chip as easily as the HSS seems to.

James B.

 

[Digit]

It's the granular structure of carbide that seems to be the problem, the finer the structure the sharper the edge that can be obtained and any grains that break away are smaller.
Freud saw blades for example seem to have a much finer structure than the cheaper blades.

Roy.

 

[Doug B]

I`ll look out for HP4 & kick the idea of carbide into touch.
Thanks again for all the advice.

 

[wizer]

Let us know how you get on James...

 

[iajon69]

Have you tried having the blades ground to a lesser angle?
It can make a difference having the angle of the blades ground and you should have a different angle on planer blades for hardwood.

Ian

 

[WellsWood]

Have you tried having the blades ground to a lesser angle?
It can make a difference having the angle of the blades ground and you should have a different angle on planer blades for hardwood.

Ian

I'll second that, I grind a secondary bevel on mine just as I would on a hand plane iron. It's a method I adopted a while back to increase the durability of the edge to cope with a stock of reclaimed oak (100 year old doors from a school) and seems to work really well. It also makes sharpening a breeze as you don't have to remove much material to get back to a really good edge.

 

[OPJ]

Mark, do you use one of those 4" long blocks that Axminster sell to add a secondary bevel?

 

[WellsWood]

Mark, do you use one of those 4" long blocks that Axminster sell to add a secondary bevel?

No, tried one though - found it really difficult to keep the angle consistent.

I use one of these to put an initial (small) secondary bevel on when they come back from being reground at my saw-doctor. Then a DMT diafold for susequent in-situ touchups.

 

[Doug B]

iajon69/Mark W
What angle do you suggest for the main angle?
I grind my own on a Tormek, & have a set ready to re-grind.
While i`m at it i will try the secondary bevel.
Thanks.
James B

 

[WellsWood]

Main bevel is about 37degrees, with the micro secondary about 3-5deg higher. Depending on the angle your knives are held in the block I suspect you can go a bit higher than this if your goal is maximum strength at the cutting edge.

 

[Doug B]

Thanks Mark.
I will give it a go & report back.
James B.

 

[iajon69]

I haven't tried a micro bevel (yet!), but usually grind the angle to 35 degrees for hardwood.

Ian