Planed timber from logs?

[gasmansteve]

Hi all
I have been interested in segmented turning lately and in the process of doing this I use a fair bit of planed hardwood timber. I have quite a few logs stored in the garage eg Lime, Pear Cherry nice chunk of Laburnum and other stuff ranging in size up to 9" diameter. This has probably been covered before but how feasible would it be to cut logs into useful planed timber?.
Obviously some sort of rigid holding device to put the log through the bandsaw would be needed and I`d be interested in hearing how/if other folk have done it or is it not worth the effort?.
Cheers
Steve

 

[jasonB]

I've done it several times. You need to leave the boards thicker than you want and be prepared for about 50% waste assuming the logs are still quite green.

If you have a chain saw use that to split the log down the middle then the semi-circle will sit on the bandsaw, if your bandsaw is big enough then make up a sledge to huld the log and stop it moving.

You then need to allow the wood to dry for a good six months minimum.

Made the boxes in this album from beech logs and a scrap of green oak, and this from sycamore.

 

[tigerturnings]

I too have done it a few times. Made up a chainsaw jig similar to the Alaskan Small Log Mill and used it on a few oak logs. It was heavy work but after drying and planing up the timber it's come out well albeit with a high wastage. Note you lost a wide kerf (~10mm typically per cut) with this method.

Subsequently I bought a bandsaw with 10" cut depth, and fitted a Dragon 1.3TPI blade. Used with a home made sled as jasonB recommends, this cuts with less waste and better finish, but handling heavier logs on the machine table can be tricky.

BTW, lovely boxes jason!

HTH

Neil

 

[gasmansteve]

Thanks for that Jason and Neil. Seems like it might be worth it after all. Never thought about the bandsaw blade, I just assumed I`d use the 7tpi one I already have but I suppose if you are rough sawing you need a less tpi one and I would think it would last longer than the 7tpi one?
Cheers
Steve
Ps I agree about the boxes, nice stuff Jason

 

[George_N]

Would splitting logs with an axe and wedges work to get them down from the round into sections that would go through the bandsaw? I've not done this myself but now I have a bandsaw with a 7" depth of cut I am tempted to give it a go. There is a small wood attached to the site where I work and the guys who were in recently doing some forestry work have left some decent sized limbs that I have thought about trying to convert into boards.

 

[bugbear]

Would splitting logs with an axe and wedges work to get them down from the round into sections that would go through the bandsaw?

This would only work on dull wood with dead straight grain.

Worse, in some species, even "straight" grain actually spirals (gently) up the tree, resulting in severe "winding" in riven boards.

BugBear

 

[jasonB]

Splitting would be fine for short lengths, maybe upto 3ft long, which is what you want for boxes, segmented work etc. At those sort of lengths you don't need to worry too much about the grain although it won't work with burrs, crotch figured wood or heavily knotted species.

Jason

 

[Finial]

using a bandsaw for logs is quite practical as long as you are not too greedy. the smaller the sizes you saw to in proportion to the size of the log the more likely the planks are to survive drying. I haven't found a sledge essential, just saw as straight as possible and count on planing straight later if the wood dries OK. the hard part is supporting larger logs on the table, specially at the end of the first cut down the centre when you have two pieces to hold on to, both wanting to fall over, and the saw to turn off at the same time. it can be safer to stop the cut before the end, back out, and use a wedge to split the halves apart. It's easier when you have a flat surface to put on the table.

 

[recipio]

Just to throw the topic open, has anybody here got into converting tree trunks into boards.?
I've tried a few short lengths of 10" diameter yew on my 2hp bandsaw and it's almost impossible. The saw is underpowered and hard to control.
On a bandsaw I think you're into 3 phase power and some kind of holding jig.
I've looked at the Peterson skillmill which has a circular blade and an electric motor but will only do 8" logs and is about £2500+.( You can add an alaskan chainmill however) The Ripsaw from the U.S. is a reasonable bandmill but you have to add a chainsaw motor.
I don't see any reasonable diy solution to converting small diameter logs, say up to 12" into boards which is a shame because there are some lovely fruitwood logs available !
Anybody got experience of this ?

cheers.

 

[paulm]

Hi Recipio,

I do quite a lot of this and it's easy enough I find on my Startrite 351s and I think the motor is 1.5hp or 2hp, can't recall which.

The saw capacity under the guides is 12" and at that depth it is slow and the saw struggles, less is obviously easier, but if you do say 10" logs in lengths of a couple of feet, iti s quite achieveable.

Have to make sure as always that you have a decent and sharp blade, I use a 3/4" 3tpi or a 1" 1.2tpi from Dragon Saws, the wider one being really fast cutting but only just fits the saw. Taking it easy and not forcing the cuts takes time but quite do-able I find for modest sized logs although obviously a bigger motor would make it easier and quicker still.

Cheers, Paul.

 

[jasonB]

The easiest option is to split the log down the middle, this gives a flatish surface to put on the table and means you can get a log of approx twice your max depth of cut under the guides.

It can be split with a chainsaw (I have a rip chain for this) or if the right wood then split. Bugger logs are best chainsawn into manageable pieces, I've done large trees with sections about 10x6 and 4ft long, wouldn't be able to lift much more safe.

In the home workshop you are never going to get wide long boards but should be able to get enough for draw fronts, boxes small cabinets etc as well as veneers.

I'll take a pic of some oak I have done later, even felled the 45ft tree

Jason

 

[PowerTool]

Bugger logs are best chainsawn into manageable pieces,

Do they come from bugger trees - don't seem to be able to find them in Terry Porters "timber identification" book :wink:

Seriously though,would like to see pictures of your oak tree conversion.

Andrew