Pinning a handle - how to drill HSS?

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Steve Maskery

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I was trying to hang up my Superthin parting tool by drilling a hole through it. I (eventually) got right through but it broke (the blade). Bummer. It wasn't very long to start with and I've lost an inch.

So I've cut off the damaged end and made a wooden handle. So far so good.

I've drilled two holes in my wooden blank to take a couple of brass screws to act as pins and I have marked through them onto the HSS blade. My 1/8" drill won't touch it. Is there anything I can do to anneal the steel? It doesn't have to be hard in that area.

I just want two little holes. It's not much to ask of life, is it?
 
You need carbide to drill HSS steel, and it is not easy to do. 1/8" hole, I would say you are wasting your time.
 
Don't attempt to heat treat the HSS, you may be able to ruin the steel temper but you certainly won't re-harden it if you do.

Perhaps bond the blade in with epoxy ?

You'd be better off with a hole in your handle for hanging or a magnet for the blade, although the latter can be a pain for attracting the grinding debris to the blade.
Mine drops in behind a couple of Pan Head wood screws on the front of the rack rather than a slot..
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I'd try using a slitting blade in a grinder to mark a cross on it, possibly from both sides? Should get most of the way through and the heat will soften it in a localised area hopefully.
 
During my tool making days drilling “omitted” holes in hardened press tools was a necessary operation using Stellite drills. They will successfully drill HSS.

The problem is the need for very fast speeds and a constant high pressure while drilling. This causes intense heat at the point of contact but the actual drilling process is quite easy. I would think the chances of a 1/8” dill withstanding the pressure unlikely without controlled conditions #-o

http://www.knighton-tools.co.uk/acatalo ... _BITS.html

£82.85 :( :(

Perhaps think again.
 
I feared as much. I was going to epoxy it anyway, the pins were just belt and braces. They have the holes now. Perhaps I'll just insert some dummy pins!
Thank you all.
 
I've just had a thought.
My angle grinder made a quick enough job of cutting off the damage. What if I cut a closed slot down the length of the blade, between the two holes? That would work in the same way, wouldn't it?
 
I found just what Chas says; I could easily ruin the temper of M3 HSS, but not reharden it. But to drill rivet holes in the tang, you don't need to reharden it so it may help. Epoxy sounds like a much easier plan though.
 
Scuff up the surface and use a good epoxy, it will be fine. If you really want to pin use the angle grinder to cut out some material. Epoxy will fill the rest of the void.

You might just manage to make some holes using a sharpened masonry bit, they will be oversize though.
 
a fella on you tube paoson woodworking tried to do the same thing he made a knife from an old saw blade couldnt drill it so he cut two slots with a grinder just as you said steve just go for it , good luck ian
 
wills-mill":25e3z8ov said:
If you're desperate to drill HSS, I've had good results with 'locksmith's drills'. They are a fraction of the price of proper engineerium tackle, and have worked well for drilling tool steel and HSS spindle moulder blanks (when using a pillar drill). The price is worth a punt for a one off project.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TCT-DRILL-BIT ... zNd5gQdIWg

That is a new one on me! I guess it is basically the same as a sharpened masonry bit, but much less of a hack job. I'll have to remember these for future projects. Thank you.
 
I bet a plasma cutter would work well too, they cut without much heat.

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