The only thing I can think of is to go with a similar set up to a wiper motor, where the drive bar actually sits on a conical spline, and the nut just holds it in place. If it is actually a wiper motor could you use the drive bar from the wiper system bolted to the back of your wheel, then bore out the centre of the wheel for access to get the nut on. This would certainly handle the torque. Might be a case of buying a wiper motor and drive from a scrapyard to source matching parts.
Permanent thread lock
- Thread starter bertterbo
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The only other way I can think of would be if you can file the motor shaft below the thread to a square. Would need to be done with care so you have a reasonably flat shoulder at the bottom of the square section. Then make a tight fitting square hole in a piece of steel plate. Screw the plate to the back of your pulley and then secure the plate to the shaft. Same idea as above really, just without having to buy any more bits and pieces.
If you never want to remove it, use a shear nut and loctite.
M8 Shear Nut A4 stainless steel (Permacone - snapoff - Security - Tamper Proof) Pack Size : 8 Amazon.co.uk
Otherwise use a tamper proof security nut - very like a locking wheel nut for a car, but smaller. You keep the "key" head and it's almost impossible for someone else to remove it.
M8 Shear Nut A4 stainless steel (Permacone - snapoff - Security - Tamper Proof) Pack Size : 8 Amazon.co.uk
Otherwise use a tamper proof security nut - very like a locking wheel nut for a car, but smaller. You keep the "key" head and it's almost impossible for someone else to remove it.
Phil Pascoe
Established Member
Surely both of those are designed to stop people taking them off rather than to stop them working loose and coming off? If you're relying on Locktite it wouldn't make much difference if they were used.
flying haggis
Established Member
What stops the wheel from slipping on the shaft? The bottom end of the motor shaft appears to have a taper with a rough surface like teeth, could the wheel be machined to fit such that the "teeth" help stop the wheel slipping?
Jamesdrend
Member
I started to read the posts and I thought how about solution x, y and z .... then further posts suggest them ! Try combining a bonding material with a mechanical solution.
How about flattening the edge of the thread on the shaft with a hammer on an anvil or equivalent. It could be done gradually, and you only need to hammer one side, giving a flatter top and bottom. The Left/Right thread would still be round and hold the nut thread in place, whereas Top/Bottom would grip the inner thread of the nut better.
How about flattening the edge of the thread on the shaft with a hammer on an anvil or equivalent. It could be done gradually, and you only need to hammer one side, giving a flatter top and bottom. The Left/Right thread would still be round and hold the nut thread in place, whereas Top/Bottom would grip the inner thread of the nut better.
Will it be subject to any heat from friction in turning? I wouldn't know as I've never used it but I'd imagine that CA glue may fail at that.
I have used Araldite and JB weld for this purpose but on much smaller items and they aren't great. I think of them as cheap domestic products - Also the gorilla brand epoxy is pretty poor.
I'd look into a proper epoxy like something from West systems, they do a product called G-Flex which as the name suggests is semi flexible, may avoid it being too brittle and shearing. Personally I'd ring them up and ask them if there was somthing they could recommend.
I once used West epoxy and their microfibre powder to repair the holes in the sump of a Subaru Justy and it lasted a good three or four years until the car was scrapped.
In addition to degreasing with acetone I'd be inclined to rough the threads on the bolt and in the nut with sand paper first for the glue to get ahold. Mask up anything you don't want to get glue on and use LOADS more than you need.
I have used Araldite and JB weld for this purpose but on much smaller items and they aren't great. I think of them as cheap domestic products - Also the gorilla brand epoxy is pretty poor.
I'd look into a proper epoxy like something from West systems, they do a product called G-Flex which as the name suggests is semi flexible, may avoid it being too brittle and shearing. Personally I'd ring them up and ask them if there was somthing they could recommend.
I once used West epoxy and their microfibre powder to repair the holes in the sump of a Subaru Justy and it lasted a good three or four years until the car was scrapped.
In addition to degreasing with acetone I'd be inclined to rough the threads on the bolt and in the nut with sand paper first for the glue to get ahold. Mask up anything you don't want to get glue on and use LOADS more than you need.
