PAR

[lurker]

Elementary question:

What are the final dimensions for two by one?
All my wood is resawn recycled stuff so I have nothing to compare with.
I am making some jigs ready to use on bought in PAR

 

[Phil Pascoe]

44mm x 20.5mm seems to be standard. Nothing like 2" x 1" of course.

 

[deema]

You buy it in dimensions from what it was planned out of. Usual is to allow 6mm for planing, or in old money 1/4”.
Be aware that PAR isn’t the same as straight and true, what you get is stuff that’s square, planed on all four sides.....but not necessarily straight.

 

[lurker]

Thanks

Although I have been wood working for a long time,other than sheet, I have not bought any wood for a long while, as I have a source of scrap. Mostly “mahogany” type joinery.

 

[Jacob]

Bought sawn 2x1" may be exactly 2x1" or metricised to 50x25mm and may be very curly unless freshly planed.
Bought PAR 2x1" will vary from 18 to 22mm by 44mm ish and ditto.

 

[MikeG.]

It varies. With my usual supplier (and what goes on my drawings) it is 45 x 20.

 

[thetyreman]

exactly 45 x 20 last time I checked as well.

 

[MikeG.]

The easy way to remember finish PAR sizes with the supplier(s) in my area is .......5mm off the metric equivalent of the inch sizes. So ex 1"x 1-1/2" (25 x 38) is (25-5) 20 x (38-5) 33. It even works for CLS 6x2 = 150-5 x 50-5, and if that's 1mm off it doesn't make the slightest difference.

 

[samhay]

Mine must get the planar depth a little deeper as I get 44 x 19mm.

 

[Bm101]

The easy way to remember finish PAR sizes with the supplier(s) in my area is .......5mm off the metric equivalent of the inch sizes. So ex 1"x 1-1/2" (25 x 38) is (25-5) 20 x (38-5) 33. It even works for CLS 6x2 = 150-5 x 50-5, and if that's 1mm off it doesn't make the slightest difference.

Top man.
Thank you Mike. Some of us like the simple.

 

[Jacob]

The easy way to remember finish PAR sizes with the supplier(s) in my area is .......5mm off the metric equivalent of the inch sizes. So ex 1"x 1-1/2" (25 x 38) is (25-5) 20 x (38-5) 33. It even works for CLS 6x2 = 150-5 x 50-5, and if that's 1mm off it doesn't make the slightest difference.

Top man.
Thank you Mike. Some of us like the simple.

Easier if you just remember that you will probably lose 1/4" both ways. If you plane your own you can usually do much better as the routine is to plane pieces after they've been cut to length to the cutlist. This means you can set aside the straightest (and fattest if there are variations) sawn stuff for the longest workpiece - and vice versa.

 

[Doug71]

If you bought it from us back in the day when my father was operating the 4 or 5 cutter it could be any size. He was terrible for trying to finish timber as thick as possible, after putting 20 lengths through he would decide some were missing getting planed in places so would wind it down a bit and take a bit more off the next 20 lengths, then he would keep winding it up a bit every so often until it started missing again so then it went back down again, you ended up with a real mix of sizes #-o . Was the same with architrave and skirting board, two batches were never the same.

 

[MikeG.]

I'm not sure how much human involvement there is these days in large scale milling operations. I suspect your father's approach might be one for the history books alone.

 

[BigMonka]

The easy way to remember finish PAR sizes with the supplier(s) in my area is .......5mm off the metric equivalent of the inch sizes. So ex 1"x 1-1/2" (25 x 38) is (25-5) 20 x (38-5) 33. It even works for CLS 6x2 = 150-5 x 50-5, and if that's 1mm off it doesn't make the slightest difference.

Mike, I've noticed it in a few of your posts but what do you mean when you write "ex" before a dimension please?

 

[MikeG.]

.......Mike, I've noticed it in a few of your posts but what do you mean when you write "ex" before a dimension please?

Ex means the sawn size that a planed piece comes from. So 45x20 PAR is ex 2"x 1", for instance.