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JFC

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I was asked to make a couple of staircases for some penthouse suites as the ones they had made before had gone rotten within a few years . The ones in place where redwood and in a very bad state . I opted for S&T and took 1mm off all round on the timber yards thicknesser :wink: and decking material . My thinking was that S&T already had a high moisture content so would last longer even with taking 1mm off the sawn faces .
People are now asking if i can get a (PAR or good )finish on it :roll:
They want internal joinery outside even though they know its going to rot ](*,) I did price the job in Teak but guess what :roll:
Anyway what does the forum think ? A coat of cuprinol once a year or something else ?
DSC00013.jpg
 
And I thought you knew it all :wink: S&T = sawn & tanalized.

JFC you could use sawn redwood and have it pressure treated after planing or offer them Iroko or even oak as a less expensive alternative to teak.

Jason
 
S&T is sawn and tanalized or pressure treated timber .
I do hope your not mocking the architects idea of putting lead sealed feet aroung the newel posts :twisted:
I thought fixing the balusters to the string was better than putting a base rail on and directing the water to the M&T in the bottom newel .
 
JFC

As to finishing could you not just use decking oil, it works well on my deck. The only downside is that it needs doing every year.
 
Jason , i priced around six different timbers and they went for the cheapest option :roll:
Mr G i agree and did say it would be better to build brick piers with a cement bed running away from the posts but what do i know compared to an architect eh :roll:
 
jason, looks good, but maybe you should show the architect some pictures from Fine Homebuilding.

no expert, but surely brick piers with cladding, and then the top caps should be sloping to ensure run off. also how do you stop water pooling around the bottom of the balusters, surely even with inserts, the water will still creep into the stringer. :roll:

paul :wink:
 
You could have stood them on a big lump of rock like this :D or used the fixing plates they make for decks which space the timber off the foundation.

Jason
 
Ive not seen those fixing plates before , they look just the ticket !
Paul , there is no base rail on the string so i'm hoping the water wont pool as the angle is to great . It is a problem on the base rail on the balcony part and although the balusters don't touch the bottom of the base rail the water will still pool there . Im thinking of drilling a few holes in the base plate to let the water escape but i'm not sure if it will do more harm than good .
 
JFC":2oe8q6ql said:
Im thinking of drilling a few holes in the base plate to let the water escape but i'm not sure if it will do more harm than good .

Yup..it will. They'll partially fill up with detritus sooner than you can shake a stick at.. Lovely absorbent detritus to hold on to all that lovely moisture :twisted:
 
hi jason
shame on you pricing for teak and using s&t :whistle:

the problem with s&t is that it will go green and slippery

is this part of a fire escape route ???

i did notice that there were no cover caps on the support posts and newels , but did like the lead work . maybe you could use the same system on the stair stringers

id go for decking stain , but it wont stop it going green and slippery
maybe if its part of a fire escape route you could use that black non slip rubber with a gritty surface on one side {particulaly on the risers}

ive got to say jason
this is a bit basic for you , looking at the high quality of some of the other stuff youve done in the past
it goes to show that none of us know everything
regs
mel
 
Hi Mel , Its six floors up so no not a fire escape . The cappings i'm still waiting for the timber yard to get in but they will go on . Not sure what you mean by using lead on the string or a bit basic ?
Low down is i do a bit of work for builders that speak to the architect that speak to the letting agent . They all have great ideas and my comments are heard by the builder but the rest just ignore them . The builder says well we get to build another one in five years (id rather not)
Still most of the year i make windows and doors etc for them but now and again you have to do the ***** jobs .
 
jason,had a thought about removing water from the balusters,
what about a "decorative" groove just in front of the newel post
and maybe alongside all the balusters to stop the water pooling?

paul :wink:
 
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