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Gary/Chas

Thanks for the info, might look into getting the RS HM. My turning tools at present are a very cheap set that I got when the lathe was purchased, 59 GBP for the set if I'm not mistaken from Axminster.

I've not really had much of a problem with this set, but have been thinking about upgrading, but really not too sure what to go for, there seems to be so many out there and the price range is huge.

Any recommendations.

If I knew what a bowl saver was I'd be able to answer Trev's question, isn't ignorance bliss?
 
Waka":2t4a1izl said:
Any recommendations.

Waka,

My personal favorites are the Crown PM range. They are a little bit more expensive, but they hold an edge for ages - much longer than conventional HSS. Means less time sharpening and more time turning.

I recently bought a couple of Ashley Isles tools, and I am quite impressed with them too.

I personally am not a huge fan of Robert Sorby. Their tools are more expensive than just about anyone else, and in my opinion the extra cost does not reflect in better quality - in fact, the RS tools I have got seem to require sharpening more than most.

A big factor in my opinion is the handles. It is worth going to a show (Yandles is excellent for this is most of the manufacturers are represented) and trying the various makes in your hand to see which feels right to you. In my opinion, most manufacturers don't make their handles long enough (especially on scrapers), so I have started making my own. That way I can make them as long as I want, but keep the diameter small, as I have small hands.

I think as long as you stick with one of the well known brands, I don't think you can go far wrong as far as quality of the steel goes. Why not save yourself a few quid and by a set of un-handled tools and turn your own handles - good practice in using the skew!

Regards

Gary
 
trevtheturner":2wp8sfzu said:
...snip..
The bowl blank saver you mention, Chas, is that the Kel McNaughton system? I was looking at that, because of the horrendous waste when bowl turning, but it needs a lathe with a minimum 2hp motor. Unfortunately my lathe is only 1hp.

Does anybody know of a bowl saver system that will function satisfactorily with just a 1hp lathe?

Cheers,

Trev.

Thats the one Trevor, Having seen this in action some time ago and watched the very short demo video several times I cannot see why the HP is critical for amateur use, not for the mini and standard set anyway.

Admittedly I would not expect to be able go at it as aggressively as is shown on the video with a smaller motor but as there should be no binding if used as demonstrated I think it should be OK with a little patience.

What few write-ups I have seen put a great deal of onus on speed as a means of justifying short time expenditure against wood costs or production time lost by a professional. This indeed would require an adequate HP especially the large version for 18" bowls.

My lathe has an even smaller motor than yours at just 550W and I can indeed stall it on anything over 250mm if I am too brutal but I find that it removes material fast enough for me. I have straight parted 280 mm diameter to a depth of 100mm with a diamond shaped straight parting tool so I do not see the Kel tool being much more demanding.

Getting the angles correct so as not to break out of the bottom is another matter though.
:wink:
 
Chas,

I have looked at the demo. on the link below, provided by cd (thanks),

http://www.enter.net/%7Eultradad/bowlcoring.html

where it is suggested that you don't need force or a lot of power for the McNaughton bowl corer, but I saw that he was using a Poolewood 2hp lathe. Looking at the author's review of that lathe on his site, I noted there that he stalled his 2hp lathe using the medium cutter! In addition to Hegner's advice, that pretty much convinces me that my 1hp lathe wouldn't cope! The skinflint in me says don't risk it until I know more!

Waka,

I go along with what Gary says about turning tools, with the exception of the Crown PM range which I have yet to try. I started with some Henry Taylor tools and have since added tools from Crown, Hamlet and Sorby. All are HSS and are fine. So it is probably just a matter of choice and what suits you really - any of the established, well-known makes are okay but, as Gary says, look at the handles. I detest heavily lacquered handles and the first thing I do is sand them back to a matt finish - they don't look so nice then but the grip in my hand is far better. I, too, now buy unhandled tools wherever possible because I have large hands so I make my own handles, chunkier and longer than those normally supplied.

If your existing tools are HSS, which no doubt they are, it might be worth trying just one of the Crown PM range?

Cheers,

Trev.
 
Gary/Trev

Thanks for the tool recommendations, I'll have a look on the web. I'll be at Yandles next year and have a try to see what I favour.
 
Waka, I started with a cheap Perform set from Axminster.
Apart from the handles not being the most comfortable in use they have not been bad enough to force a rework and the steel in them holds its edge on a par with other brands I have bought.

I would say use what you have until you see a need for a particular task that you are having a job mastering then go out and look at the racks for a tool that looks the right shape and feels balanced in your hands.

I have some crown tools that tend to have smaller handles and steel but are fine and very well balanced in use.

If given a choice I now buy the Hamlet brand as I find the slightly larger format (steel/handles balance) more to my liking.
 
Waka":10k993o3 said:
Gary/Trev

Thanks for the tool recommendations, I'll have a look on the web. I'll be at Yandles next year and have a try to see what I favour.

If you do go to Yandles, Crown normally have one of their reps there. He is very helpful, and if you are buying several tools, will often give you an extra discount on top of the already discounted price.

Regards

Gary
 
Chas":1o3gzius said:
I started with a cheap Perform set from Axminster.

Chas

Thats the set I have, I find that they don't hold their sharpness for to long, mind you that could be my sharpening technique. As these work after a fashion I'm in no real hurry to spend, I just wnat to make sure i get the best for my buck that suits me.

Thanks agai for all the advice, I should be turning in about a week, standby for results.
 
Waka,

What do you use for sharpening your tools, and do you use a jig?

Oh, and see you all at Yandles in the Spring then? :wink:

Cheers,

Trev.
 
trevtheturner":35ionllp said:
Waka,

What do you use for sharpening your tools, and do you use a jig?

Oh, and see you all at Yandles in the Spring then? :wink:

Cheers,

Trev.

At the moment I use the Axminster slow speed grinder with the Sorby jig. But the Tormek is waiting for me at home with all the required jigs, so I.m hoping I'll get a better edge on the tools.

I'll be at the show, see you there.
 
Waka":3mwqq9so said:
At the moment I use the Axminster slow speed grinder with the Sorby jig. But the Tormek is waiting for me at home with all the required jigs, so I.m hoping I'll get a better edge on the tools.

.snip..

Waka, I think you may find using the tormek has its limitations with the smaller profile HSS tools in that you will tend to groove the soft stone very easily and spend more time dressing the stone for blade use than any benifit gained from refined edges on turning scrapers or gouges.

I find that extended length between sharpenings is not an advantage to me, I get better reults with just a quick caress on the wheel on a regular basis which means I have a better edge without the temptation to prolong edge use beyond optimum.

A very light pass over the blue wheel takes seconds and produces a very keen edge.
 
click on images for larger view

Beech Coasters and half a dozen Trinket Boxes in Purple Heart (one is being all coy at the back)
 
click on images for larger view

_______Brown Oak and Ash Cheese boards ______________ Ash Plates (~ 300mm dia)



Ash & Mahogany Knife Handles. ______________Zebrano Bowls (300mm dia)
 
click on images for larger view

Beech, harvested 22 days ago and 'Meths' Dried.

Anyone any ideas on the Colour Shading, is it from original differing moisture/nutrient levels between core and outer wood?

Or my doing from uneven Alcohol penetration causing differing drying speeds (i.e. more soak time needed)
Original stock 210mm dia. Bowls from the two halves of same log.

No problem whatever it is, just looking for guidance for future in case I need to avoid colour variation. It was not evident in the partially turned blank.
 
Chas,

I have turned a lot of Beech (my neighbor had a huge Beech tree which came down in a storm).

In my experience it can be a funny timber colour - wise. Some pieces were completely uniform, others showed marked colour variations, which I found surprising as they had all come from the same tree. I can only assume that the differences were down to sap / sugar levels as per your comments in one of the other posts.

I also left some of the wood outside in contact with the ground. Again, some of this spalted beautifully, some didn't spalt at all, and some went rotten very quickly.

In conclusion, I can't help you with an explanation for your colour variations, just offer some reassurance that it is not unusual.

Regards

Gary
 
Thanks for the response Gary, I was coming to the conclusion that it was natural after making a study of the exposed growth ring layers.
 
Just Playing. click on image for larger view

Cedar of Lebanon (100mm high).
 
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