One Bevel, Two Bevels, Three Bevels, More?

[Jacob]

It is pointless giving serious answers to people who make puerile comments.

David

Dodging again Dave! I think the serious answer is that you haven't tried it. :lol: :lol:

 

[MMUK]

Maybe it would be informative to start a poll to ascertain exactly how many people on the board are forming four, separate bevels on their plane irons, or plan to do so in the very near future.

how-many-t79192.html


:-" :-" :-" :-" :-"

 

[iNewbie]

Camber is essential for most plane blades but the jiggers go on and on about flatness and straight edges. How does Dave get a camber with his 5 bevel system (precise, repeatable, etc etc)?

Where exactly (apart from in your own exaggerating mind) do these jiggers go on-and-on about flatness and straight edges. You yourself go on-and-on ad nauseum about Freehand, though - guess you have something in common, there. :mrgreen:

I'll indulge. :wink: Your bestest pal Chris Swartz has a piece on cambering: Here

 

[Jacob]

...
I'll indulge. :wink: Your bestest pal Chris Swartz has a piece on cambering: Here

Interesting. What he does basically is press hard to camber as though the jig isn't there. It'd be a lot easier without the jig.
All those figures are a touch spurious too, they just give an air of authority to it. He says it himself more or less:
"The honest truth is you just need to learn what the right curve looks like when you show the cutting edge to a straight edge. If there is too much curve, sharpen some more in the middle position (5) to flatten the curve. If the curve is too flat, add more finger pressure or strokes at the corners to increase the curvature."
Putting a camber on a blade with a straight bevel as he is doing, is not easy. The sensible way is to shape the blade first, square on - effectively a 90º bevel, and then sharpen that.
His way is the timid way of someone who doesn't want to be parted from the training wheels, but is unnecessarily difficult. Impossible I imagine, if he had to sharpen a scrub plane blade or s steeper camber. Which done freehand is extremely easy.

 

[DTR]

Putting a camber on a blade with a straight bevel as he is doing, is not easy. The sensible way is to shape the blade first, square on - effectively a 90º bevel, and then sharpen that.

IIRC Schwarz does advocate that method too

 

[Phil Pascoe]

:shock: :lol: :lol: Probably wrong... =D> =D> =D> =D>

 

[Trafalgar]

Camber is essential for most plane blades but the jiggers go on and on about flatness and straight edges. How does Dave get a camber with his 5 bevel system (precise, repeatable, etc etc)?

Where exactly (apart from in your own exaggerating mind) do these jiggers go on-and-on about flatness and straight edges. You yourself go on-and-on ad nauseum about Freehand, though - guess you have something in common, there. :mrgreen:

I'll indulge. :wink: Your bestest pal Chris Swartz has a piece on cambering: Here

A camber is a curve through the thickness of a thing. It would be thicker in the middle than at the edges. It's possible Schwarz is doing this but for the most part he (and we) are simply shaping the end of the blade to a curve. It's curved in elevation, i.e. if you look at the cutter from the back, then end is shaped in a curve. This is not camber. To view camber, one would have to look at the bevel straight-on, at eye level, and see the thickness taper from the middle to both edges. This can be achieved on thick plane irons, like those found on scrub planes. It's very difficult to introduce real camber in a thin plane iron, or at least to any degree that matters.

A cambered and curved blade is curved in two planes.

 

[carlb40]

Camber is essential for most plane blades but the jiggers go on and on about flatness and straight edges. How does Dave get a camber with his 5 bevel system (precise, repeatable, etc etc)?

Where exactly (apart from in your own exaggerating mind) do these jiggers go on-and-on about flatness and straight edges. You yourself go on-and-on ad nauseum about Freehand, though - guess you have something in common, there. :mrgreen:

I'll indulge. :wink: Your bestest pal Chris Swartz has a piece on cambering: Here

A camber is a curve through the thickness of a thing. It would be thicker in the middle than at the edges. It's possible Schwarz is doing this but for the most part he (and we) are simply shaping the end of the blade to a curve. It's curved in elevation, i.e. if you look at the cutter from the back, then end is shaped in a curve. This is not camber. To view camber, one would have to look at the bevel straight-on, at eye level, and see the thickness taper from the middle to both edges. This can be achieved on thick plane irons, like those found on scrub planes. It's very difficult to introduce real camber in a thin plane iron, or at least to any degree that matters.

A cambered and curved blade is curved in two planes.

Does it matter which 2 planes?

I have a 4 1/2 and no6 will they do?
:mrgreen:

 

[Jacob]

Camber is essential for most plane blades but the jiggers go on and on about flatness and straight edges. How does Dave get a camber with his 5 bevel system (precise, repeatable, etc etc)?

Where exactly (apart from in your own exaggerating mind) do these jiggers go on-and-on about flatness and straight edges. You yourself go on-and-on ad nauseum about Freehand, though - guess you have something in common, there. :mrgreen:

I'll indulge. :wink: Your bestest pal Chris Swartz has a piece on cambering: Here

A camber is a curve through the thickness of a thing. It would be thicker in the middle than at the edges. It's possible Schwarz is doing this but for the most part he (and we) are simply shaping the end of the blade to a curve. It's curved in elevation, i.e. if you look at the cutter from the back, then end is shaped in a curve. This is not camber. To view camber, one would have to look at the bevel straight-on, at eye level, and see the thickness taper from the middle to both edges. This can be achieved on thick plane irons, like those found on scrub planes. It's very difficult to introduce real camber in a thin plane iron, or at least to any degree that matters.

A cambered and curved blade is curved in two planes.

Just seems to mean curved, arched etc in most uses. Usually applies to shallow curves - a bit like "fall" as applied to shallow inclines.
As far as the woodwork tool sense is concerned there is no problem cambering a blade, thick or thin. Unless you use a jig of course. :lol:

 

[David C]

A most excellent post from Chris.

It's a pity that Jacob seems incapable of understanding it. There is absolutely no need to grind a curved edge for such a small curve. For large ones like a scrub plane it would make sense.

David

 

[Jacob]

A most excellent post from Chris.

It's a pity that Jacob seems incapable of understanding it. There is absolutely no need to grind a curved edge for such a small curve. ......

It's easier to control the shape if you grind it, rather trying to force it against a jig the way Schwarzey is having to do. Or easier to do it his way if you take it out of the jig first.
Basically it's a bit stupid and clumsy to grind the thing first and then try to shape it by honing. Even more stupid to try to shape it whilst it's in a jig - a device designed to prevent you from getting other shapes.
What does he do for the next trick, escape from a locked trunk underwater or something?
It's a funny old media circus!!

 

[Sgian Dubh]

I'm confused. Has anyone yet worked out how to sharpen a chisel or plane iron? Or is the task too taxing for anyone to master? If someone has worked out 'The Secret', could they please tell me because I'm concerned my efforts at sharpening over the years have somehow been, well, er, hopelessly inadequate.

On the other hand, on a less ironic note, perhaps this pointless (or is it merely point scoring?) discussion needs putting to bed, or maybe better still, buried, cremated, exterminated - choose your preferred means for letting it slide off the radar. Slainte.

 

[MMUK]

perhaps this pointless (or is it merely point scoring?) discussion needs putting to bed

That comment will start a bradawl sharpening thread next :lol:

 

[Woodmonkey]

I've got a great jig for sharpening my bradawl, takes all the guesswork out

 

[carlb40]

I've got a great jig for sharpening my bradawl, takes all the guesswork out

Ahhh but this thread is about bevels, sooooooo how many bevels on your bradawl? :mrgreen:

 

[Cheshirechappie]

Has anyone yet worked out how to sharpen a chisel or plane iron?
Slainte.

You'll need one of these, Richard.

http://img.frbiz.com/pic/z2792c9d-0x0-0 ... m_6025.jpg

It can be programmed for single or multiple bevels, rounded bevels, back bevels, front bevels, skew bevels, cambered bevels, no bevels at all and bradawls; and as you can see from the photograph, it even has flashing coloured lights on a stalk. What more could you want?

 

[MIGNAL]

Is that an Eclipse? Does it do router Plane blades though? If it doesn't I'm not buying it or I'm going to wait for the MK III to come out.

 

[carlb40]

Has anyone yet worked out how to sharpen a chisel or plane iron?
Slainte.

You'll need one of these, Richard.

http://img.frbiz.com/pic/z2792c9d-0x0-0 ... m_6025.jpg

It can be programmed for single or multiple bevels, rounded bevels, back bevels, front bevels, skew bevels, cambered bevels, no bevels at all and bradawls; and as you can see from the photograph, it even has flashing coloured lights on a stalk. What more could you want?

Does it come in different colours? :mrgreen:

 

[MMUK]

it even has flashing coloured lights on a stalk.

OK, that's me sold. Where do I place my deposit? :lol:

 

[Sgian Dubh]

Has anyone yet worked out how to sharpen a chisel or plane iron?
Slainte.

You'll need one of these, Richard.

I'm trying to decide if it's overly complicated for my needs, or if it's not involved enough. Whilst I'm weighing up the pros and cons I guess I'll just have to rub along (pun intended) with my loosey goosey slip-shod methods of a grindstone, a bench stone or two, and the palm of my hand to act as a strop with a bit of blade flipping.

Will this be good enough in the interim with which to hack at wood do you think? I've always struggled to get a plane to plane and a chisel to chisel, and wonder if this is limiting my work? Slainte.