Old back saw restoration advice

[markturner]

Hi, I got this saw recently with a job lot of old tools and whilst its nothing special, I fancied returning it to a better state.

Now, the blade was a bit corroded and needs a sharpen, but its not terrible. I cleaned it up a bit, but I don't think I can get it much better than it is now:



There are noticeable marks on it and still evidence of old pitting. So first questions relate to the blade: Will the lack of smoothness and shiny finish affect its operation? How easy are blades to replace, bearing in mind the brass back is quite nice - can they be replaced easily? Where can I get it sharpened and or the blade replaced?

The handle was pretty crappy and broken, so I copied it and remade it in rosewood:



I am pretty pleased how it came out for a first attempt. Here is the handle laying on the saw so you can see how it will look:



I think now the new handle and the shiny back will make the old blade look crappy...what do you think?

 

[AndyT]

You might get a better result on the blade with Autosol and foil https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/cleaning-rusty-saws-with-autosol-t73647.html
But in my experience little pits don't matter.
That's a really good looking handle!

 

[bugbear]

That's a really good looking handle!

Agreed - but from my experience, it might need a little more rounding - it's very easy and tempting to only "remove the corners", as opposed to making a proper round (or ellipse).

post735074.html?hilit=superellipse#p735074

It's easy to make the outer (black) shapes when you should be targeting the cyan or red ones.

BugBear

 

[RogerP]

Where can I get it sharpened and or the blade replaced?

In early years tradesmen usually sharpened their own saws so why give it a go? It's not really that difficult and won't take very long once you've got to grips with the procedure.

You'll need the right size saw-file. There's a chart and some instructions here but don't get bogged down too much in the wordy text.

http://www.vintagesaws.com/library/primer/sharp.html,

 

[markturner]

Hi Bugbear, which bits are you referring to? It's pretty much exactly the same as the old handle. On my Lie Nielsen saws, the edges apart from where your fingers wrap are dead square...... I preferred the slight round I gave them.

Lets assume I decide to change the blade....is this possible retaining the old brass back?

 

[RogerP]

How to make a saw ...
http://handsaw-maker.blogspot.co.uk/

 

[Tony Zaffuto]

Use the blade from an appropriately sized drywall taping knife. Fairly cheap to experiment with making a new plate, though you may have to tighten the folded back a bit.

 

[Racers]

Err, Drywall taping knife?

Don't think we have then over here.

Pete

 

[Tony Zaffuto]

Err, Drywall taping knife?

Don't think we have then over here.

Pete

You have me puzzled as to how drywall is finished over there Pete!!!!!

If need be, I'll send one over.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

They're normally known as caulkers, but they're usually plastic.

 

[Tony Zaffuto]

They're normally known as caulkers, but they're usually plastic.

Thanks!

I was not aware of the difference. Maybe there could be a market in exporting our American "caulking" tools to the UK. In any case, I would retract my suggestion to use that sort of tool as a source of steel for a replacement saw plate.

 

[Jacob]

You don't "replace" blades you buy another saw. The blade is the saw.
You could fit your new handle and the old back if you really want to but it'd probably be a bit pointless.
Rust doesn't affect performance in any way once the surface has been rubbed up a bit smoother by a bit of use. Pits ditto, unless they are so bad that you get teeth breaking off when being set (or used). If this happens too often and subsequent sharpenings don't rectify this, then bin the saw

 

[woodbrains]

Hello,

We can get carbon steel taping knives over here. Marshall Town and Ragni both available, I suspect, amongst others. I've never seen one wide enough for a back saw blade, but then I'm not a plasterer. I have one about 6 in wide.

Mike.

 

[Vann]

Err, Drywall taping knife?

Don't think we have then over here.

Pete

Hah, and who says English is the universal language?!!!??

Over here I think we'd call that a Gibraltar board (or gib board) taping knife, but it's about the same as a wide scraper (those wooden handled, steel bladed knives, as made by Crown or Footprint).

Right, that's done - I'll just pop outside for a ***.. (hammer)

Cheers, Vann.

 

[Cheshirechappie]

Thar's a nice saw, by a very old-established and respected maker. I have one similar (8" dovetail in my case) that I bought new in the mid 1980s; mine has 'Tyzack, Sons and Turner plc' stamped on it, so I suspect that yours is an earlier one - maybe late 1970s.

The blade, if it's straight, will be fine - no need to replace it - you don't need shiny, just smooth. Following AndyT's advice with the Autosol and aluminium foil will work wonders for the smoothness, and surprisingly quickly too. I also tend to agree with Bugbear on handgrip shape; the more rounded the blending, the more comfortably the finished handle sits in the hand.

The toothline looks to be quite straight and even, so not much work will be needed to tickle it up. Try very lightly jointing the tips of the teeth to ensure they're all at the same height, then following the angles for rake and fleam on the existing teeth (near enough). File slowly, one stroke at a time, and monitor carefully how much you're taking off. Stop as soon as the flat left by jointing is gone. You may even find that the saw cuts nicely after a tickle with the file without needing a reset - most manufacturers tend to overset the teeth, so you can use what set is left after a light filing.

That will be a very nice saw - good weight, nice piece of steel for the blade, comfortable handle.

 

[jimi43]

Hi Mark

That's a really nice backsaw...and the handle is superb...nice one mate.

Regarding the contour on handles...there have been a variety of contours over the years from rounded flat to almost semi-circular but at the end of the day if it fits comfortably in your hand the way you have shaped it then that's the shape it should be...IMHO.

As far as plate replacement...you could go the whole hog and get a new one..or you can just sharpen that one either yourself, or by a saw sharpening service of which there are many.

I know for sure that I would never get as good at sharpening saws as my favourite sharpening guy (Pedder) so he gets mine and I get to use them.

I don't know if you remember but one I sent over to Germany was beyond sharpening...so he replaced the plate:

Picture

If you consider the mark and handle worth new steel then this is the way to go and I did with this one but again...your choice to decide if it's worth it. I should think that sharpening was the way to go on a newer saw if the existing steel is otherwise ok.

Jim

 

[bugbear]

When I spoke of rounding, I did indeed mean the part you hold (and want to be comfortable...)

Take a look at Pedder's saws:
e.g.
http://breseplane.blogspot.co.uk/2011/0 ... oblem.html

... or this old example; while the faces may be flat, the round is very "complete". Note also the slight extra material removed for the thumb (at least if you're right handed)

BugBear

 

[markturner]

Hi gents, thank you for the advice and the compliment Jimi - that's high praise coming from you!

I think I will go for changing the blade, it looks too manky and will only annoy me, against the rest of the saw.....

I am however going to have a bash at sharpening shortly - I have another saw that needs a tickle up, so will let you know how I got on. Thanks again,

 

[Phil Pascoe]

It'll end up like Trigger's broom...

 

[jimi43]

I think your grandad would be proud of his grandson getting his saws replated! :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

I'm sure if a backsaw had my name on it's spine I would want to get it sorted.

One advantage on getting the steel replaced is that you can chose how it's cut! Like the handle...you can choose the contour on that too...and if you don't get on with it you have the skills now to get the old rasp out and trim it any way you want!

As you say...you have the old teeth to play with and that would be fun for you to try out your sharpening skills.

Personally...I have huge respect for saw sharpeners...I simply don't have the patience or the skill to do this....

Post whatever you decide...I should be interested to see the outcome.

Again...thanks for posting your work...

=D>

Jimi