Oak vs Beech worktops - is Oak worth the Premium?

[morfa]

I have three worktops, one oak, one sycamore and one iroko. The iroko one is definitely the worst. The oak is ok, but not amazing. In fact I'd tend to agree with those who suggest not to use wood. Unless you're going to keep it spotless and re-oil it from time to time it's probably not going to be much fun. Mine are lasting ok, but I spent a lot of time oiling them when I made them.

Interested to know that some people don't recommend stone. I'd vaguely been thinking of replacing them with some kind of stone. Assumed that'd be low maintenance and very durable, yet stay looking nice?

 

[RobinBHM]

I have three worktops, one oak, one sycamore and one iroko. The iroko one is definitely the worst. The oak is ok, but not amazing. In fact I'd tend to agree with those who suggest not to use wood. Unless you're going to keep it spotless and re-oil it from time to time it's probably not going to be much fun. Mine are lasting ok, but I spent a lot of time oiling them when I made them.

Interested to know that some people don't recommend stone. I'd vaguely been thinking of replacing them with some kind of stone. Assumed that'd be low maintenance and very durable, yet stay looking nice?

I would have imagined iroko would be make a good worktop. Id be interested in some feedback why youve found it the worst?

Stone is very durable, I expect granite would last about 10,000 years however the gloos black granites do show up water marks as they are so reflective so if oyu want that permanent showroon look you will be wiping the surfaces quite often. Certainly low maintenance compared to timber. I believe granite is a bit porous? Certainly marble type stones are quite porous and are damaged be certain chemicals, acetic acid for eg.

 

[Ttrees]

I would have imagined iroko would be make a good worktop. Id be interested in some feedback why youve found it the worst?
.

+1 Very interested also
Tom

 

[pcb1962]

My beech-block worktops are 10 years old and still look good as new.
A scrape with a cabinet scraper and a new coat or three of Danish oil every couple of years is all the maintenance they need.

 

[AJB Temple]

I made thick Iroko worktops for a large kitchen and also a utility room. Danish oiled them (there are better finishes now). They looked fantastic. Extremely practical. I would not hesitate to use Iroko again.

I also like oak in another house. I am quite partial to the scrubbed whitewood effect you can get with it. Will probably do that again in my next one.

 

[bugbear]

I think my "Xey" kitchen units that came with the house (bought in 1996) may date back to the late 1970's.

The worktop is good old chipboard with laminate on it. It receives no maintenance and is still in nearly perfect condition.

The only failure point is under the outer edge, at the sink, where water has run down-and-round, and the under
side of the chipboard is not protected.

BugBear

 

[Phil Pascoe]

My beech-block worktops are 10 years old and still look good as new.
A scrape with a cabinet scraper and a new coat or three of Danish oil every couple of years is all the maintenance they need.

I'd think that to most people that's loads of maintenance?

 

[morfa]

I have three worktops, one oak, one sycamore and one iroko. The iroko one is definitely the worst. The oak is ok, but not amazing. In fact I'd tend to agree with those who suggest not to use wood. Unless you're going to keep it spotless and re-oil it from time to time it's probably not going to be much fun. Mine are lasting ok, but I spent a lot of time oiling them when I made them.

Interested to know that some people don't recommend stone. I'd vaguely been thinking of replacing them with some kind of stone. Assumed that'd be low maintenance and very durable, yet stay looking nice?

I would have imagined iroko would be make a good worktop. Id be interested in some feedback why youve found it the worst?

Several reasons, firstly I found the dust to be horrible. Secondly it was rather hard to work and there is a certain amount of tear out on all the worktops. Finally even though it's treated with Osmo (as are the other two) it seems to stain the most. So it looks by far and away the scruffiest. However it is next to the cooker, so I do suspect any other worktop would have the same issue.

I will admit that if you've got a top notch P/T you can hopefully work around the grain and reduce the tear out. If you've got a better finishing method, again it might last better.

 

[paulrockliffe]

I have iroko, you're right dust is terrible. And having no experience of it's strength I did the cut out for a 900 wide hob in a 3m length with a router doing the last 10mm in-situ so I didn't have to move it once weakened - had to bring the workshop extractor in for that job! No issues with tear-out though, even the end grain took a bevel from the router without complaint.

I would discount the work involved to fit because it's nothing in terms of the time they'll be in your kitchen for.

I sacrificed the look a tiny bit and gave the tops about 5 coats of Sadolin IP67, which is a 2-pack varnish, basically a very thin epoxy. I think they look great, though perhaps not quite as nice as oiled, but the wood is completely isolated from everything going on in the kitchen, so they're zero maintenance, which is a good compromise I think.