Oak Butchers Block Kitchen Island

[James Howard]

So i'm currently yin the process of fitting out and equipping a new workshop at home, but being the impatient child I am, I am looking ahead to some of the projects I want to get underway early next year

This is one of the first ones I have started sketching out, a Butchers Block style Kitchen Island with a solid oak top, storage drawers and a base rack

Everything 'wood' colour will be oak, everything painted I am considering using something not so expensive

My question is this:

What wood types would you guys be looking at using for the legs and support struts of this, considering the top alone will eight about 130kg

Also where do you guys get your wood from? I'm base din Essex and very much new to the wood working scene, going from proper amateur to home based hobbyist

Thoughts welcome please!!

 

[MikeG.]

That isn't a butcher's block style unit. They're end-grain. But to answer your question.....anything will do. Almost any wood you can think of, and any wood you can buy in Essex, would support that top. If you are anywhere near Colchester I would suggest visiting Thorogood Timber, Ardleigh, who are very helpful and keep great stocks.

 

[James Howard]

Yep noted...not a fan of the end grain look but fan of the thickness/size/majesty of them and i've just come to term sin my head that i'm calling it a butchers block...i've said ti so many times now its become normal

You are of course right though!!

I have been on their site already, im only about 10 miles form colchester so may well contact them! As i'm painting it would come down more to a cost issue rather than an aesthetic one!

Want to save the majority of my budget for the oak!

 

[MikeG.]

I've just looked up your location. You're within 4 or 5 miles of me. Thorogoods is definitely your best option. Buy some of their furniture-grade pine, or tulip-wood for the painted timber........but I'd also urge you to take another look at your design. There is nothing much resisting racking, as you have removed the normal rails from the legs and put one instead in the middle of cross-rails. You are in danger of having a big heavy floppy table. If it is free-standing in the middle of a room I would definitely re-design the frame. If it is fixed to another unit, or a post or wall, then you might be OK as drawn.

 

[sammy.se]

Sorry to (slightly) digress. I'm in the west part of Essex - any recommendations for timber merchants in that area? Thorogood Timber is an hour away - which is ok, but something closer is even better

OP- I really like the aesthetics of your table. Will the painted parts be matt? Or have some sheen?

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

 

[MikeG.]

Sorry Sam, I've never bought wood anywhere near your location.

 

[James Howard]

It's currently freestanding and yes...this was one of my concerns that i'm trying to workaround as I go

This is the aesthetic I want to go for, I now just need to figure out a way to make sure it is as stable as I want without compromising the look

I don't even have my workshop sorted yet so I have plenty of time to perfect this...I always like to think 27 steps ahead though 8)

I've just looked up your location. You're within 4 or 5 miles of me. Thorogoods is definitely your best option. Buy some of their furniture-grade pine, or tulip-wood for the painted timber........but I'd also urge you to take another look at your design. There is nothing much resisting racking, as you have removed the normal rails from the legs and put one instead in the middle of cross-rails. You are in danger of having a big heavy floppy table. If it is free-standing in the middle of a room I would definitely re-design the frame. If it is fixed to another unit, or a post or wall, then you might be OK as drawn.

 

[James Howard]

Also...small world eh!!

So one thing that I haven't added yet is that I plan to add some blocks to the bottom of the top, two on each end, glued to the top and then fixed to the cross beams with 10mm oak dowels (i'll add some drawings later)

I also had one thought, with regards to the racking issue, of cutting a tenon into the top of the legs and a corresponding mortice in the table top...

Thoughts?

My plan with the blocks attaching by dowels (as per the walnut breadboard table @thirdcoastcraftsmen did) is so that if I ever move house, I can take the top off and transport the table in two pieces as opposed to one 250/300kg table!

But hey...i'm here for peer reviewing...the scientist inside me needs it

I've just looked up your location. You're within 4 or 5 miles of me. Thorogoods is definitely your best option. Buy some of their furniture-grade pine, or tulip-wood for the painted timber........but I'd also urge you to take another look at your design. There is nothing much resisting racking, as you have removed the normal rails from the legs and put one instead in the middle of cross-rails. You are in danger of having a big heavy floppy table. If it is free-standing in the middle of a room I would definitely re-design the frame. If it is fixed to another unit, or a post or wall, then you might be OK as drawn.

 

[MikeG.]

If you want it stable, yet have the top removable, then through tenons in the worktop aren't going to help you. Blocks on the the underside of the top also aren't going to help, because they have no way of accounting for shrinkage. I would suggest stretchers below the drawers securely tenoned into the legs. You might also perhaps consider a blacksmith made bent-rod bracket from, say, the middle of the legs up to the middle of the underside of the drawers on each side of the table. There are a number of possible solutions, and the choice is simply one of aesthetics.............but be assured, you definitely need a solution. It won't be strong enough as is.

 

[James Howard]

A stretcher either side under the drawers sounds like a sensible idea actually...it won't ruin the aesthetics and will add the strength as you say...

Food for thought...thank you

Every day is a school day!

If you want it stable, yet have the top removable, then through tenons in the worktop aren't going to help you. Blocks on the the underside of the top also aren't going to help, because they have no way of accounting for shrinkage. I would suggest stretchers below the drawers securely tenoned into the legs. You might also perhaps consider a blacksmith made bent-rod bracket from, say, the middle of the legs up to the middle of the underside of the drawers on each side of the table. There are a number of possible solutions, and the choice is simply one of aesthetics.............but be assured, you definitely need a solution. It won't be strong enough as is.