Oak bench finish (outdoor)

[Superneutrino]

Hi folks... Amateur here!

Im putting together a remembrance bench with cast iron ends (plus stainless fixtures that is going to be out in the elements and i want it to be as bomb proof as possible.

I have slats from european oak and i was wondering if something like Barratine clear wood preservative followed by 3-5 coats of yacht varnish (brand to be determined) would work?

- Can i layer the yacht varnish over the preservative nicely?

- what are the best products to use?

- anything i really need to consider?

- are their better options?

I know any wood outside is going to need maintainance, but the opportunity to do so in this case is limited, so trying to belt and brace as much as possible!

Amy advice from you gurus would be wonderful! Thanks!

 

[MorrisWoodman12]

@Superneutrino Hi! I too put yatch varnish on the oak slats of my garden bench. Looked marvellous for a year or two but then started to peel and then looked terrible. Now after probably five years it's just about all off and the oak has weathered to that silvery grey that oak goes. Looks better.
I think you'll find a majority of members here will advise you to leave it to go silver.
Have fun
Martin

 

[Superneutrino]

@Superneutrino Hi! I too put yatch varnish on the oak slats of my garden bench. Looked marvellous for a year or two but then started to peel and then looked terrible. Now after probably five years it's just about all off and the oak has weathered to that silvery grey that oak goes. Looks better.
I think you'll find a majority of members here will advise you to leave it to go silver.
Have fun
Martin

Should i still look at hitting it with the preservative?

It will be quite exposed and under a tree so and i really want to keep it looking good for as long as possible!

 

[deema]

Bench slats are always troublesome as they dont shed water. Ideally all surfaces should be at a minimum angle of 9 degrees to shed water. Water is brutal, it can get through anything given enough time, so what ever you put on the surface will deteriorate and need maintenance.

If it were me as suggested I’d leave it and let it silver with time. It will rot as water will just sit on the surface, but should last a good long time.
If your looking to maintain a ‘nice new wood surface’ I would use the following:

https://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/varmain.html

 

[whereistheceilidh]

You may find that the oak goes blue/black where it is in contact with the iron. Paint the iron with a metal paint (Hammerite?) to prevent this. There are marine protective oils rather than varnish that can be a better option on the oak.

 

[Superneutrino]

You may find that the oak goes blue/black where it is in contact with the iron. Paint the iron with a metal paint (Hammerite?) to prevent this. There are marine protective oils rather than varnish that can be a better option on the oak.

Yea the iron is going to be completely refinished and the fixings stainless.

Do you have any recommendations for the oils?

Can/should they be used in addition to a clear wood preservative like Barratine?

 

[HOJ]

@deema have you experience of the Tonkinois finish, I regularly get to make these Oak benches:




But I've always declined to put a finish on them for fear it will degrade.

 

[Superneutrino]

@deema have you experience of the Tonkinois finish, I regularly get to make these Oak benches:

View attachment 173801


But I've always declined to put a finish on them for fear it will degrade.

What have you used in terms of treatments etc up to now?

 

[HOJ]

What have you used in terms of treatments etc up to now?

declined to put a finish on them

 

[MF1000]

Le Tonkinois Linseed Oil Varnish No.1

Fast drying Linseed Oil varnish. Reapply only after 8 hours of dry time. Le Tonkinois No. 1 has been more refined compared to the Classic Le Tonkinois (below) and has some slightly different characteristics. Probably the world's best varnish for your home or for any marine application. This varnish does not peel or crack. It will be absorbed by the wood over time. Can be recoated after 3-5 years. Maintain the linseed oil varnish in very exposed surfaces by doing a light hand sanding and then apply a new coat.

 

[deema]

I use Tonkinous if I have to use varnish externally. In my opinion the best you can buy. Like all varnish though it does need maintenance, but less than any other again IMO.

 

[Keith Cocker]

I agree with the suggestion to let it weather silver grey. We bough a bench table and chairs in 1989 in untreated oak for the garden and it’s still going strong in the wet and windy Lancashire Pennines.

 

[TominDales]

I've come to this a bit late, so comments probably irrelevant now. I agree with above, not to use any treatment as they all degrade over time and look worse than natural weathered oak.
one thing that does help slow the rot is to roundover the edges so that water runs off more easily, either with a 1/4 inch router roundover or you can plan/spokeshave and sand by hand, but could be as many as 48 edges so takes a while.

I re-slated a bench 20 years ago and put on some quality danish oil. its looked great for two years, then got bad and eventually fully rotted off and the bench has been fine since. If it goes green under the tree - two suggestions, cover over the winder if possible. or give it a wash/scrub with dilute jays fluid each spring. that gets all the green off for 12 months or so.

 

[Superneutrino]

I've come to this a bit late, so comments probably irrelevant now. I agree with above, not to use any treatment as they all degrade over time and look worse than natural weathered oak.
one thing that does help slow the rot is to roundover the edges so that water runs off more easily, either with a 1/4 inch router roundover or you can plan/spokeshave and sand by hand, but could be as many as 48 edges so takes a while.

I re-slated a bench 20 years ago and put on some quality danish oil. its looked great for two years, then got bad and eventually fully rotted off and the bench has been fine since. If it goes green under the tree - two suggestions, cover over the winder if possible. or give it a wash/scrub with dilute jays fluid each spring. that gets all the green off for 12 months or so.

Not late to the party at all!

Its taken me a while to have the time to actually get it done!

Slats are all rounded over and ready to go and was hoping to get more done in the coming weeks!

So from general feedback im going without the finish.

However, would it still be prudent to use a wood preservative? (like barratine)

 

[Mrs C]

The varnishes/oils suggested above are used to keep the wood dry to prevent it rotting which is the same as your wood preserver.

If recycling wood and spot any old woodworm holes I always treat for woodworm just in case.

Good oak should last for donkeys years even without help. We have just inherited an oak bench which must be at least 70 years old; it has been thoroughly neglected but is still going strong.

So to answer your question it’s your choice!

 

[johnnyb]

The only method that lasts a bit longer I'm aware of is preserver, clear penetrating epoxy sealer then le tonkinois et al. Yacht style.even epifanes. This will last longest 100%

 

[Jake]

I like Sioo for this, it's a breathable clear silane (hydrophilic) treatment. Doesn't form a film so the peeling you usually get with oak isn't an issue. You get an even silver colour quickly (it has a pretreatment to help that along which I am pretty sure is just a peroxide bleach). It keeps silver pretty even for a few years.

 

[--Tom--]

Not late to the party at all!

Its taken me a while to have the time to actually get it done!

Slats are all rounded over and ready to go and was hoping to get more done in the coming weeks!

So from general feedback im going without the finish.

However, would it still be prudent to use a wood preservative? (like barratine)

No harm in use the clear oil based preserver. Will soak in and slow down any decay. The wood will still weather to gray.

 

[johnnyb]

https://www.makewoodgood.co.uk/product/cpes-clear-penetrating-epoxy-sealer/?gad_source=1