One quick thought if some work will be on display. You might like to use some stainless steel or chrome plated copper pipes. I'm pretty sure that you can't solder to those so would have to use compression or pushfit fittings.
Novice copper pipe soldering
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Richard_C
Established Member
Just adding to whats been said really.
I've done my kitchen, one bathroom and downstairs utility/toilet rooms without problem, all self taught. I've not done radiators before. The person who installed our house when it was built might not have done either judging by the creaks and groans every time it starts up - pipes need room to expand without rubbing against the joists.
I had a tendency with end feed to put in 'a bit extra just in case' when I started out, the joints look messy. You quickly get the feel for it and stop adding solder when you see a complete ring all the way around. It's very satisfying. I've got an old camping gaz branded blowlamp (must be 40+ years old) which does the job, you can get butane propane mix canisters for it and for most blowlamps. They are a bit more efficient than just butane, especially if you are working out of doors in winter. Neither comes close to MAPP but are hot enough for pipe soldering if you already have a blowlamp.
By way of self-training, you can always re-heat and pull apart a couple of joints and that will give you a good idea of how well the solder flowed into the joint. You could test yourself by making up a closed circuit with just one open end (T, 3 bends, 5 short lengths of tube) , carefully fill it with water under a tap then pop a hose on to the open end with jubilee clip and bring up to full pressure. No leaks - hose will blow off first. Hardly necessary but might add to confidence.
Did somebody mention clean .....
I've done my kitchen, one bathroom and downstairs utility/toilet rooms without problem, all self taught. I've not done radiators before. The person who installed our house when it was built might not have done either judging by the creaks and groans every time it starts up - pipes need room to expand without rubbing against the joists.
I had a tendency with end feed to put in 'a bit extra just in case' when I started out, the joints look messy. You quickly get the feel for it and stop adding solder when you see a complete ring all the way around. It's very satisfying. I've got an old camping gaz branded blowlamp (must be 40+ years old) which does the job, you can get butane propane mix canisters for it and for most blowlamps. They are a bit more efficient than just butane, especially if you are working out of doors in winter. Neither comes close to MAPP but are hot enough for pipe soldering if you already have a blowlamp.
By way of self-training, you can always re-heat and pull apart a couple of joints and that will give you a good idea of how well the solder flowed into the joint. You could test yourself by making up a closed circuit with just one open end (T, 3 bends, 5 short lengths of tube) , carefully fill it with water under a tap then pop a hose on to the open end with jubilee clip and bring up to full pressure. No leaks - hose will blow off first. Hardly necessary but might add to confidence.
Did somebody mention clean .....
xy mosian
Established Member
If I might add to all the excellent advice above.
I was advised to clean, flux and assemble the joint. Then to turn the fitting around the pipe, or 'tother way around, to ensure the flux was spread completely around the joint.
You will be fine.
xy
I was advised to clean, flux and assemble the joint. Then to turn the fitting around the pipe, or 'tother way around, to ensure the flux was spread completely around the joint.
You will be fine.
xy
Lons
Established Member
Just a couple more points after Eric's excellent post.
Pipe slice is excellent, I have 22 and 15mm sizes as well as several of the handscrew type and would never willingly use a hacksaw note however that they compress and round over the end of the pipe slightly which is great for pushing into fittings but I've found makes it very tight to insert a bending spring so the pipe end can need to be opened out again slightly, easy to do or use a proper bender.
Not meant for the OP but in case of any beginners here,
*Buy a pair of shears to cut plastic pipe rather than a Stanley knife If you can, they are cheap and well worth it.
*Never use a pipe whether copper or plastic with a ragged end on a push fit as it will damage the O ring and probable fail.
*Always use pipe stiffeners, metal ones are thinner and reduce flow less than plastic and practice first with a demount-able fitting so you can open it up with a pipe pushed home and see what it takes using plastic push fit connectors I've seen several instances when the pipe hasn't been pushed fully home where they might not leak initially but will most likely blow off under pressure later. You have to get a feel for them as there are 2 points of resistance and it's easy to think it's done at the first, you have to push fairly hard to get past the second part which is a definite stop. Once you've done a couple mistakes won't happen.
* Support plastic pipe properly, it sags like **** especially when filled with hot water
I was called out to one as a favour and the guy had not only not pushed the pipe fully home but had put Fairy Liquid on it as well, it pumped out a lot of water before they managed to turn the mains off.
On the other hand one of my neighbours in a then 5 year old bungalow called me round to look at damp patches on her hall walls, they were internal walls, concrete floors covered by a floating T&G chipboard floor over polystyrene insulation slabs, I knew instantly what it was as I'd seen 2 other cases over the years. Poorly made or faulty copper joints under the floor "pinhole" leak causing water to run and flood under the insulation and along to the walls, close inspection showed it was very extensive into the bathroom, kitchen, lounge and a bedroom. Told her to contact her insurance company who moved them into rented accommodation, stored their furniture and had repairs carried out over a period of 4 months, I believe the total cost was in excess of £70,000 :shock:
Over the years I've installed a huge amount of pipe, both copper and plastic and apart from minor issues haven't had a problem with either though my own house has a minor leak at the minute from a copper c/h manifold feeding 8mm microbore (cr*p), not my work btw :lol: it's in an awkward place, coupling nut is seized and I'm putting it off until I can get motivated to make a **** of a mess. Did I say I HATE plumbing!
Pipe slice is excellent, I have 22 and 15mm sizes as well as several of the handscrew type and would never willingly use a hacksaw note however that they compress and round over the end of the pipe slightly which is great for pushing into fittings but I've found makes it very tight to insert a bending spring so the pipe end can need to be opened out again slightly, easy to do or use a proper bender.
Not meant for the OP but in case of any beginners here,
*Buy a pair of shears to cut plastic pipe rather than a Stanley knife If you can, they are cheap and well worth it.
*Never use a pipe whether copper or plastic with a ragged end on a push fit as it will damage the O ring and probable fail.
*Always use pipe stiffeners, metal ones are thinner and reduce flow less than plastic and practice first with a demount-able fitting so you can open it up with a pipe pushed home and see what it takes using plastic push fit connectors I've seen several instances when the pipe hasn't been pushed fully home where they might not leak initially but will most likely blow off under pressure later. You have to get a feel for them as there are 2 points of resistance and it's easy to think it's done at the first, you have to push fairly hard to get past the second part which is a definite stop. Once you've done a couple mistakes won't happen.
* Support plastic pipe properly, it sags like **** especially when filled with hot water
I was called out to one as a favour and the guy had not only not pushed the pipe fully home but had put Fairy Liquid on it as well, it pumped out a lot of water before they managed to turn the mains off.
On the other hand one of my neighbours in a then 5 year old bungalow called me round to look at damp patches on her hall walls, they were internal walls, concrete floors covered by a floating T&G chipboard floor over polystyrene insulation slabs, I knew instantly what it was as I'd seen 2 other cases over the years. Poorly made or faulty copper joints under the floor "pinhole" leak causing water to run and flood under the insulation and along to the walls, close inspection showed it was very extensive into the bathroom, kitchen, lounge and a bedroom. Told her to contact her insurance company who moved them into rented accommodation, stored their furniture and had repairs carried out over a period of 4 months, I believe the total cost was in excess of £70,000 :shock:
Over the years I've installed a huge amount of pipe, both copper and plastic and apart from minor issues haven't had a problem with either though my own house has a minor leak at the minute from a copper c/h manifold feeding 8mm microbore (cr*p), not my work btw :lol: it's in an awkward place, coupling nut is seized and I'm putting it off until I can get motivated to make a **** of a mess. Did I say I HATE plumbing!
