Kittyhawk
Established Member
Sometimes it's just good fun to leave the aircraftery for a little while and make some things for yourself that you really need, especially when it's all from scrap.
Not an aeroplane.
- Thread starter Kittyhawk
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Solicitus
Established Member
Nice. Clearly more than one strong to your bow.
Kittyhawk
Established Member
You're on the money, and a brilliant pun!Nice. Clearly more than one strong to your bow.
The pouch and rope thing is a bow stringer. There are two never-fail ways to destroy a bow. The first is to draw and release without an arrow - to dry fire the bow, and the second is to string the bow without a bow stringer as this can impose large stresses on the limbs.
The alloy thing is a bow square. It is used to set up the bow to shoot correctly as there are a lot of variables involved. The first thing to do is set the brace height. This is simply the measurement between the deepest part of the hand grip and the bow string. To do this you clip the short arm of the bow square onto the bow string and position it so that the long arm sits on the arrow rest. On commercially made bow squares the long arm is normally about 12 inches but I shoot a recurve where the brace height is typically between 6 - 7 inches. Adjustment is made by adding or removing twists from the bowstring. Interesting thing about brace height is that you can adjust it depending on the range of your target. My draw length - how far I pull back the bow string is 28 inches. If the brace height is 7 inches then the arrow is being actively propelled by the string for 21 inches. If the brace height is reduced to 5 inches then the arrow is propelled for 23 inches. This imparts more speed but reduces accuracy. At 7 inches less speed but greater accuracy so you have to take your pick.
The numbers on the short arm of the square are to set the nocking point - where the arrow's nock is set to the bowstring. With the bowsquare on the string and the long arm on the arrow rest them the '0' is exactly a right angle between the bowstring and the arrow rest. The default nocking point is about 1/4 inch above this. Then you need to shoot off at least 20 arrows and have someone check the flight. Straight and true then you've fluked it. More likely the arrow will weave up and down and you need to adjust the nock fractionally up or down until you get straight and true. And all of this is further complicated by the draw weight and what you want to shoot with the bow. In my case, a 700 spine 30 inch arrow with a carbon shaft and a 125 grain point. It takes a while to get it all together.
Sorry, gone on a bit here. That's because I've been out of the sport for a few years and only got back into it because we have a rabbit problem and I wanted to deal to them. But I have rediscovered my love of archery, target shooting only so the rabbits are safe.
Aw, and there I was thinking it was a deadly design for a catapult/slingshot.
Kittyhawk
Established Member
Inspector
Nyuck, Nyuck, Nyuck!
Would that be a Spitfire? has the profile of one.
Pete
Pete
Kittyhawk
Established Member
Y
And I took your advice, kept the el-cheapo Chinese block plane for hacking into it, the Veritas for fine finishing.
You have a good eye. It's a Mk.VB
And I took your advice, kept the el-cheapo Chinese block plane for hacking into it, the Veritas for fine finishing.
Kittyhawk
Established Member
They look like Mk.11's
