Non-traditional workbench construction

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dance

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Hi!

I have found some space to do some woodworking, and in an effort to just get started and not spend ages faffing about without an actual project on the go, I have been reducing my expectations/wishes a little bit as far as my workbench is concerned.

Originally I had intended and hoped to make Tom Casper's torsion box workbench. Now, however, it looks like I'm going to be attaching a wide and long piece of rough ply to the side of my workshop and then attaching legs at the corners. Why rough plywood? Well hopefully because its width (17mm) and weight (heavy) will lend strength to my workbench. But as I'm still going to be attaching a vice, 17mm isn't thick enough - and I don't want the rough surface of the roofing ply to be the finished work surface. I would also like to add a trim of softwood to the sides (with 45 deg. mitred corners) but obviously there isn't the width in 17mm to attach the trim to!

So, any thoughts on how to resolve these problems? I have my own thoughts, but it would be great to have some feedback on them.

I have considered doubling up the ply (attached with glue and screws from underneath) to make a 34mm thick bench, but I don't know if this will help with strength all that much and it's still not a very thick edge to attach my trim and vice to.

As for the rough top surface, I wanted to cover it with a nice bit of knot free higher quality plywood/veneer. What sort of thing should I be asking for at the timber yard? I'm not used to buying plywood at all. And price I should expect to pay per m2?

THANKS!
 
My main bench's top is two layers of 19mm birch ply which has served me well for many years.

I also have a 12ft x 2ft 6in jig table with a ply top which I have finished with a sacrificial surface of 8mm MDF.

I set things out on it, glue on it, sand it clean a few times, then turn it over and abuse that side too before replacing the mdf at very little cost.

Colin.
 
two layers of ply or MDF would be good enough for a bench top provided it has proper support to prevent sag. You want to end up with say a 3x2 at each long edge, one down the middle of the top and a few noggins for strength. Place top on this frame and smooth edges to sides of 3x2s.

For a smooth top cover it with Tempered Hardboard pinned on and trim the edges up with some cheap hardwood.

The 36mm top plus 75 mm edge beam will provide enough purchase for a vice.

It does not have to be pretty but it does have to be flat, smooth and level.

Alan
 
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