No5 Jack How much is too much

[Phil Pascoe]

And I don't smoke, so I have no idea at what the fluid comes in...

Cans that would be extremely difficult to refill.

 

[GLFaria]

Has to be paper backed (not cloth - wrong material altogether for flattening). Though I notice "latex" backed in some ads - don't know if this is the same stuff, probably is - makes sense - the water (or white spirit) helps it stick by "suction".

Paper backed, wet and dry.

 

[Jacob]

Has to be paper backed (not cloth - wrong material altogether for flattening). Though I notice "latex" backed in some ads - don't know if this is the same stuff, probably is - makes sense - the water (or white spirit) helps it stick by "suction".

Paper backed, wet and dry.

OK get a new flat sheet from the pack, lay it on a pool of white spirit on your table (impermeable - steel, plastic, glass etc) pour more on top, wiggle it about and squeeze the liquid from under, gently start the grinding op but pinning the paper down with a finger if it's still floating about. Eventually it is pressed flat and won't move, keep flooding with fluid as necessary.
Store your paper between boards so that it stays flat.

 

[GLFaria]

Has to be paper backed (not cloth - wrong material altogether for flattening). Though I notice "latex" backed in some ads - don't know if this is the same stuff, probably is - makes sense - the water (or white spirit) helps it stick by "suction".

Paper backed, wet and dry.

OK get a new flat sheet from the pack, lay it on a pool of white spirit on your table (impermeable - steel, plastic, glass etc) pour more on top, wiggle it about and squeeze the liquid from under, gently start the grinding op but pinning the paper down with a finger if it's still floating about. Eventually it is pressed flat and won't move, keep flooding with fluid as necessary.
Store your paper between boards so that it stays flat.

Thanks, I will give it a go.

 

[GLFaria]

Has to be paper backed (not cloth - wrong material altogether for flattening). Though I notice "latex" backed in some ads - don't know if this is the same stuff, probably is - makes sense - the water (or white spirit) helps it stick by "suction".

Paper backed, wet and dry.

OK get a new flat sheet from the pack, lay it on a pool of white spirit on your table (impermeable - steel, plastic, glass etc) pour more on top, wiggle it about and squeeze the liquid from under, gently start the grinding op but pinning the paper down with a finger if it's still floating about. Eventually it is pressed flat and won't move, keep flooding with fluid as necessary.
Store your paper between boards so that it stays flat.[/quote]
Thanks, I will give it a go.[/quote]
Eeerr... no, I won't. Just to be sure, I looked into the properties of white spirit. Now, I work in a very confined environment. Ok, open the door and th window? Small window, and the main wind is towards the the door - which leads directly into the kitchen. Now, as behaves a kitchen, all sorts of gas flames may be alight there at any given moment. I wouldn't feel safe.
I think I would better stay with the oil. Thanks anyway.

 

[Bluekingfisher]

Has to be paper backed (not cloth - wrong material altogether for flattening). Though I notice "latex" backed in some ads - don't know if this is the same stuff, probably is - makes sense - the water (or white spirit) helps it stick by "suction".

Paper backed, wet and dry.

OK get a new flat sheet from the pack, lay it on a pool of white spirit on your table (impermeable - steel, plastic, glass etc) pour more on top, wiggle it about and squeeze the liquid from under, gently start the grinding op but pinning the paper down with a finger if it's still floating about. Eventually it is pressed flat and won't move, keep flooding with fluid as necessary.
Store your paper between boards so that it stays flat.

Sorry to labour the point, but have you found the white spirit to be compatible with long term exposure to a cast iron bed of your planer or table saw bed.

You see I'm a little prissy over my gleaming cast iron tool beds and don't relish immovable stains caused by the spirit.

 

[lanemaux]

Hi there Phil. In regards to the tins or plastic bottles that lighter fluid comes in,all the ones I've seen have a pressed on plastic cap with the swivel type nozzle on top. With care and a slotted type screwdriver they pop off fairly well. They are reapplied with just a firm push and seal quite well as the plastic caps are fairly springy. sort of like mounting a really tiny tire. I use mine for any precision lubricating as the baby oil bottle is so clumsy that it ends up lube to floor and not lube to part. As you might remember . a fall with my new and improved crystal bone structure is contraindicated. It is simply amazing how slippery a couple of drops of mineral oil can make a painted concrete floor.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Greetings. I hadn't tried getting the top off one - the need had never arisen.

 

[dunbarhamlin]

How much is too much? One penny more than you are happy to pay. I'm sure Holtey, Marcos et al would make a jack plane for you if you have the budget and the inclination.
How much is enough is probably a better question, and for typical jack usage (as a rough prep tool) very little need be spent.

DC - Mr Grimsdale's point about skipping grits is that scratches at worst do not affect performance, and may indeed reduce stiction, so once preferred tolerances have been reached, it is only neceassry to polish the peaks, not remove the troughs.

BB - for localised high spots straight from the factory, check any unfettled CS88. Goodly sized bump just behind the mouth. As you say, easily remedied.

 

[Jacob]

.............
Paper backed, wet and dry.

OK get a new flat sheet from the pack, lay it on a pool of white spirit on your table (impermeable - steel, plastic, glass etc) pour more on top, wiggle it about and squeeze the liquid from under, gently start the grinding op but pinning the paper down with a finger if it's still floating about. Eventually it is pressed flat and won't move, keep flooding with fluid as necessary.
Store your paper between boards so that it stays flat.

Sorry to labour the point, but have you found the white spirit to be compatible with long term exposure to a cast iron bed of your planer or table saw bed.

You see I'm a little prissy over my gleaming cast iron tool beds and don't relish immovable stains caused by the spirit.

:lol:
Hadn't crossed my mind. Though I wouldn't use water - I don't want things to go rusty.
If you want to do woodwork you have to stop worrying about the shiny newness of your tools - they are going to end up looking used. :shock: Tragic, sad but inevitable.
I've heard that some people are reluctant to use their benches as it could spoil the finish. :roll:

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

DC - Mr Grimsdale's point about skipping grits is that scratches at worst do not affect performance, and may indeed reduce stiction, so once preferred tolerances have been reached, it is only neceassry to polish the peaks, not remove the troughs.

Stiction? Really? At 60 .. 100 .. 240 .. 400 grit? I get stiction on a flat 8000 grit Shapton. I very much doubt that you could induce stiction on a jack plane on coarse sandpaper. :lol:

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[bugbear]

DC - Mr Grimsdale's point about skipping grits is that scratches at worst do not affect performance, and may indeed reduce stiction, so once preferred tolerances have been reached, it is only neceassry to polish the peaks, not remove the troughs.

Stiction? Really? At 60 .. 100 .. 240 .. 400 grit? I get stiction on a flat 8000 grit Shapton. I very much doubt that you could induce stiction on a jack plane on coarse sandpaper. :lol:

Regards from Perth

Derek

Certainly no stiction - may a little vacuum lift at the end of the stroke on small workpieces - you'd need a fully corrugated sole to avoid that, 60 grit won't do it.

BugBear

 

[Bluekingfisher]

Hadn't crossed my mind. Though I wouldn't use water - I don't want things to go rusty.
If you want to do woodwork you have to stop worrying about the shiny newness of your tools - they are going to end up looking used. :shock: Tragic, sad but inevitable.
I've heard that some people are reluctant to use their benches as it could spoil the finish. :roll:

_________________
cheers
Jacob

It's not about the tools

I've been woodworking over 20 years so my tools are well used. I prefer to use them for their intended purpose is all, that way they look much like they did when I bought them.

I just prefer to work in a clean and organised environment.

That said, I believe you have answered my question.

 

[Bluekingfisher]

How much is too much? One penny more than you are happy to pay. I'm sure Holtey, Marcos et al would make a jack plane for you if you have the budget and the inclination.
How much is enough is probably a better question, and for typical jack usage (as a rough prep tool) very little need be spent.

DC - Mr Grimsdale's point about skipping grits is that scratches at worst do not affect performance, and may indeed reduce stiction, so once preferred tolerances have been reached, it is only neceassry to polish the peaks, not remove the troughs.

BB - for localised high spots straight from the factory, check any unfettled CS88. Goodly sized bump just behind the mouth. As you say, easily remedied.

The query "how much is too much" was in relation to how much metal to take off, not the price of the tool. Just thought I would clear that up

 

[JimB]

The query "how much is too much" was in relation to how much metal to take off, not the price of the tool. Just thought I would clear that up [/quote]
which raises another point - how over-engineered is a Stanley of that era? :wink: