No. 62 Low Angle Jack Plane On Interlocked Grain.

[pollys13]

I have Peter Seftons DVDs, Timber Selection, Preparing Timber and Selecting and Using Hand Planes.
I also have a Quangsheng No 4 smother and an Axminster No 5 Jack plane. I've learn't quite a lot from Peters DVDs and have read up on pitch angle etc.
When I start to square up the Utile for my window and doors on the planer/thicknesser. Should I be looking at getting a No. 62 Low Angle Jack Plane to remove any planer ripple, machining marks from the interlocked grain of the Utile by grinding a deeper bevel on the cap iron?
Cheers.

 

[D_W]

Just set the cap iron very close and keep the initial bevel around 50 degrees. No need to buy anything unless you're looking to play with a new toy. Ultimately, your 5 with a cap iron will outperform a low angle plane unless you just can't get the hang of setting the cap iron.

 

[G S Haydon]

Just move the cap iron closer, might need a slightly different shape to the front of the cap iron on the QS. A good template is the shape of a stanley cap iron. It'll be a good learning experience, the utilie/sapele woods can be very troublesome.

You could use the 62 if you want an excuse to buy one, but the edge will have have to be honed to a steep angle and making a camber on a bevel up is not much fun, the fact you can't adjust as you work is a bit of a pain. What you have should serve you well.

 

[ED65]

Just to echo the above, close to very close cap iron will give you everything you want as far as tearout control is concerned. Close being approximately in the range of 0.3-0.5mm and very close being under 0.3mm, down to a hairline of the iron showing in extreme cases (unlikely to be needed here).

FWIW some people remove planer marks just with a cabinet scraper or card scraper.

 

[shed9]

To add some balance to the above, yes you can probably achieve what you want with the tools you already have however YES you definitely need a 62, feel free to use this as an excuse to go and buy one - you know you want it.

 

[memzey]

To add some balance to the above, yes you can probably achieve what you want with the tools you already have however YES you definitely need a 62, feel free to use this as an excuse to go and buy one - you know you want it.

Lol! Yes well done, I'll bet he was waiting for someone to reply in that fashion!

 

[Jacob]

For difficult grain you need a higher angle, not lower. Easily achieved by putting a bit of a face bevel on any plane, though just setting the cap tighter should be enough.

 

[bugbear]

For difficult grain you need a higher angle, not lower. Easily achieved by putting a bit of a face bevel on any plane, though just setting the cap tighter should be enough.

I'm sure you meant to say higher effective angle, which is (as you know) readily achieved on a bevel up plane, by altering the bevel.

BugBear

 

[D_W]

just setting the cap tighter should be enough.

It literally should be better (although it's something to learn at first for a week or so) for any wood that can be planed. Once in a while, wood doesn't allow that, though, and must be scraped sanded (specifically, wood that has really weak early wood that crumbles when contacted - quartersawn cocobolo and the like - though such wood wouldn't wear well, anyway, so I don't know who would use it where that was a show face).

 

[Peter Sefton]

First thing I would do Polly is get the finish as good as possible from your machines, so sharp cutters, slow feed speeds and the finish from the thicknesses could be improved by putting a front bevel on the cutters. (Not for surfacing with though)

You may find to can get a good finish from your standard bench planes again sharp tools, close set cap iron and a fine mouth and small shavings. Getting the cap iron or chip breaker as close as possible to the blades cutting edge is the best remedy for your standard plane, but with a back bevel or high angle effective pitch this is the cutting edge and will get a cleaner finish in my opinion.

I demonstrated all three in the DVD, so use which ever plane you have and if you don't get on with it then try another method or plane.

Cheers Peter

 

[mikefab]

Surely a batch of windows just needs a quick sand once they are assembled? Are they going to be painted?

I appreciate you are doing this for yourself not for profit but surely hand planing window components is a bit of a waste of time?

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

 

[Peter Sefton]

I would hope to only flush the joints and fit the lights, I would sand the rest of the frame to remove and planer marks.

Cheers Peter

 

[pollys13]

FWIW some people remove planer marks just with a cabinet scraper or card scraper.
Yes, I do have one for finishing the ground on my carvings.

 

[pollys13]

your 5 with a cap iron will outperform a low angle plane unless you just can't get the hang of setting the cap iron.
OK, thanks I'll go with the No 5 then.

 

[pollys13]

What you have should serve you well.
OK cheers.

 

[pollys13]

Surely a batch of windows just needs a quick sand once they are assembled? Are they going to be painted?

I appreciate you are doing this for yourself not for profit but surely hand planing window components is a bit of a waste of time?

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

No not painted, I seem to recollect in Coleys window making tutorial, he is using a Makita sander, which would be quite an expense to me, though probably just as good cheaper clones. Though why buy what I don't need when I can use the No 5 jack.

 

[pollys13]

Just move the cap iron closer, might need a slightly different shape to the front of the cap iron on the QS. A good template is the shape of a stanley cap iron. It'll be a good learning experience, the utilie/sapele woods can be very troublesome.

You could use the 62 if you want an excuse to buy one, but the edge will have have to be honed to a steep angle and making a camber on a bevel up is not much fun, the fact you can't adjust as you work is a bit of a pain. What you have should serve you well.

OK thanks for the input.

 

[pollys13]

Just to echo the above, close to very close cap iron will give you everything you want as far as tearout control is concerned. Close being approximately in the range of 0.3-0.5mm and very close being under 0.3mm, down to a hairline of the iron showing in extreme cases (unlikely to be needed here).

FWIW some people remove planer marks just with a cabinet scraper or card scraper.

OK cheers.

 

[pollys13]

First thing I would do Polly is get the finish as good as possible from your machines, so sharp cutters, slow feed speeds and the finish from the thicknesses could be improved by putting a front bevel on the cutters. (Not for surfacing with though)

You may find to can get a good finish from your standard bench planes again sharp tools, close set cap iron and a fine mouth and small shavings. Getting the cap iron or chip breaker as close as possible to the blades cutting edge is the best remedy for your standard plane, but with a back bevel or high angle effective pitch this is the cutting edge and will get a cleaner finish in my opinion.

I demonstrated all three in the DVD, so use which ever plane you have and if you don't get on with it then try another method or plane.

Cheers Peter

I'm with you, thanks.

 

[pollys13]

To add some balance to the above, yes you can probably achieve what you want with the tools you already have however YES you definitely need a 62, feel free to use this as an excuse to go and buy one - you know you want it.

It does look sweet.... but I've learn't to say no