No. 62 Low Angle Jack Plane On Interlocked Grain.

[pollys13]

I would hope to only flush the joints and fit the lights, I would sand the rest of the frame to remove and planer marks.

Cheers Peter

OK what grits would you work through and what make? Abranet any good for this, don't know the grits they have available though.

 

[Peter Sefton]

Abranet is excellent, very quick cutting and dust free when attached to the hand block and hose plugged into your vacuum. I would think grit wise you would need 80, 100, 120, 180 for the outside and possibly 240 for the inside to finish off. 80 is very course, so it's use depends on your planers finish.
We stock it from 80 through to 400 but for some reason Mirka UK don't have 150 grit in the small 70x125mm strip size, you may want to opt for the larger 70x198mm size if your windows are big.

For years my favourite abrasive paper was 3M 618 but we are now using Norton 3X ProSand which out lasts the 618. For 3X ProSand I would recommend 120, 150, 180, 220.

Cheers Peter

 

[Trafalgar]

Here is what Robert Wearing said about planing in The Essential Woodworker published in 1988 and which succinctly summarizes the previous hundred years or so of British woodworking manuals. He also re-published the same cap iron settings table that have been in every edition of Planecraft ever printed (9 editions/special printings from the 1920s through the 1980s) which indicated a cap iron setting of around 1/64" to 1/128" of an inch back of the cutting edge for difficult species. 1/64" is .4mm (rounded up; somebody double-check my arithmetic), 1/128, naturally, half of that. Nobody would have been expected then, or now, to actually make this measurement -- it's by eye or "as close as you can get it to the cutting edge" without causing the plane to cease cutting altogether.

Wearing, as published in 1988:

"There are five cures for tearing:

1. Reverse the direction of planing;
2. Sharpen the blade;
3. Take a very fine cut;
4. Set the cap iron very close;
5. Close up the mouth.

Any one of these or a combination of any number of them will prevent tearing." End quote.

Meaning -- try the easy stuff first then the more fiddly adjustments, one may cure or it may take a combination of these to stop it.

In 1988 I was living in France and the last thing on my mind was woodworking, to place this in a personal historical context.

Cheers,

Charles

 

[pollys13]

Abranet is excellent, very quick cutting and dust free when attached to the hand block and hose plugged into your vacuum. I would think grit wise you would need 80, 100, 120, 180 for the outside and possibly 240 for the inside to finish off. 80 is very course, so it's use depends on your planers finish.
We stock it from 80 through to 400 but for some reason Mirka UK don't have 150 grit in the small 70x125mm strip size, you may want to opt for the larger 70x198mm size if your windows are big.

For years my favourite abrasive paper was 3M 618 but we are now using Norton 3X ProSand which out lasts the 618. For 3X ProSand I would recommend 120, 150, 180, 220.

Cheers Peter

OK, thanks for that.

 

[Jacob]

I've always used Mirka A4 torn into 4 pieces to fit a cork block. For joinery 80 grit. For finer finish either hand plane (4 ,5, 5 1/2,) or power sand (Bosch ROS).

Re OP question. 62 is generally regarded as useless and just a collectors piece. Ditto BU planes as a whole - the effective angle is not that far from a BD plane and in any case for finer finish you need steeper not lower angle. Plus they all have adjustment problems - norris adjusters which don't work etc etc.
The exception being the block plane where the low BU angle makes it a convenient one hand plane. Old Stanley 220 my favourite and this is the one essential plane for finishing/fitting doors and windows.

 

[Ttrees]

In my experience, the mouth should not be closed up if you intend to use a close set cap iron.

 

[Trafalgar]

All adjustments presume free flow of the chip, make changes accordingly. No better way than to learn a plane's capability. Mr. Bailey was no idiot, use all the adjustments available in the design to best effects.

On a personal note, I find a yawning wide open plane mouth somewhat disconcerting, but of course you don't want the chip jamming in the mouth either.

 

[Ttrees]

I found the plane was getting very warm in front of the mouth and it was more difficult to push with a tight mouth,
only using a moderately close cap iron, not close enough to stop tearout on some boards/species.
I figured it would wear away the sole if I continued.
The only plane I have where I find the mouth too open is a no.4 piece of junk maroon coloured Stanley that probably flexes
loads in use.
Tom

 

[Trafalgar]

A very close cap iron setting seems to me to make a plane a little harder to push. I use an extremely closed mouth on a smoother, you can barely see a glint of light, and haven't noticed it being harder to push. The cap iron is set to allow a very thin amount of material through the mouth but is not 'as close as it can get to the cutting edge.' A thicker shaving clogs it. I normally don't remove a measurable amount of material with a smoothing plane - just tissue. Others work differently.

 

[D_W]

I find a yawning wide open plane mouth somewhat disconcerting

Something in the middle is much nicer. Give a beginner a plane with a wide open mouth like that, and they'll catch it on the end of a board. I think I'd catch it on the end of a board, too, all it takes is getting a little tired.

 

[pollys13]

I've always used Mirka A4 torn into 4 pieces to fit a cork block. For joinery 80 grit. For finer finish either hand plane (4 ,5, 5 1/2,) or power sand (Bosch ROS).

Re OP question. 62 is generally regarded as useless and just a collectors piece. Ditto BU planes as a whole - the effective angle is not that far from a BD plane and in any case for finer finish you need steeper not lower angle. Plus they all have adjustment problems - norris adjusters which don't work etc etc.
The exception being the block plane where the low BU angle makes it a convenient one hand plane. Old Stanley 220 my favourite and this is the one essential plane for finishing/fitting doors and windows.

OK thanks Jacob.