No. 10 P&B plane?

[Mailman14]

Hi guys, no worries about the hi-jacking! I do it from time to time myself...


Anyway, here's a (copy of sketchup) pic of the problem:-

Thats pretty much what mine end up looking like. But so far I havent really done any joinery more complex than a lap joint, so its not been a problem for me. Maybe it effects the chisel in the more complicated joints?

Tommo - didn't get back to the thread - just realised his "dip, don't tip" (in blue) is a link... opened it just before I read your post - will return shortly to comment (if required). :lol:

 

[Mailman14]

Right Dun, I've read the link, thankyou for that!

Tommo, see above...sorry, I'm new, that's why I asked the question... (as someone's sig says :- "If I knew all the answers, I wouldn't be askin silly questions") :lol:

I'll be looking at them a bit closer when my back's feeling better (off work for a week, and a note for another week - I like him!).

Andy - thanks for your help - I take it they're worth looking after then?

Take care, catch up later
'Bvt

 

[dunbarhamlin]

As BB will attest, Jacob might be considered something of a reactionary in some quarters
But the main thing is to find something that works and then stick with it.

Many of my chisels do have slightly convex bezels - almost inevitable freehanding without a hollow grind. But the only ones I actively 'dip' are mortice chisels to break the heels. And those I want flat stay flat.

I know one fellow (ahem) who uses a nail to hone his chisels. Quite effective too - he drives all of his blunt chisels onto the nail and then invites me down for beers. :evil:

Cheers
Steve

 

[bugbear]

P.S. Im with dunbarhamlin here, I cant see how a slightly rounded bevel is necessarily a bad thing.

A slightly rounded bevel is typically indicative of a sharpening process that will eventually result in a very rounded bevel

Not if you choose to keep it as a slightly rounded bevel. Very easy to do - not a problem at all.

If one has enough ability to choose to precisely maintain a final (at the edge) angle, you may as well use the ability to have a single bevel - the ability required is the same.

As I said, but I'll try to clarify, a round bevel is commonly the first symptom of a process issue that WILL cause a problem later.

As with all things in this glorious and complex world, there are exceptions.

BugBear

 

[woodbloke]

... in a very rounded bevel.

Oh noooooooo...........please, no [-o< :lol: - Rob

 

[Mikey R]

... in a very rounded bevel.

Oh noooooooo...........please, no [-o< :lol: - Rob

I still cant see why this would cause a problem surely we're only interested in the part of the blade where the bevel meets the back - could someone please explain why the rest of the bevel is important? :?:

 

[bugbear]

... in a very rounded bevel.

Oh noooooooo...........please, no [-o< :lol: - Rob

I still cant see why this would cause a problem surely we're only interested in the part of the blade where the bevel meets the back - could someone please explain why the rest of the bevel is important? :?:

There are detailed, long and acrimonious threads in the archives.

BugBear

 

[FatFreddysCat]

The blue handled chisels are Stanleys, either 5001 or 5002, can't recall which of the two, I think blue were 5001, black 5002.
The blue ones were carbon steel finish the black ones had a chrome plating or similar.

The blues were 5001s the black 5002s didn't have chromed plating, they were just over polished. Stanley did do a firmer version of the 5001s for a while in the late 1960s/early 1970s but I haven't seen them for yonks. Can't recall the blue chip being favourites, though, most of the guys I know have or have had Marples "lollipops" at one time or another. The current ones are really soft and don't hold an edge well which is why some people, myself included, have started to go over onto Stanley FatMax through tang chisels.

It's interesting that firmer chisels have all but died out in recent years. Any ideas why?

 

[bugbear]

It's interesting that firmer chisels have all but died out in recent years. Any ideas why?

I think modern practice is a "hybrid" chisel; the old bevel edged chisels had super fine (side)edges, and were delicate.

The old firmers were really rather tough.

The usual modern chisels (only one type) have quite fat side bevels, and are quite strong. They're effectively midway in function.

BugBear

 

[Benchwayze]

... in a very rounded bevel.

Oh noooooooo...........please, no [-o< :lol: - Rob

I still cant see why this would cause a problem surely we're only interested in the part of the blade where the bevel meets the back - could someone please explain why the rest of the bevel is important? :?:

Mike:

It was explained to me thus:

If you sharpen a chisel with a single, 30 deg bevel, (esp hollow ground) there would be little support behind the edge, and the business end can fracture more easily. So a 25 deg bevel is added to alter the effect of stresses when cutting, thus giving 'support' to the actual edge.

Whether you use two (or even three) distinct, flat bevels, or whether you use a 'rounded bevel', the effect is the same, The rearward bevel supports the honed edge. (I heard somewhere that Japanese Chisels should be sharpened with only one 30 deg bevel. Never used one so I am unsure.)

As for the 'Derbyshire Bevel', (whatever that might be).

I thought at first, it looked like the chisels in my old school shop, after we kids had been let loose on the oil-stone. On closer inspection of pics, though, I see a clear demarcation from the 30 deg to the slightly rounded supporting bevel.

So I don't see how it would affect the performance of the chisel. It's certainly a lot less trouble than grinding a 25 deg, then honing. So long as we avoid the dreaded 'bullnose' effect!

John