Newt's Plane

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woodbloke

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Newt (Pete) came round yesterday for a brew and a Garabaldi. He had with him a plane that he's making and I've put up some WIP pics. Pete's made a superb job of making the cutter and CB and I think the finished plane will be a 'good un' :lol: Pete will be along later to let you know what he's done - Rob

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Looks good, nice job on the iron and chipbreaker. Interesting construction, why the separate sole?

John
 
Have to say I'm very impressed with the blade and CB, from the pic's you'd think is was straight from the shop.

Look forward to seeing the finished plane.
 
woodbloke":1zu9x0sh said:
it's acutally better than a shop one :D

Having seen some of Newt's engineering skills, that's not surprising :D Looking very nice - can't wait to see the finished result.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
I used a separate sole because I only had 1 inch thick beech and had to laminate the centre blocks, did not want a glue line down the middle of the sole. There are 5 laminations including the sole, a real pain when gluing, should have used dowels. The big problem was cutting the slot in the sole before gluing to the main body. I wanted a tight mouth I have got about 2 thou at present but that will increase a bit when I do the final flattening. On the body side of the slot I had to angle at 47 degrees to line up with the bed, and 15 degrees with the front face, took all day. Nice to work with beech as long as tools are really sharp.
 
understand now Pete. Looking closely I can now see that the centre parts are 2 piece. Another question. how thick is the CB and what material?

John
 
The CB is 2 mm mild steel and the iron is 3.1mm gauge plate. I formed the curve on the CB using 2 silver steel rollers in a vice. One aspect of the design is that I will be able to operate it with or without the CB, it will be interesting to see if there is any difference in performance. I chose 47 degrees as I have a LN no 4 (45 degrees) which I only use for smoothing, a chinese wood smoother which is bedded at 50 degrees so I thought I would try something in between.
 
First shavings today, nice full width 1 thou fluffy shavings on some beech. Well pleased so far, now I have to shape it so it fits snugly in the hand.
 
Pete - give me a shout if you want me to do that as we discussed, bearing in mind the probs you have at the moment with your back.......reading the mags, some good stuff in some of them - Rob
 
I must get my picture posting sorted, I may have some pics soon courtesy of Rob.
 
Nice work so far Newt... Is this going to have the knobbly gouge markings all over it for grip, as per Krenov? It certainly should look good when oiled up etc.

John :)
 
Pete (Newt) and Paul Chapman have been round this afternoon, Pete brought round his smoother for us to have a look at and play with in the 'shop. Here's a couple of pics of the finished plane......with shavings :D:

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The finished plane is an absolute dream to use and was easily removing .5 thou shavings on the beech it was made from as can be seen be the reading on the digital vernier. Pete has machined the brasswork (which does gives the plane some extra 'heft') again to a superb standard as can be easily seen from the second pic - Rob
 
Wow, great looking plane and nice shavings too. How does the blade adjustment compare to one using a wedge?

John
 
That's an absolute beauty, Newt :shock: =D>

Newbie_Neil":34fo8kjz said:
Newt's plane looks incredibly well made. I just love the look of the beech.
I thought you were immune to the lure of 'The Slope'TM, Neil - sounds like you're slipping... :p :lol:

Cheers,
Neil
 
Johnboy, I feel it is better than a wedge in that you can slacken off the screw a little make any adjustment then tighten up. I have tried both types the wedge is fine ( used on thousands of planes) but can slightly increase the depth of cut when you knock it home, just takes a bit longer when setting very fine cuts, but you do get used to it. For me the the screw method just edges it, but clearly more complex to make.
 

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