Newt's Plane

[Paul Chapman]

If Carlsberg made planes, they'd probably look like Pete's

Pete's plane is stunning, both to look at and to use. In particular, the brass lever cap, brass screws and the blade and cap iron are works of art. I feel quite privileged to have had the opportunity to try it out - thanks Pete

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Benchwayze]

My question answered then. No knobbly gouge marks like Krenov's planes....

Lovely job.

Would maple be suitable for such a plane I wonder?

I would be scratching to make the brass cap though!

Again, nice going
John

 

[Racers]

Hi, Pete

Nice plane mate and mega shiny brass. Any difference between cap iron and just blade? I am undecided my self about cap iron on thick blades my small block plane works fine but it does have a 6mm thick iron.

Pete

 

[newt]

Pete M I think I said earlier that I did design it so I could use it with or without the Cap Iron ( C I). With the C I it seems to require less effort which surprised me I thought it would be the other way around. However the big difference is that the shavings come out in tight curls with the C I but fairly straight shavings with no CI. Moving the CI back to about 1.5 mm from the cutting edge makes the curls much looser about half a mill seems to be the optimum. The curved edge of the CI is highly polished, I perhaps should have tried it when it was dull to see if it made any real difference.

 

[woodbloke]

Benchwayze wrote:

Would maple be suitable for such a plane I wonder?

Pete made this one from beech, a traditional plane making timber but as we discussed this afternoon, any timber within reason could be used 'cos a separate sole or shoe is one of the things incorporated here. This means that if you had a nice lump of English Walnut that was going spare the main body of the plane could be made from that and then a separate sole of something much harder (say lignum, rosewood or hornbeam) could be glued to the underside.
If a separate sole is used it's absolutely essential that a 1:1 drawing is done to work out exactly where the pivot points go on the cap and where to drill the holes in the plane side for them, otherwise it's a bit of a guesstimate as to where you put the holes as I found out when I made a similar plane a while back in Cuban Mahogany and Rosewood .
Also, it's much easier to fit the mouth if a separate insert is made into the sole and fixed with a couple of brass screws.
The brasswork is more difficult to make than a wedge but I think, like Pete, that the blade adjustment becomes easier as the screw can be slackened off a half turn so the cutter is just held and then adjusted with a Philly style tapometer....a half a turn again locks the whole thing solid just above the cutting edge where the cap touches and also at the top where the screw bears....worth having a go - Rob

 

[Newbie_Neil]

Hi Neil

How are you?

I thought you were immune to the lure of 'The Slope'TM, Neil - sounds like you're slipping... :lol:

Oops, I'm in the wrong forum.

Cheers
Neil :wink:

 

[newt]

You may like to know that the plane weighs in at just under 2 pounds.

 

[Paul Chapman]

You may like to know that the plane weighs in at just under 2 pounds.

Pete, I thought the weight of the plane felt really good in use. As Rob said, the brass lever cap probably gives it some more heft, and I always think a heavier plane performs better than a light one.

Cheers :wink:

Paul