Newly made oak windows and condensation

[Jacob]

No source of water vapour internally until occupied* when the heating and ventilation will usually be switched on. If not you do get massive condensation on a cold day. Try it - drive around on a cold day with windows closed and no heat on or ventilation open.

*except what was left over from previous occupancy - hence steamy windows first thing in the morning if you were out late, if there are wet things left in the car or a drunk asleep in the back.

 

[CHJ]

...I assume this is down to the heating and ventilation (what else could it be).

Does anybody understand it in more detail?

BugBear

On most modern vehicles incoming fresh air is passed through the cold air or climate control system. This removes the moisture from the incoming ambient to a level that latent moisture in the 'cockpit' is soon dispersed.

Switch the system cold air unit off and my last 4 vehicles have misted up rapidly and only uncomfortable levels of heat directed at front screen would keep it clear.

 

[Lons]

Thinking about the physics of all this, it's interesting that cars (at least modern ones) don't have loads of condensation on their windows, despite there being no double or triple glazed cars that I'm aware of, and the effect of external cold air being massively exaggerated by windchill, and the people/space ratio being far higher than a house, so more moisture do deal with.

I assume this is down to the heating and ventilation (what else could it be).

Does anybody understand it in more detail?

BugBear

In a modern car with aircon, the system quickly extracts moisture from the air and channels it away through a pipe underneath the car. Try it and you'll see water dripping underneath. It's very efficient but uses energy which is why the mpg is slightly worse when useing aircon.

Bob

ps - I don't think I'm angry! (hammer) I AM NOT ANGRY! (hammer) I AM DEFINiTELY NOT ANGRY (hammer) (and don't belong to a brigade either. :lol: :lol: )

 

[Jacob]

Latest news on the weep -hole front (if anybody is still interested in this fascinating topic) - I had to unblock a few this morning. Bits of building rubbish etc, (they are new) but also various insects trying to hibernate.
10mm copper. The ideal strong but bendy pipe cleaner is a length of bike brake outer cable.
Looks like it'll be a regular annual task.

 

[John Brown]

Thinking about the physics of all this, it's interesting that cars (at least modern ones) don't have loads of condensation on their windows, despite there being no double or triple glazed cars that I'm aware of, and the effect of external cold air being massively exaggerated by windchill, and the people/space ratio being far higher than a house, so more moisture do deal with.

I assume this is down to the heating and ventilation (what else could it be).

Does anybody understand it in more detail?

BugBear

In a modern car with aircon, the system quickly extracts moisture from the air and channels it away through a pipe underneath the car. Try it and you'll see water dripping underneath. It's very efficient but uses energy which is why the mpg is slightly worse when useing aircon.

Bob

ps - I don't think I'm angry! (hammer) I AM NOT ANGRY! (hammer) I AM DEFINATELY NOT ANGRY (hammer) (and don't belong to a brigade either. :lol: :lol: )

If you're going to spell definitely like that, please do it in a smaller font!

 

[Lons]

If you're going to spell definitely like that, please do it in a smaller font!

:lol: :lol:
Quite right. I definitely suffer from clumsy finger syndrome, especially on the keyboard of my phone. My spelling is usually not too bad.

Bob

 

[Jacob]

Just been reminded of this thread from 10 years ago.
In the meantime we got an EC rating C for our chapel conversion which isn't bad especially as we have single glazing and large area of glass.
The Passivent system still works brilliantly and we have neglible condensation.
Big building but energy bill lower than small house averages
Weep-holes need cleaning out very occasionally due to insects nesting in them. The tool to use is a short length of bike brake outer cable in an electric drill. It cleans round the bends and only takes a few seconds!
With hindsight under floor heating would have been a good idea as you can feel where the pipes are with your bare feet. I'd use copper as we have had 2 plastic pipe fails which could have been disastrous but luckily were not. These were where plastic joined to metal - a tap and a shower.
I wouldn't do solid concrete underfloor as a fail could be disastrous, but also its a lot of concrete to heat up before you get the benefit. Bring back the hypocaust! but with a wooden floor. Could be piped heat or even air circulated but with ease of access for maintenance, up grading etc.

 

[Lefley]

I hope you saved the sort of new pvc double clad thermal windows.

 

[joncooper27]

Hi I have just read through the thread!!
I own an old stone house with thick walls all the walls are breathable plastered with Lime painted with Breathable paint, mainly clay paint. When we bought the property all the walls were wood chip and the house was damp and had a lot of condensation. We have insulated some walls with hemp and lime plaster.
If you are having a lot of problems this is supposed to be a good piece of kit for for positive input ventilation putting dry air into the house. They all so do a version that warms the air to.

https://www.nuaire.co.uk/residentia...positive-input-ventilation-systems-piv-nuaire

 

[Nerminater]

Warm edge spacer bar or "Swiss Bar" + trickle vents.

 

[John Brown]

Hi I have just read through the thread!!
I own an old stone house with thick walls all the walls are breathable plastered with Lime painted with Breathable paint, mainly clay paint. When we bought the property all the walls were wood chip and the house was damp and had a lot of condensation. We have insulated some walls with hemp and lime plaster.
If you are having a lot of problems this is supposed to be a good piece of kit for for positive input ventilation putting dry air into the house. They all so do a version that warms the air to.

https://www.nuaire.co.uk/residentia...positive-input-ventilation-systems-piv-nuaire

I installed one a year or so ago. Best £300 I ever spent.

 

[Jester129]

Short term answer is a dehumidifier, a good one is around £200 to £300 and will take moisture as specified. Dry out a room at a time as required and move to the next room. When done, leave the dehumidifier on a low setting, on the landing overnight, but with your bedroom door open such that the sound doesn't disturb you.
The house will eventually dry out.
Long term get the frames painted or remade in something like redwood. Having experienced an empty house for some time before we bought it, this is what we did. Experience counts (please note Jacob). I am certain this will go a long way to resolving your issues.