Newbie woodworker questions - dust extraction

[Ttrees]

Thanks. Yes, a workbench is on the to-do list. I've got a whole book on them, but would be interested in your advice on what design to choose. I was leaning towards a sturdy flat table with various jigs clamped or bolted onto it.

Hello M Chavez
To make a broad statement you can go about this in two ways
The first way is with a lot of tools and jigs making a hell a lot of dust,
relying on sanding far too much, having to spend more on tooling be it cutters or abrasives.
making loads of noise.
The second way can be done with much less dust,noise,and what I feel is a more in tune feel for the timber
your working, I believe it will deem more accurate results for you.
A good bandsaw is an essential tool.
A tablesaw would be nice to have also.
You need a bench that will stay as flat as a good machine table for thicknessing
The bench will require a bench to make it that is flat as you can get.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Brhbg2fEffc
I like the traditional style Klausz/Scandinavian bench and that's kinda what I'm going for.
I would look out for a fire door in a skip that is flat and rigid, this would be nice for all the other attachments jigs.
For after you make your other bench.

There are things where, imho, hand tools are not the way to go. Cutting jigs out of 18mm ply? Accurately ripping cedrella or maple neck blanks down the middle? Jointing all the neck parts? chiselling an accurate channel for a truss rod? Cutting the rosette channel by hand? Cutting the binding channel by hand?
Cutting with hand saws creates a fair amount of dust anyway?

To get the precision you want, you would want a perfect hand plane surfaced face and edge to register against your fence and everything else.
This goes for everything you want, be it done with machinery or not.
I'm just saying you have to start at being able to get your lumber true, the ability to work without having to keep having to
need router cutters or whatever consumable.
You will find other similar consumables that will be more of a priority to do specific jobs, instead of going through with jobs
that could be done with a plane, with an iron that's edge can be rehoned.
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Same applies to sanding - truing up the dome on the bracing and the bridge? Applying finishing touches on the binding? rounding off the kerfing to match the dome of the soundboard and the back? Finishing touches and true-up on the fingerboard? Lapping the soles of the planes?
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This would indicate that you intend to use a cutting device before abrading, since less dust can be inhaled and your abrasives won't dull as quickly.
Some methods will require stuff like radius jigs, "driving the bus" and various devices, A router and a laminate trimmer will defiantly be on the cards.
If you intended to lap a plane you would want either a cut granite or other cut stone, float glass not plate glass.
or a surface plate. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hV_APMEwU04
or
I would be very grateful for any tips and advice on the tasks above.

Tom

 

[deema]

I would have thought that a decent bandsaw and a drum sander would be the ideal combination of equipment to take the hard work out of what you describe. The drum sander will reduce the amount of hand sanding and scrapping dramatically. For these you will need a hvlp dust extractor like you've referenced, however, I would place it outside the workshop as it eliminates any issues of fine dust being breathed in from the waste air, and cust the cost down of the unit.id buy a secondhand unit off an auction site for your use age. Where ever possible the chip dust extractor is best placed outside, and since you will be running it for very short periods of time I would have thought that shouldn't be too much for the neighbours to get worried about. If necessary an insulated dedicated hut for the extractor can be made to reduce the noise down considerably. It will also free up valuable workshop space.

For power hand tools you need a lvhp or shop vac, and preferably a good face mask. A powered mask such as the trend airshield is a good economically solution that will not fog up.

 

[M_Chavez]

Thanks.
I like the idea of putting the dust collection outside and freeing up the space.

Bandsaw wise, I recon I'll go for 14" or 16" until I get myself a better workshop. Something along the lines of Record Power 300 or 350. Startrite if I can find one locally. Any other suggestions?

 

[Ttrees]

As I said go for used 20" saw as it will be the same price as a new one half the size.
I have a Elektra Beckum 315 and it is not a ripping machine
It will squeal , get blunt fast, wander in a cut if material is pushed with any productivity
In short these saws might have a throat height but that's for foam not wood.
BTW most bandsaws when they have a number it dictates the bandwheel size,
So that BS 300 would be 12".
Just about all right for bracing stock.
Get yourself a 20" and enjoy it instead of hate it, bandsaws can be finicky things and the bigger the less faff.
Just save if you cant afford it now, it will be worth it.
You should have an idea of what you will need and stick to it
Look on the OLF and see what the mostly hand tool guys have.
Good luck
Tom

 

[Ttrees]

Did ya know I like bandsaws
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RECORD-POWER- ... SwnK9ZPpAP

Here is a 20" saw, not a steal by any means, I have not looked at the specs like weight,
Would hope to be about 200kg.not hard to dismantle into light, manageable bits.
I don't go on eBay much for saws, since I got a good un
Just an example of what you could get if a bargain came up.
I would be looking for a 3phase euro saw thats needing work, and has a dual voltage motor, but thats me
Theres a Wadkin before it, but I'm not sure what motor they have and if its dual voltage, gorgeous saw though.
I would defiantly check the weight on those first.