newbie looking for kiln drying service on northeast

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peteroughton169

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hi there everyone. I'm new on here. I've recently acquired some large oak rounds and was looking to get them kiln dried instead of them just sitting in my garage for a few years. does anyone know of anywhere in the northeast where I could get them dried out ready to use? thanks for reading g and I appreciate any replies
 
Wrights Forestry Services in Willington kiln dry their logs. Might be worth a phone call.

https://www.wrightsforestryservices.co.uk


Looks like they have a pretty big kiln too...

https://www.wrightsforestryservices.co. ... ried-logs/

WP_20170210_12_06_15_Pro-169x300.jpg
 
It may help if you describe the material you have, is it in the form of lengths of tree trunk still in the round ? If so it will need to be sawn into planks before drying. If by rounds you mean coin shaped pieces of oak cut from a trunk, then it will not be possible to dry them without tangential shrinkage destroying the timber. I doubt that anyone operating a kiln could provide a competitive price for drying a small quantity. There are a lots of things to learn about drying timber, a search of the net may tell you how to do it yourself but it takes time.
 
You could ask scorton sawmill if they have kilns. There pretty close to you near Sutton bank
 
peteroughton169":2mujvlrn said:
I've recently acquired some large oak rounds and was looking to get them kiln dried instead of them just sitting in my garage for a few years.
If the wood is already in the form of disks, thick or thin, and the large round surfaces (which are exposed end grain) are not coated with anything you won't have to wait anything like that long! The oft-repeated rough guideline for drying of a year per inch of thickness is for wood converted to boards.

As you might have heard wood grain is sometimes likened to a bundle of straws so end grain is like the open ends of the straws. Once you visualise it this way it's easy to imagine that moisture can enter and exit those at quite a clip. In order to slow drying, which helps minimise cracks forming, in commercial drying operations the end grain is usually sealed e.g. with a wax-based product.

On a board only the ends, the smallest surfaces, are end grain and they're still usually sealed to prevent fast water loss. On a slice of log the largest surfaces are end grain so they can dry out at a prodigious rate, and that's why they usually crack.

So what you really want to do is slow the drying. It's too late now to minimise cracking (steps taken as soon as possible after cutting, within the hour if possible, are the only way to do that) but you'll maximise the usable amount of wood if you seal off all the flat surfaces now. Then try to forget about them while they dry out for a few months.
 
I also think if you do find some one with a kiln they will just tell you the same , you will just end up with kiln dried fire wood, the only chance you have to avoid large splits is very slowly.
 
Paraffin wax, PVA, old paint, varnish, nything that comes to hand. You can buy end seal but it's not essential. What sort of size are these rings and what do you hope to use them for?
 
If you have any varnish in the house that's a good option. Paint can work well too, but oil-based rather than emulsion or anything that thins with water.

Whatever you use, don't thin it. Slather it on at full strength.

Doesn't have to be pretty! Does need to be thick to do the job properly.
 
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