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Does anyone know why pictures show as sideways, but sometimes right way up when clicked on?

Checked the timber, and it is all C24, not C16, bonus!

Lorry turned up, last delivery before indefinite shutdown. Insulation ready for wall build.

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Sheptonphil":3mnm69c1 said:
DBT85":3mnm69c1 said:
Shame it looks like this nicer weather is about to vanish!
Looking good here for a week

We're expecting "feels like 2c" for the weekend!

Good luck with it all. Must be exciting finally getting to the point of cutting and making the frame up.
 
Definitely exciting.
I spent this afternoon just setting out and bedding one sole plate and DPC to within a mm on the 3 4 5 triangle from the house wall and set level with the laser. I used 3.6, 4.8 and 6m for setting out.

The whole structure will be built from this one piece as reference so wanted to make sure it’s absolutely spot on. Possibly anal, but this represents a lot of my savings so want to do it properly. Hopefully get the rest of the sole plates bedded and secured over the weekend. going to be a steady build as two main construction items are on hold.
 
If you haven't strapped those plates down yet, wait until the muck has gone off well and then house out for them. Best to do this with a router rather than a mallet and chisel for fear of disturbing the mortar, but if you set the straps down (allow for the depth of the screw heads, too, then your panels can sit on the top and be moved around without fouling them.

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Will take a pic later, yes I routed a channel for the straps and screw heads dry fitted, before setting it on mortar and DPC.

Bricks were laid 10 days ago so their bed is well set.
 
A productive day setting the sole plates on the DPC

Working alone has its disadvantages. Tucking DMP in under 4.8m lengths of 4x2 whilst a force 8 blowing was frustrating and arm aching, but perseverance paid off.

All DPC bedded on mortar and all plates strapped down. This should ease the wall build, it was far easier making sure everything was level and square without having eight foot of wall attached!
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I think its now time to tackle the walls, recon I'll start with the left hand attached to the house, build that one up, insulate it (that'll use six packs of Rockwool) and put vapour barrier on to keep rain off.
 

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I know you guys do a lot of things differently than us but leave the insulation until after the roof is done including the shingling and siding on so the structure is dry. Water will get in and once in not dry out at this stage. The vapour barrier will take damage from boards being swung, stuff falling against it and so on too.

Pete
 
You’re probably right, I’ll find a tarp to cover the extra pile of insulation.

Water tight will be a long way off, it will be a month delay after they go back after enforced shutdown to make the trusses.
 
Well, plan B, if it’s even viable.

With the manufacturing shutdown of trusses for up to four months, but the decent availability of timber, what is the chance of building some kind of roof structure in the longitudinal direction that would, on the outside at least, give a duo pitch apex roof.

Is there a way using up to 8x2 timber to achieve this? Some sort braced rafters in the long way, ceiling joists crossways perhaps?

Whether it ended up flat ceiling or vaulted internal is acceptable. I won’t be using the ceiling for storage of anything.

If it’s a pipe dream, I’ll just have to sit it out.

The plans are like these sketches
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It's the ceiling ties which would be difficult, but as they aren't important, then with purlins that's a do-able cut roof. What angle is it?
 
A cut roof requires a structural engineer's calculations to satisfy the local council. I am an architect, not a structural engineer. I can tell you that you'll need a structural ridge beam which the engineer will have to size, and purlins (again, sized by the engineer). The rafters will almost certainly end up at 400 centres, and with purlins, 195x45 will be fine.
 
Thanks Mike

We have a structural engineer at the Bowls Club. There will be no season this year, so reckon he will have a bit of spare time to spec this up.

Thanks
 
More progress over the weekend and today.

Walls being constructed and stored ready for final assembly. Just the garden end wall and middle wall to build, then start to erect the structure.

I’ve got to put most of the noggins in yet, but they are damned heavy as they are, so I’ll leave that till they’re up. Working alone is fine, I can concentrate on building walls to my detailed scale plan, but humping those completed frames is no joke. It didn’t help that I’ve gone to 400mm centres on the ends to carry the rafters above every stud as well as double wall plate.

I think I’ve worked out a way to handle it, temporary support and then join together unaided.

This virus has a lot to answer for.

Engineer has designed roof, and given me a timber list. Fortunately, I’ve a really good working relationship with a local DIY company who has given superb service and will be delivering my last timber order on Friday. A load of spare 4x2 (I kept adding studs so have used a fair bit of my spare lengths) and all the roofing materials.

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Any particular reason for the change to 400mm as well as the double top?

Is that not belt, braces and 9 inch nails through ones hips just to be sure?
 
That’s exactly what it is. Over engineered for total peace of mind. :D

For the sake of £30 of extra timber, I’m doing it now as I can’t (and in all fairness probably wouldn’t need to) do it later. I’ve left the sides at 600 centres though.

I’ll use 12mm coach bolts to join the sections at the corners, the 9.5m side, which was made in three sections, will be bolted together when up. Then I’ll finish the noggins.

First fix electrics could be routed after that, as we’ll as trench the services along the back of the house. I’ve Also got to put another electric box in the wall alongside the meter box for my sparky to split the supply.

I’ve got the membrane, counter battens, osb and insulation on site so that may be doable, as I can’t do the roof alone.
 
More progress as the weather holds.

Last of the wall panels made up ready.
The spray paint is to make sure I know which side faces inwards and colour to mark joins in panels, build by colour if you like.

So glad I asked Mike about setting the sole plates. With the sheer weight of the wall panels, there is no way in hell I could have bedded them, DPC and DPM without screwing something up completely had I not set the single plate first. As it was, with the sole plates bedded, strapped and set, I had a rock solid immovable base to not only work off, but more importantly work to. I spent a lot of time and care setting the sole plates before strapping, and it has paid off big time now.

As I started to assemble the panels on the base, everything just lined up, perfectly level and so easy to make sure walls were plumb before bolting panels together. Working alone these days makes you work out how to move 100kg 2.3m tall panels without doing yourself a mischief! :?

Steady as she goes, should get the rest of the frame up by the weekend.

Just had my last delivery, so all the roof timber is here on site.

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Another good day on the build.

I managed to put the membrane and battens on the first panel and a half as I shan’t be able to get to that bit till I remove the fence panels for replacement in a few months

All the pre-made wall panels popped up on the base plate, clamped together first, carefully make sure everything was plumb then bolted together, screwed to the plates and bracketed to the house wall. H&S would have had a field day here today with safe handling procedures, 120kg+ on the front panel, but it’s up.

This framework is going nowhere.

The off cuts from the 4.8’s of 4x2 will cut nicely for the noggins tomorrow. The gas nailer has made this construction so much quieter than using screws and an impact driver.

Timber supplier now shut indefinitely, but phoned me today to give me his home number and as they will be in stock taking and general tidy, will drop off any more timber or fixings I need during the closure.
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