New workshop for 2020

[Blackswanwood]

Phil - I ran a one tonne dumper over a temporary path made by laying down OSB sheets across a lawn. The lawn soon recovered and I probably did 20 trips each way.

 

[Lons]

As for the digging, won't help crossing any part of the lawn unless you put down protecting tracks but you can hire a micro digger which has the ability to narrow it's tracks and get along a narrow path. As narrow as about 750mm and they have fold down roll bar to get under arches, I've had them inside buildings and they are easy and fun to operate and remarkably effective. If you don't fancy driving you can hire with driver as well.

Great for narrow trenches if you use the 300mm bucket, it's what I used on my own extension years ago and also to dig out the pond.

EDIT
This type!
I seriously considered buying one when I had my business

 

[Sheptonphil]

Phil - I ran a one tonne dumper over a temporary path made by laying down OSB sheets across a lawn. The lawn soon recovered and I probably did 20 trips each way.

Lons, I can get a 1-1.5 tonne digger in, the OSB and dumper is a brilliant way to keep damage to a minimum.

Look more and more like I can do this the proper way, dig out and somehow concrete floor (working on that one) without having to employ divorce layer.

 

[Blackswanwood]

Phil, it’s worth considering block and beam. You will need to remove less spoil and have less disruption if that’s an important consideration to keep the family sweet!

 

[MikeG.]

Phil, it’s worth considering block and beam. You will need to remove less spoil and have less disruption if that’s an important consideration to keep the family sweet!

Levels are the major consideration when it comes to suspended floors. There will be a big step up into the building, or else there will still be a big excavation, and that excavation would at lest need drainage to be considered. A big step up affects the headroom.

 

[Sheptonphil]

Progress

I’ve had a quote for a 4.5m3 load of C30 delivered and pumped over the wall (16 metre boom?) for £750+ VAT all in, as long as they get to choose which day in the week it’s delivered and I get told day before. That timescale works for me. This works out a £100 dearer than standard delivery and rebuilding the wall, but if rebuilt would never look the same, and the same cost as block and beam setup, but without the extra depth dug out. Guess I’m going to have reinforcing steel to add as well.

I will put this floor method when giving building notice after planning is approved.

Bit of a delay now till it goes through the planning permission process.

Thanks all for input, will post as things develop.

 

[Sheptonphil]

First stage, town council planning went through ok last week.

Today the district council planning officer did his site visit. His first words before seeing the site were, “I’m recommending this for approval”

I replied with “ I’m asking for a Non material minor amendment to the plan” and showed him a new site plan with an extension to the new workshop added to the rear of the workshop, but would be in front of the house line. After a look at the location, as pictured earlier in thread, he hmm’d then said “fine, just send in an amended plan and I’ll add it to the application” no reconsulting, no extra fees, no hassle. This planning officer is a real gem. Straight down to earth using common sense. He could have made me put the amendment through planning portal at a cost of £34 with £25 ‘service fee’.

So, planning approved, just awaiting formal notice.

I had a quote to dig under 30m of footings, they came back at £6000!!!!!!

What is a reasonable cost to dig 30 linear metres of 400mm wide, 300mm deep footings, 100mm type1 base, 200mm concrete and two courses of concrete blocks. Remove spoil and supply all materials.

New layout with extended store room 2.6m x 2.0m

 

[MikeG.]

.......Today the district council planning officer did his site visit. His first words before seeing the site were, “I’m recommending this for approval”

I replied with “ I’m asking for a Non material minor amendment to the plan” and showed him a new site plan with an extension to the new workshop added to the rear of the workshop, but would be in front of the house line. After a look at the location, as pictured earlier in thread, he hmm’d then said “fine, just send in an amended plan and I’ll add it to the application” no reconsulting, no extra fees, no hassle. This planning officer is a real gem. Straight down to earth using common sense. He could have made me put the amendment through planning portal at a cost of £34 with £25 ‘service fee’. ..........

A non material (or a material) amendment applies only to an existing permission, which you don't have. Changes like this mid-process are commonplace, and are always dealt with the way your was. Sometimes, if the change is important, they'll re-start the consultation process. Nonetheless, it's good news that he's recommending approval. You should be building in a few weeks time!

As for the groundwork price........how many people have you asked for a price? You want a local jobbing builder or groundworker. not a contractor. Is access an issue for the muck-away?

 

[Sheptonphil]

No, access is decent for a 3.5t tipper. I’ve asked a second two man builders, they’ve looked but no price yet. Just wondered what is a ball park figure.

 

[Sheptonphil]

Well, have just received notification that planning has been approved.

Now, planning the roof, I have shown on the plan the left part of the roof a hip which I fine. How do I bring the roof off the house wall and cover both the workshop and extended part in one. Can it be done with one or more hips?

I could just roof the main part with another hip, then roof the extra bit separate, but this would mean lowering the height of the extended part.

 

[MikeG.]

How have you got planning permission without a roof plan, and elevations showing the roof from all sides?

 

[Sheptonphil]

As for roof Mike, the original drawings had just the single rectangle with a hipped pent roof, it was only on site visit planning officer agreed in principle to new addition, asked me to submit a new plan, which I did. The extra bit was shown as pent. I have spoken to him about it and instead of hipped roof, he is allowing alteration to have a 7.4m apex roof lengthways, with the extension having its own pent roof. It is hidden from view front and back, and the side facing neighbour which would have had a slope with a hip either end will now have a gable end, no extra height, both ends will be the same, just the middle will be apex instead of pent.

It will make tiling a whole lot easier from my property. To clad the sides, I will be removing and replacing the old fence panels that need replacing anyways. Have agreed with neighbour to fund the new panels (slot in to concrete posts) in exchange for having the fence down for a day or two to put the siding on then slot panels in. The hardiest plank siding has a 20 year warranty and no maintenance needed.

I will be using commercial apex trusses at 22.5 degrees, made to measure. Do any of the walls need tying together? The roofing will be cement slate tiles.

Started clearing site today, old shed ripped down and carted off to tip.

Will try to reorientate the pictures, Have marked out with line marker the dimensions, all looks good, going to be a really decent size.

Digger hired for Monday to start foundation.

The journey begins.

 

[MikeG.]

If you are buying trusses then they include a tie (the bottom chord), and will have been calculated to take the load imposed by the tiling.

 

[Sheptonphil]

Excellent. Thanks Mike. It just seemed so much easier using commercial trusses from Donaldsons, than having to have a much larger and heavier self made structure. I think they are 75x35 trusses instead of the 150x50 + I would have had to use before. No wall plate, easier to tile with no hips, easier to flash, and guttering can discharge into the house down pipes either end. The front/back orientation means I can change slates easer if the need arises.

Shan’t order the trusses till the two base courses of brick are laid so I can make sure I get the right size made.

Sure there will be many more questions as the build progresses, thanks for the input.

 

[MikeG.]

Are you having a flat ceiling then, and insulating at ceiling level? Many people instead have a vaulted ceiling, use the "loft" space for wood storage, and insulate at rafter level. With only 75mm (are you sure?) depth you haven't room for insulation in the rafters. Oh, and there will be a wall plate.

 

[Sheptonphil]

Are you having a flat ceiling then, and insulating at ceiling level? Many people instead have a vaulted ceiling, use the "loft" space for wood storage, and insulate at rafter level. With only 75mm (are you sure?) depth you haven't room for insulation in the rafters. Oh, and there will be a wall plate.

Yes, flat ceiling, plaster boarded its insulation above. I don’t know the depth yet of the trusses, only that they are 35mm thick. If they are 100mm deep I guess I can put insulation rolled across the ceiling joists with more solid insulation bats between them to give 200mm. Will be asking about that and vapour barriers later when trusses are here and about starting them from the house wall.

Will post up a new dimensional plan over the weekend.

 

[Inspector]

I don't know how you normally do things but before doing much more than the concrete I would think through all the details of the construction thru finishing before I ordered anything. If you don't you might find yourself doing something that will be costly to work around instead of dealing with it in the planning stages. Venting above the insulation from eves to peak for example. Like having a stud under each rafter so the loads from each rafter travel through the plate, down the stud, to the sill in a straight line. Are you running wiring inside the wall or surface mounting in conduit? If you try to wing it as you go it can get expensive when the inspector doesn't pass it.

Pete

 

[Sheptonphil]

Thanks Pete.

Foundation and base up to two courses of brick at DPC level should be complete by Thursday, weather permitting. At that point I will do structure drawings to put the wall studs in line with the trusses before construction. Electric and water service ducts are already planned into the base and water pipe and armoured cable are on site to install

Electrics will be in the walls (and two floor points as well) and will be done as a first fix. Ceiling will be insulated, vapour barrier and plaster boarded. I don’t want to use the little bit of loft space for hoarding. It’s a fairly low pitch roof at 22.5 degrees so no massive space anyway.

Roof will have dry ridge venting, with vents at the eaves as per mikes plan.

Walls will have breathable membrane, counter battens for ventilation and cement plank cladding, timber frame filled with rock wool, vapour barrier and boarded inside with fireproof plasterboard. There will be acoustic plasterboard, vapour barrier and acoustic insulation on wall adjoining house.

 

[Sheptonphil]

Started pre planning the wall and roof construction

On a timber frame with commercially made trusses, is there a need/advantage in going 400mm centres as against 600mm to support weight of Marley cement slates.

The dimensions of the frame are 7400x 3750 with the trusses along the 7400 length supported on the 3750 walls. One 7400 wall is the house abutment, the other will be a free standing gable end.

I would set a wall plate the same profile as the truss on the house wall, would I build a similar structure at the gable end or use the truss as the end? I’m thinking I should be building a frame of 2 x 4 as it’s got to carry the external cladding.

The difference is 10 trusses for 400mm studs, as against 7 for 600mm studs.

Would then the gable end also be set to 400mm centres even though it’s not load bearing.

Thanks for any advice.

 

[MikeG.]

Double your wall plates and you don't need to line up trusses with studs. Having said that, I built my workshop with studs on 600 C's. There's no need for 400 C's unless you're lining the inside with plasterboard, and even then, you can use 15mm plasterboard at 600 C's.