What wood be the best angle to put on a bowl gouge and a spindle as I have very little experience Ty.
New to wood turning
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Robbo3
Established Member
There is no correct angle but 30° is considered the norm for a spindle gouge.
Bowl gouges vary depending on the user & a host of variables. As a generalisation 40° or 45° would be considered the norm but my advice is to stick with what is already there. Changing the grind angle will waste a lot of metal & probably not provide any benefit.
Bowl gouges vary depending on the user & a host of variables. As a generalisation 40° or 45° would be considered the norm but my advice is to stick with what is already there. Changing the grind angle will waste a lot of metal & probably not provide any benefit.
Thanks for that
Paul Hannaby
Established Member
I would disagree on the spindle gouge. Most people would go for 40-45° for that one. 30° is usable but would lose its edge faster and you could go steeper than 45° if you chose to.
For a "standard" bowl gouge, I would suggest around 50° and I wouldn't necessarily go with what was on the tool when bought new because some manufacturers put some odd bevel angles on some tools! Much lower and you will find you can't maintain bevel contact on the inside of deeper bowls. Even with 50° you may find you reach that limit - I have one gouge ground at 60° just for the extra deep bowls but initially you won't need that.
As Robbo said, there isn't a right or wrong angle. The bevel angle on the tool (particularly spindle gouges) is the result of the relationship between the lathe height, the height you like to hold the tool and the toolrest height. So if you find whith whatever bevel angle you have chosen that you aren't holding the tool in a comfortable position, adjust the bevel angle to compensate.
You don't necessarily have to grind the tool all the way back to change a bevel angle. If you are going for a steeper bevel, just grind far enough to create a working bevel. There's no need to waste metal and grind it all just for the sake of it. In fact with bowl gouges, I always grind two bevels anyway because they work better that way.
For a "standard" bowl gouge, I would suggest around 50° and I wouldn't necessarily go with what was on the tool when bought new because some manufacturers put some odd bevel angles on some tools! Much lower and you will find you can't maintain bevel contact on the inside of deeper bowls. Even with 50° you may find you reach that limit - I have one gouge ground at 60° just for the extra deep bowls but initially you won't need that.
As Robbo said, there isn't a right or wrong angle. The bevel angle on the tool (particularly spindle gouges) is the result of the relationship between the lathe height, the height you like to hold the tool and the toolrest height. So if you find whith whatever bevel angle you have chosen that you aren't holding the tool in a comfortable position, adjust the bevel angle to compensate.
You don't necessarily have to grind the tool all the way back to change a bevel angle. If you are going for a steeper bevel, just grind far enough to create a working bevel. There's no need to waste metal and grind it all just for the sake of it. In fact with bowl gouges, I always grind two bevels anyway because they work better that way.
Thanks very much for that I will keep what's on the tool
There are pages and pages with images of sharpening for bowl gouges
https://www.bing.com/images/search?...k=Sv4ht29xTMyZ%2bQ&pid=ImgRaw&r=0&vt=4&sim=11
https://www.bing.com/images/search?...k=Sv4ht29xTMyZ%2bQ&pid=ImgRaw&r=0&vt=4&sim=11
Terry - Somerset
Established Member
Personal opinion - find a grind angle (and profile for some gouges) which is generally regarded as a reasonable norm.
Stick with it - don't change it. It is too easy to assume that any problems can be solved with a different grind or jig. I found is that most problems initially are user inexperience and error.
When you can work without catches and deliver simple shapes to order, you will be better able to understand and make use of different grind angles in the knowledge that problems are likely the result of the cut attempted and the grind used, rather than user error.
Stick with it - don't change it. It is too easy to assume that any problems can be solved with a different grind or jig. I found is that most problems initially are user inexperience and error.
When you can work without catches and deliver simple shapes to order, you will be better able to understand and make use of different grind angles in the knowledge that problems are likely the result of the cut attempted and the grind used, rather than user error.
Thanks for that I am going to stay with the angel which was on the gouges when I purchased them till I get more experience tyvm.
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