New Shed Dilemma

[Steve Blackdog]

Any advice welcome on my shed buying problem...

I am planning for it to be my workshop for my woodturning and other odd bits and peices of woodworking. I want it to house my lathe, band saw, grinder + maybe router table etc and a reasonable workbench, plus storage for other tools etc.

I have just enough room for a 12 x 8 Apex shed, but a 10 x 8 will fit much better. I feel 10 x 8 will be big enough, but wonder what it will be like if i start filling it with kit?

Tanalised 22mm shiplap with a DP membrane on the walls costs nearly twice as much as the second favourite which is not tanalised (but treated) 19mm shiplap, but no DP membrane. With the price difference I could buy a new lathe :wink:

I don't want to find everything rusts, but notice than very few ready made sheds (ever heavy duty ones) have DP membranes on the walls.

If I buy the cheaper shed without the DPM can I retrofit DPM between the spars?

I am planning to line the walls with plywood and possibly put kingspan type insulation between the spars of the frame.

Any wisdom gratefully received.

Cheers

Steve

 

[filsgreen]

Go for 12x 8 Steve, you'll soon fill it! If I was you I would build it rather than buy, much more fun and it will be far better quality.

Phil

 

[Steve Blackdog]

Go for 12x 8 Steve, you'll soon fill it! If I was you I would build it rather than buy, much more fun and it will be far better quality.

Phil

I'd love to build it but my wife rhetorically asked me "when will you do it?" - she would rather me finish the bathroom first!

Steve

 

[maltrout512]

Steve I agree with Phil. If you can fit in 12' then you have a little more room. I always try to buy or make to as large as you can go evry time. Learned early on when I bought a ts only one month down the road my needs had out grown it.

 

[Steve Blackdog]

Any views on the Damp Proof Membrane point?

 

[maltrout512]

Steve, Mike Graham should be able to help you.

 

[filsgreen]

Beat me to it Malcolm, I was just about to post this link

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... hp?t=27327

Phil

 

[lurker]

Steve,

As always, everyone here is quite happy to spend your time & money (that you have not got) for you. They are right, if you want to wait until you are an old man before you can afford perfection.

I had a time problem & went for a cheap shed as I felt £4K was getting a bit daft.
I went in with my eyes open to the downsides. I bought a 16 X 12 ( I had no space problems) for £800 and spent extra on reinforcing the floor & better roof felt. I was also lucky to get some free stuff ( Sand & slabs) to help me build a good foundation. Did the lot for £1100.

I did th whole job over 4 weekends ( base took 3). And spent the Christmas holidays fitting it out. its been up nearly 2 years now. I intend to make better doors but it keeps slipping down my tuit list.

I have no regrets ( well one, I wish I had more room). No condensation problems. No sign of rust on my tools. There were about 3 or 4 weeks last year where it was too cold to work in the evenings but otherwise I've been fine.

 

[Escudo]

Hello there Steve,

My advice is to make your shed as big as you can. In workshop land big is good.

I would also avoid scrimping on the dpc / damp membrane issue. I wish I had set my shed up that way. This is a one time play and not easy to install thereafter.

I have got plans to move to a bigger workshop. My 10 x 8 shed is just not big enough. I have been dreaming of something 24 x 14 or thereabouts.

Regards, Tony.

 

[mailee]

Mine is a small 24x13 foot and it still isn't big enough. your need for space seems to grow as your tool and machnery does. :roll:

 

[Steve Blackdog]

Cheers Folks

This all goes to prove the old truth: you gets what you pays for.

And the second truth NILIF (Nothing in life is free)

One final question: from reading the other threads, I see some pretty positive coment about using OSB for the roof.

One of the sheds I have seen has the following spec:

A sandwich cladding of:
16mm tanalised shiplap
DP membrane
4mm ply

12mm OSB roof

22mm T&G floor with tanalised floor joists.

The OSB roof put me off - but now it looks like this might be ok?

Thanks again

Steve

 

[MikeG.]

I am planning to line the walls with plywood and possibly put kingspan type insulation between the spars of the frame.

Steve,

just remember to leave a gap between the insulation and the inside of the cladding........should be 25mm. If you line the inside with ply, you can probably leave a DPM out altogether, as ply is highly vapour-resistant. Dont forget to insulate the floor and the roof.....

My main concern with these bought sheds is always where they meet the ground. I hate to see timber in contact with, or at the same level as, the earth. Ideally, it should be raised at least 150mm above the finished ground level. A brick plinth is best.

As soon as you can afford it, apply a better roofing material than felt. My suggestion is Onduline, but there are plenty of alternatives.

Mike

 

[Steve Blackdog]

Mike

Thanks for the advice. Any views on the spec I set out two posts up?

Steve

 

[MikeG.]

Cheers Folks

One of the sheds I have seen has the following spec:

A sandwich cladding of:
16mm tanalised shiplap
DP membrane
4mm ply

Steve,

I would be careful of anything that didn't have an air-gap behind the outer cladding..........and of course, we are back to the old favourite of plastic at the outer surface. This is a real no-no. Any plastic should be inside the insulation.........indeed, if you have it , it should be close to the inner face of the wall build-up.

This advice applies to any wall where you have insulation, and any out building which you work in...........but you could get away with it just for a store shed. ....(although I would still want a gap behind the cladding).

Mike

 

[Pete Howlett]

I have a spray booth that is an off-the-shelf shed - 5' x 3'. Cost me £240 made with heavier components than normal. I've clad and sealed it with plasterboard and builder's caulk, fitted it out with extractor, bench, window and new glazed door (m&t construction). In the end, the total build cost including eqipment was about £500 and I am very happy with it. No DPM but no damp problems yet - there is good air flow around and under the building.