New one to me

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From what I was told years ago, plastic under the microscope shows a lattice like structure and is porous to gas under pressure - there's a word for it and I can't remember what it is. But that is apparently the reason that beer is not in plastic bottles. But then soft drinks are so I dunno.
Concerning a gas displacing air in tins, I use pebbles in my teak oil but I'd rather something else. Been thinking about propane, contains carbons, no oxygen, heavier than air, I've got lots and I don't smoke.
 
Not a good idea, you want an inert gas to replace the air in the tin. ~ this
 
From what I was told years ago, plastic under the microscope shows a lattice like structure and is porous to gas under pressure - there's a word for it and I can't remember what it is. But that is apparently the reason that beer is not in plastic bottles. But then soft drinks are so I dunno.
Concerning a gas displacing air in tins, I use pebbles in my teak oil but I'd rather something else. Been thinking about propane, contains carbons, no oxygen, heavier than air, I've got lots and I don't smoke.
But beer is in plastic bottles. Google it. Major american breweries have did it for years in places like sporting events where glass is a Nono. And home breweries have had plastic bottles for as far back as I can remember.
 
There is an excellent product called StopLossBag™ I’ve been using them for at least the last 8 years and have just finished using a polyurethane I put in one 7 years ago and it was still perfectly good I’ve been using some from the bag over that time. It certainly beats rocks and is easier than spray heavy oxygen excluding can, yes I’ve used it.
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But beer is in plastic bottles. Google it. Major american breweries have did it for years in places like sporting events where glass is a Nono. And home breweries have had plastic bottles for as far back as I can remember.
Coopers sell plastic bottles for home brewing that have a special coating that they claim reduces oxygen ingress? Egress? Gress?
I'll go with migration.
 
Back in my photography days I used small glass marbles to top the chemical's bottles. Allways had about a couple kgs at home. Of course they had to be well washed and dried when changing reagents.
 
I use a lot of volatile metal primer.....mostley brushed aplication......
the biggest tin is about 3.5ltr.....here in Crete industrial paint products are sold by weight....????
anyway, with the ambient heat in summer and an hours working with an open tin it starts to get quite thick......
So when finished I use a little of the correct grade thinners, just to enough to cover the surface area of the paint in the tin...
Close the lid and invert the tin until next time.....never had any paint go off or skin since using this method....
Paint is very expensive here and have lost a lot in the past due to skinning and starting to go lumpy.....
Also, never bother now to clean brushes, said thinners for this metal paint is almost €40 for two litres.....
so now I just use enough thinner to give a dept of 10mm in a large paint tin (that will take the brushes) then dump the brushes inside n close the lid tightly.....saves a fortune on thinners and brushes last well providing you use the wooden handled type....plastic handles melt with the thinners fumes......plan to make a proper closed paint brush tin from st/steel where the brushes are suspended just above the thinners, that way any paint drops to the bottom....and no claggy paint on the brushes....these are available in UK prof paint stores but not here.....
ps all painting is done in the open......hardly a rainy day prob's here....thats after March 1st......
brush mate trade 20.jpg
 
Marbles would seem to be a good option if using original containers. Some years ago I went on a day course with Tracey Owen who had his oils decanted into small plastic bottles with 'sports caps', basically used children's drinks bottles. He squeezed these to expel air before closing. Always seemed to be a good idea.
 
Well, somethings going on with my Briwax Teak Oil in that it's taking days to loose its stickiness. It's winter in NZ but my workshop doesn't drop below 20°C so temperature shouldn't be a problem. I put pebbles in the tin to eliminate air and the oil looks fine. I had thought the problem might be the surface prep with oil impregnated 0000 steel wool causing the stickiness but just used 400 grit paper inter coat and no improvement. Currently I'm thinking that since I don't like using teak oil from an open tin I normally scoop out the required amount for the coat being applied - about 8 - 10ml. Oil is applied to the work using a 10mm sable artists brush. Perhaps by decanting such a small amount of oil to use, the solvents in it are evaporating too quickly and I am applying a solvent depleted product and that is resulting in the stickiness. Don't know, clutching at straws here.
But concerning beer in plastic bottles I checked this one out and indeed beer does now come in plastic bottles but this is intended for immediate consumption and not for long term storage.
 
And polythene sheet in Italy. How much is 5linear metres? Have to cut and weigh it.
Surely they must have cut and measured a meter or each at some point and put a note of it on the wall.
 
So you can ask - how much is 47m of x
and the reply can be "About £xx.xx" just like for nails and other things sold by weight, shop-keeps usually know much the D of Q is for any item they sell
 

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