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The Pad stones have been replaced, and the resin floor has started to be applied. Yesterday the floor was ground, and any imperfections ground out, filled and then a coating of a bonding agent was applied over which sand was sprinkled. Today and loose sand will be hoovered off and another coat of bonding will be applied. The sand and bonding agent are to provide a string key for the resin to attach to. Hopefully by the end of the week the resin floor will be finished and next week I can start to move my stuff in and get a workshop back!
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The Pad stones have been replaced, and the resin floor has started to be applied. Yesterday the floor was ground, and any imperfections ground out, filled and then a coating of a bonding agent was applied over which sand was sprinkled. Today and loose sand will be hoovered off and another coat of bonding will be applied. The sand and bonding agent are to provide a string key for the resin to attach to. Hopefully by the end of the week the resin floor will be finished and next week I can start to move my stuff in and get a workshop back!
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I know I should wait and see but what colour of epoxy have you chosen? Ok, I can wait.
 
So, having a resin floor in my own property is a learning curve, the first coat of resin is a scratch coat, it’s a further sealer (three in total) to stop any air trapped in the screed below coming up and causing pin holes in the surface. The resin gets hot as it sets causing any air in the screed to expand and ‘bubble’ out. Evidently the better the prep / sealing the better the finished product……isn’t it always the case! Anyway, the blue colour is in contrast to the finished colour which will be light grey. Again the idea being that if the resin coating gets damaged too deeply I will see the blue and know it has to be filled as opposed to just being annoying. Moisture / stuff getting under the resin could cause it to start and lift.

The start of laying the actual resin colour.
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The expansion ‘cracks’ are having a lot of attention each time they add another layer. Again it’s to stop any issues arising later.




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From what you’ve posted it looks like you have a good plan for a functional and nice workshop/garage. Given your experience with bigger machines and plans for CNC equipment you’re already ahead of the game with regards to floor load capacity and insulation to house standards. Here’s our thoughts on a few points based on the design and your current requirements:

1. Flooring & Underfloor Heating:​

You’re right about underfloor heating. For a workshop like yours UFH will be the most efficient and cost effective heating solution, especially since you don’t need to worry about rust. With the insulation plan this will keep running costs down. Just make sure the screed you choose can take the weight of your heavier machinery—our advice would be to go for a high performance structural screed that can distribute the load well and be durable.

2. Garage Doors:​

For insulated, draft proof and mouse proof garage doors we would recommend sectional garage doors over roller shutters. Sectional doors are better at sealing the gaps between the door and the structure, more insulation which will help with your overall energy efficiency. Look for industrial grade models, possibly with added security features like anti-lift kits or locking mechanisms for peace of mind.

3. Foundation & Ground Survey:​

Great you’ve already had a ground survey with boreholes—this will give you all the data you need to design the foundation for the heavy equipment. Once you have the results we would recommend you discuss the load distribution with your structural engineer, especially since you’re planning machines up to 3 tonnes.

4. Roof Design:​

Good call on maximizing headroom without internal beams, this will give you a more versatile space to fit taller equipment and overall feel of openness.



Cheers,
Gordon.
 
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