Need help on Norris Plane

[LyNx]

I have just received a few hand planes from the father in law and one of them was this Norris. I'm not sure on the age or model but i think it could be the Norris A5 Smoothing Plane. Marked iron with Norris London on front and Rob’t. Sorby on back

Can anyone advise on the model, how best way to restore it. I don't intend selling but i would like to know any approx value as is and after restoring.

Alf, Philly, is this a good end of year gloat :wink:

Andy

 

[Philly]

Nice one Andy! :shock:
Better watch out-you'll have Martin knocking on your door :lol:
Cheers
Philly

 

[Waka]

Nice one Andy! :shock:
Better watch out-you'll have Martin knocking on your door :lol:
Cheers
Philly

Is that martin the collector?

 

[Philly]

Maybe :lol:
Philly

 

[dedee]

Andy,
can't help much with the planes but tell us more about the jigsaw piece that they are standing on :lol:

That looks like one unusual table.

Andy

 

[LyNx]

Dedee, i have just added a new post in the completed projects of the jigsaw tables.

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?p=86798#86798

Andy

 

[Matt1245]

Thats clever Andy, a smashing table gloat disguised as a plane gloat. :lol:

Are you learning from the master?

Matt.

 

[mahking51]

Lynx
You seriously suck!
I think it is past restoring but I'll have a go at nickel plating it if you like...
Nice thing to own take care of it.
Regards
Martin (NOT the one who is a collector!)

 

[Scrit]

As our resident hand tool experts haven't picked up on this one, I will, assuming I have the imagination to do so. The plane is correctly identified as a Norris A5 smoother. This one is the post-war version made by Aeronautical and Equipment Co (?) of Croydon between approx. 1946 and the mid 1950s. The infill is "ebonised" beech and there is an ongoing debate amongst Norris afficionados as to how they were produced with one camp favouring the steel pieces being welded together then infilled. Whilst it looks pretty ropey it should clean-up well (with something as basic as a random orbit sander and 120 grit alox paper for the sides) - the main thing I'd be concerned about is that the adjuster mechanism works OK. As to plating it - please don't as you'll destroy or at best damage any value in it. I've had one of these (post-war A5s) in the past in fairly original condition and they were originally finished in what was referred to as "machine polished" finish - rows of circular swirl marks made by a grinding rubber coated with carborundum and used in a drill chuck, a bit like a smaller version of what you sometimes see in the stainless steel panels on fish and chip ranges, at least the fancier ones.

Cleaned this tool probably has a value of £200 to £250 assuming it looks OK, but if I were you I'd keep it and use it. If you want any advice on restoration, please PM me.

Regards

Scrit

 

[LyNx]

Scrit, thanks for the info. I had a little go at cleaning it last night with my dremel. It may take some hours but the rust is only light and should remove easily. I'm going to sand the timber down but may not finish to original colour, not sure yet. I'm not going to sell as it was a gift and stayed in the family, so i'll pass onto my son when he's old enough.

I think i'll wait until i know finished the few little jobs i need to get done in the garage then i'll look at restoring. Thanks for the offer of more info and i'll be taking you up on that

Andy

 

[Scrit]

Andy

They really don't look good when finished "au natural" as the infill was a rather insipid beech on most of them. I know because I tried it on one. The original finish on ones I have inspected appears to have been a very dark brown tinted varnish. BTW the 120 grit is the starting point, after that I 'd switch to wet and dry and work up to around 600 grit for a super finish.

Scrit

 

[Alf]

Andy's unwisely asked for my opinion on this... First off, I should stress I'm not much of an infill afficiando, so largely I'd approach it just like any other bit of rust. Viz, from the archive:

For what I call "crusty" rust use a scraper/Stanley knife blade to scrape off the worst. Then I like to use maroon webrax (or other synthetic wire wool substitute of your choice, or even the real deal if you prefer) and white spirit on the japanned areas if they're very rusty, but the grey if the japanning is largely intact. If it's totally perfect and lovely, don't touch it! Sides, sole and any other areas of bare metal which are reasonably smooth get 320 wet 'n' dry well lubricated with (guess what) white spirit. Rough bare metal areas get the maroon webrax and white spirit treatment too. For awkward corners etc use whatever combination of toothbrushes, cotton buds, bits of stick with a rag around the end or mystic chanting works for you.

Obviously japanning doesn't apply here. Yes, it's painstaking doing it all by hand, but it does avoid any unintended damage you might otherwise cause if using powered means.

As far as the wood goes, I've never seen one in the flesh, but a dark varnish sounds likely. Perhaps garnet shellac with some extra stain might do the job nicely? Probably looking at quite a few coats wiped on, but I think the finished result might be sufficient reward for the effort.

I probably have a contemporary advert or two skulling about, if you'd be interested, Andy?

Cheers, Alf

 

[CHJ]

...snip...As to plating it - please don't as you'll destroy or at best damage any value in it. I've had one of these (post-war A5s) in the past in fairly original condition and they were originally finished in what was referred to as "machine polished" finish - rows of circular swirl marks made by a grinding rubber coated with carborundum and used in a drill chuck, a bit like a smaller version of what you sometimes see in the stainless steel panels on fish and chip ranges, at least the fancier ones.
...snip...Scrit

As a matter of interest The Swirl Polish effect was one of the worst 'Sins' as far as finish was concerned when I was training as an instrument maker. Although I myself see it as quite attractive if done with care, it can be used to good effect to mask minor surface blemishes and anyone foolish enough to do so was made to re-polish the surface to show any imperfections.

 

[LyNx]

Thanks for the inputs Alf and CHJ. I'm going to put this on hold as i can't stop thinking about this storage solution 8)

Once i have cleaned the plane up, then i'll address the boards again to how best to finish the items.

Alf, did you mean me... PM if so

Andy

 

[Alf]

Alf, did you mean me... PM if so

If you mean about the ads, I did. But I only meant scanning them in if you were interested. Sorry, should have been clearer.

Cheers, Alf

 

[LyNx]

Anything to help Alf.

Andy