Narrow table behind sofa using Kreg pocket screws

[Osmo]

Hello,

I wonder if you might be able to offer some seasonal movement advice to a novice, very basic woodworker.

If I built a narrow table (that's painted) with redwood planed standard timber from Alsford's, to what degree would I need to allow the top to move? If at all. If it's pocket screwed and glued?

21x120x2000mm top that's pocket screwed and glued to 21x45mm aprons.
45mm square legs nailed or screwed to the aprons at each corner. Lord knows what I'd do about affixing 20mm long aprons to the legs at each end of the table.

I'd this thing to last but with most of it hidden, and painted, it doesn't warrant being built of oak. Plus, I only have a compound saw and circular saw.

Am I over-thinking the seasonal movement?

 

[custard]

I think you'll get away with a 120mm being fastened directly to the frame. Redwood moves a lot while it's drying, but once dry it tends to be pretty stable. Try storing the boards in the house for a week or two before making it.

The thing that would concern me more is the stability of the table itself, 120mm is awfully narrow for something that'll be 750mm or 800mm off the ground. You could splay the legs but then they'd protrude past the top so it's all too easy to kick them when walking past, plus you're into angled joinery which might involve some head scratching if you're new to woodwork

Good luck!

 

[Osmo]

Many thanks, custard. Yes, it could be a little wobbly. Hoping the sofa will keep it in place. Or I could bracket it to the wall.

 

[blackrodd]

Hello and welcome, I've just made a similar table with blind, mortice and tenon at apron and leg, in the "traditional" fashion
The 30" top had to fit in an alcove 13"wide and 30"" high, fixed to shrink plates from fleabay.
With the table frame 1" smaller all round, this made the frame 28"x 11" which rather concerned me at being so small.
I gambled on 7x1 rails and a drawer for a bit weight all out of softwood, and painted Sage from Ronseal.
The timber should be indoors for at least 4 weeks, cut close to finish size, and settle.
Two rails cupped, so I middle flat cut these, shot edges straight and re-joined them and rejected two legs of the six I had cut a little longer in length.
The rails need to be 4" wide, without a drawer, or wider, depending on drawer size.
With an ash top, painted white and the grain showing though it does look nice and it is stable,luckily.
I wouldn't make a table smaller in section or materials, as you have suggested, let the timber settle and if you are using pocket screws, a 4", or 10mm top rail/apron will accept two screws fixing for a stronger job, I would glue them too!
If it's any use, here's a link for free side table plans for a Butchers to see the "balance" in sizes.
HTH Regards Rodders
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=free+ ... D20QsAQINg
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-large-righ ... SwJkJWl-kL

 

[davin]

I don't know where you are in Sussex, but if you are near Lewes or Worthing buy the timber from Wenban smith. Nothing particularly against Alsford, but Wenbans is much better quality.

 

[Osmo]

I don't know where you are in Sussex, but if you are near Lewes or Worthing buy the timber from Wenban smith. Nothing particularly against Alsford, but Wenbans is much better quality.

Thanks for the tip. I'm in Eastbourne so Lewes isn't too far.