Nails for Oak

[Davidadew]

I am making a replica early country style cupboard where the original was nailed. Whilst I will hide some stronger joint in there I also need to put in some authentic nails in to complete the look, it is a requirement of the project.

I'm well aware that oak can attack certain metals, but, after some research I'm a little confused as to which metals are suitable.

For example, Rutlands have some nails

http://www.rutlands.co.uk/cabinet-hardw ... ture-nails

but I'm not clear if they are suitable for Oak, and what these are made from.

I've considered copper, but am not sure if they are authentic but they may do.

Any suggestions about materials, and for a good supplier?

 

[Cheshirechappie]

The original piece would almost certainly have had blacksmith-made iron nails. There would have been some staining on the oak by the nail-heads in time, but over a couple of centuries of oiling or waxing, the oak would have darkened enough to conceal whatever staining there was.

If you don't need many, a local blacksmith may knock some out for you. That would be the most authentic way by far.

 

[marcros]

there was a discussion on blacksmith nails a while ago, specifically sourcing them. i will have a search and see if i can find it for you

 

[marcros]

traditional-nails-t56723.html?hilit=blacksmith nails

Could you fume the oak with ammonia to darken it in order to hide the staining?

 

[AndyT]

Peter Follansbee in the US works exclusively in oak using 18th century tools and techniques. He also has a highly readable and informative blog. This post discusses suitable nails and gives some sources: http://pfollansbee.wordpress.com/2012/08/15/for-some-work-cut-nails-dont-cut-it/.

 

[xy mosian]

Am I correct in thinking that Oak from the period when nailing was used would be worked 'green'. How does that affect the use of nails? As I understand it 'green' Oak can be nailed without splitting, I cannot imagine that dry, whether air or kiln, Oak would behave in the same manner.
xy

 

[AndyT]

Am I correct in thinking that Oak from the period when nailing was used would be worked 'green'. How does that affect the use of nails? As I understand it 'green' Oak can be nailed without splitting, I cannot imagine that dry, whether air or kiln, Oak would behave in the same manner.
xy

That's a practical thought!

I did a quick test. I don't have any green oak but here's a scrap of oak, probably kiln dried American, and a couple of cut nails.

If I knock a nail in near the edge, yes there is some splitting:

If I go away from the edge, where there happens to be a 2mm hole about halfway through the thickness, there's no splitting:

Here's a bit of air-dried English oak, nailed near the edge with no pilot hole:

but with a 3mm pilot hole, no splitting even near the edge:

(sorry I missed out taking a picture but I think we can all imagine what it looked like).

And just for thoroughness, this is what I got on the other edge with a 2mm pilot hole:

Conclusions:

Drill pilot holes first and you can nail and not split, even near the edge, but make sure your pilot hole is the right size. (These nails were about 2.5 mm thick and about 3.5mm at the widest point.)

Away from the edge you will probably be ok but a small pilot hole will still help.

 

[Dangermouse]

I am making a replica early country style cupboard where the original was nailed. Whilst I will hide some stronger joint in there I also need to put in some authentic nails in to complete the look, it is a requirement of the project.

I'm well aware that oak can attack certain metals, but, after some research I'm a little confused as to which metals are suitable.

For example, Rutlands have some nails

http://www.rutlands.co.uk/cabinet-hardw ... ture-nails

but I'm not clear if they are suitable for Oak, and what these are made from.

I've considered copper, but am not sure if they are authentic but they may do.

Any suggestions about materials, and for a good supplier?

If you are talking about country furniture of the Victorian period then a lot were nailed, but if you go back further when nails were hand made and expensive, lots of good country furniture, used wooden pegs. A good wooden Oak peg is as strong as a nail, sometimes more so. Plus you get no staining. If you like the look of the handmade nail standing proud, you can have the same effect with a peg.

 

[xy mosian]

Conclusions:

Drill pilot holes first and you can nail and not split, even near the edge, but make sure your pilot hole is the right size. (These nails were about 2.5 mm thick and about 3.5mm at the widest point.)

Away from the edge you will probably be ok but a small pilot hole will still help.

Nicely done Andy thank you.
xy

 

[Davidadew]

Many thanks for all the responses, that is really great, a lot for me to look into!

 

[marcus]

Copper boat nails shouldn't darken the oak and look great!

 

[marcus]

....although perhaps not totally authentic, historically speaking!

 

[Andrewf]

Galvanised nails work in oak and dont rot as much as plain iron nails. Not sure about the level of staining. I have a 90 year old wooden boat that the douglas fir hull is nailed on to oak frames. Which is still all original and with no failure of fixings. One of the classic boat suppliers stock galvanised nails just like the ones in the pictures posted by AndyT.

 

[Outside]

Good testing!

Nails need to be blunt to break fibres rather than push to the sides (splitting).

Some blacksmiths work in stainless steel. It is harder to work but no reason why they couldn't make some nails up for you. Would avoid staining corrosion, etc.

Jonny

 

[bugbear]

There was a recent discussion on the use of bradawls for pilot holes, for nails as well as screws, over on OLDTOOLS.

It might be of interest.

BugBear