My Workshop Plans

[tobias]

So I'm a bit of a nerd and have been planning a new workshop space. I created some digital plans for myself and hosted it on a website which I want to share. It's a slighly cleaner version of the random notes I have scribbed about in different places but by no means finished. The nice thing is I've set it up to accept inputs such as changes of workshop width & depth and the plans update accordingly.

Spent a good part of last year learning sketchup for the 3D images and last 3ish months working on the website/plans at https://plans.northbayworkshop.co.uk/. The more advanced features of the plans are behind a "pay to upgrade" in the hope down the line I can sell a couple of these upgrades to fund my tools and tinkering a little. But for now I can't say these plans are are in a place that's worth anyones money so anyone reading this just use the access code "UKWORKSHOP".

Like I said still a work in progress and I'll certainly add more as I learn and build the thing later this year Anyone spot anything obviously wrong, missing or ways to improve I'm all ears.

 

[HOJ]

I had a quick look at your plans, I am curious as to how your foundation will work, from what I can tell you are extending the concrete pad out by 500mm, and finishing it below ground level, I get your intention to put a French drain around the perimeter, but with the concrete being underneath will it not just create a pond, and also then potentially wash the sand binder away from underneath the screed.

 

[tobias]

@HOJ yea I see where you're coming from. The concrete itself doesn't extend out but the Hardcore MOT sub-base does. Though with that being compacted I do see pooling possibly being an issue if it doesn't drain well enough.

I have compacted MOT sub-base for the path along the side of my house that over the past year has drained well even in heavy rain. It was meant to be a temporary solution until I got around to paving it but due to it being low my todo list its remained.

On top of the sand around the perimeter I was also going to add a weed barrier (forgot to add that to plans). That should help keep the sand in place and whatever does wash out hopefully will we replaced with dirt/silt that makes it through the gravel above. End result is a gravel border that would be something like the picture below.

Still even with the above it may be best to have the concrete pad end up a few cm above ground level. That way if there is any pooling/flooding that makes it up the 10cm it will first go to the grass away from the workshop instead of into the workshop.

 

[HOJ]

@tobias Apologies, I meant hardcore rather concrete, however, I would suggest a review on how you are detailing the foundation/slab.

In standard timber frame construction, you need to have any timber elements at least 150mm above the adjacent ground level, in order to minimise the effect of rain splashing up and therefore leading to premature rotting out and failure.

There are a lot of options in how this is achieved, but it does tend to be site specific and dictated by the ground conditions, and more critical the wallet capacity.

Worth having a look at an old thread that Mike G posted using simpler methods: build-a-shed-mikes-way-without-concrete

 

[tobias]

Ah you're right! Now you've mentioned rain splashing I would be at risk of that even if the gravel border drains well.

Just read through that thread and really good details in there. A quick look at lintel prices this would hit the wallet a bit. Would also lose 15cm internal ceiling height which I thought I was being smart by maximising with my ground level slab (but I don't think I can get around this now).

Glad to get this reviewed before I start building though so I dont make costly mistakes early on so cheers for this.

Think I need to keep thinking on this as the lintel solution Mike gives may be too expensive. I dont want to raise the floor on pillars due to rodents. I could drop the idea of having the slab top at ground level, have it be 15cm and hardcore it sits on be ground level... Cogs slowly turn in my head

 

[tobias]

Spent the past couple days looking over Mikes thread "Build a shed Mike's way" and a few others he's been involved in regarding workshop builds. Can really tell he's been a fountain of know how here.

I can see the lintel solution having the bonus of not needing concrete poured. Though those pre-poured lintels are a bit pricy and I dont really want a suspended floor. But his original thread using 2 courses of brick on a slab seems to suit me.

Also picked up that I don't need (or should have) OSB on the outer sides of my wall studs and from inside to out it should be OSB - studs - membrane - airgap - cladding. Seems I've fallen into the trap of seeing youtube folk do it that way.

Updated my sketchup model and aside from the functional benefits I think it looks quite nice sitting on those bricks instead of just plain cladding.

I'm planning on using composite cladding on the front and metal box profile on the sides and back (those sides wont be seen). So I think I could possibly get away without raising the workshop on the 2 layers of bricks since there's no wood externally under 15cm above ground level. Still I think I best do it the right way and like I said I quite like the aesthetic.

 

[HOJ]

Also picked up that I don't need (or should have) OSB on the outer sides of my wall studs

That's another rabbit hole argument, I use 9mm OSB on the outside on my timber frames, leaving expansion gaps between the sheets, 9mm OSB is marginally smaller than other sheet sizes coming in @ 2397mm x 1197mm, principally it's made/designed for this specific purpose.

Each to their own though.

 

[Jamesc]

Hi, out of curiosity I just tried your site. The size I entered said that the joist size was insufficient. As soon as I try to change the width the site crashes.

 

[Jameshow]

I think your giving too much away in front of the pay wall as those who want to build won't need much more information and those that can't will buy a workshop?

Looks a nice project!

 

[simonridout]

I do not understand the argument for no OSB on the outside. What is a Structural Insulated Panel (SIP) if it is not two layers of OSB or ply, with insulation in the middle and stud work around the edges! Personally, I think that too much is made of moisture control in wood workshops. Relatively little wet work is undertaken, compared to the cooking, washing and laundry in a domestic setting.

 

[tobias]

Hi, out of curiosity I just tried your site. The size I entered said that the joist size was insufficient. As soon as I try to change the width the site crashes.

Ah you're right must be a bug I added I'll get on to fixing that. Cheers for flagging it up.

I think your giving too much away in front of the pay wall as those who want to build won't need much more information and those that can't will buy a workshop?

To be honest I think that's kind of where I want the plans to sit. Enough so someone can get the info to build to the same spec. I doubt or really want to make loads of cash selling plans. The fun part for me is making them and sharing what I'm up to.

If I sell a few that will be nice but I'm no expert builder so seems strange to make money from the plans. Plus all the info is stuff thats freely available via youtube, these forums or elsewhere anyway. I think of the pay wall as a way to tip and fund a few saw blades here and there nothing more. I'm a really bad business man

I do not understand the argument for no OSB on the outside. ... I think that too much is made of moisture control in wood workshops. Relatively little wet work is undertaken, compared to the cooking, washing and laundry in a domestic setting.

From what I gather yea it is for moisture control. With the OSB glue content it essentially acts as a vapour barrier and you want the vapour barrier on the warm side of the insulation thus putting it on both sides means moisure won't escape and condensate, then rot and then the workshop crumbles to the ground yea you're right probably not a huge concern in a workshop setting.

Structual wise I imagine it will be fine without the outside OSB and that's less materials to buy. Then again I'm just regurgitating what I've read. I'm no architect so take everything from my mouth/keyboard with a grain of salt.

 

[tobias]

@Jamesc fixed that joist dimension change issue you were seeing (I think). Luckily a simple fix but want to thank you again for flagging it as would likely have not spotted it myself for ages.