My Woodwork Journey is about to begin - Total Beginner - I may need your advice.

[Phil Pascoe]

https://www.onbuy.com/gb/p/everbuil...Uti1U5uu_b6mlHSQ0zZBctZ58ZnC8HiAaAgeFEALw_wcB

Be aware if you buy it by the litre it goes off quite quickly, about six months. You can see it starts to yellow.
If its being 100% waterproof doesn't matter, use Everbuild 502 - it's a perfectly good adhesive but water resistant not waterproof. It gives you a longer open time and lasts much longer. Cheaper as well.

 

[Jacob]

Thanks Jacob. I have done a bit of planing on edges. Only on softwood, though - mainly to test my plane set-up and sharpening. Until now it has been difficult since I didn't have a suitable fixed work space and no fixed vice or bench - everything wobbly and unstable. I will do more now that I have a stable table - until getting my vice installed I can easily use clamps to support the stock. (I refuse to call my work table a "workbench"...

Firm holding essential. Black & Decker workmate worth considering but not good for planing unless braced against something e.g. clamp in a a length of 2x4" with far end against wall, attach a planing stop and plane towards the braced end.

When you say camber - do you mean the curve you put onto the edge when sharpening the iron?

The curve across the width, side to side. Tighter curve for faster planing. Comes naturally with freehand sharpening, has to be worked on if using jigs, flat stones etc.

My shed is single skin, unheated, only just got windows in, so any exposed metal surfaces will be prone to surface rust - such as the upper surfaces of the iron/chip-breaker, etc... hence the oil. I do also have a candle and plan to use that for the sole. Dunno whether you saw my mitre saw blade on the shed build thread - It's much more noticeably yuk surface rust-mottled on the disc in photos (the teeth are fine) and not so bad looking in the flesh. That's what happened simply from storage in the shed. I've since used some soft beeswax to try to protect and reduce further deterioration.

So many questions - I have so very much to learn.

Linseed oil thinned with whte spirit is easy to splash on everything, wood & metal both. Sets hardish but in use rubs off plane sole or saw sides, but traces remain.

 

[Hypnotic Chimera]

Firm holding essential. Black & Decker workmate worth considering but not good for planing unless braced against something e.g. clamp in a a length of 2x4" with far end against wall, attach a planing stop and plane towards the braced end.

That was an integral part of my "testing"/"training". Worktop in shed is a pretty good hand planing base is my conclusion. Will plan out some dog holes and dogs in the near future.

The curve across the width, side to side. Tighter curve for faster planing. Comes naturally with freehand sharpening, has to be worked on if using jigs, flat stones etc.

Cool, thanks - I've used YouTube as a learning resource and do have a camber on the micro-bevel. I'm using a wheeled jig with a single narrow centre wheel, so putting a camber using pressure near each side of the iron for circa 10 strokes and then pressure in the 1/4 and 3/4 positions across the iron width for circa 5 strokes - gives a "shallow" camber visible to the eye. Wet stones 1000 and 6000 grit. dressing the stones with an oil stone.

 

[Jacob]

That was an integral part of my "testing"/"training". Worktop in shed is a pretty good hand planing base is my conclusion. Will plan out some dog holes and dogs in the near future.





Cool, thanks - I've used YouTube as a learning resource and do have a camber on the micro-bevel. I'm using a wheeled jig with a single narrow centre wheel, so putting a camber using pressure near each side of the iron for circa 10 strokes and then pressure in the 1/4 and 3/4 positions across the iron width for circa 5 strokes - gives a "shallow" camber visible to the eye. Wet stones 1000 and 6000 grit. dressing the stones with an oil stone.

Is that the old Stanley jig? The only one worth having IMHO. Gets a beginner used to the feel of the angle, also can make a camber. Then put it away once you've got the knack.
Not sure about counting strokes etc I just do it until it brings up a burr, looks right etc.
I just use a medium oil stone for everything, or a fine stone for finer finish.

 

[Kayen]

Looking forward to any tips/advice/support that anyone can offer.

Might even chronicle the process? We'll see..

If you are ever over my way I can give you some American Black Walnut offcuts - I've got plenty big enough to make a pencil box or three.

 

[Hypnotic Chimera]

LOL - no - the jig is a freebie that came in a set of chisels. I set it up first using a digital spirit level. That was before I noticed the small script cast into the side of it "for chisels protrusion 30mm for 30deg" and "for planes protrusion 40mm for 30deg" or some-such (from memory). So I tried those numbers and they do translate to an accurate enough angle to work from... It's a we bit janky but does work OK.

 

[Hypnotic Chimera]

If you are ever over my way I can give you some American Black Walnut offcuts - I've got plenty big enough to make a pencil box or three.

Wow - thank you very much Kayen - really appreciate that kind offer

 

[Kayen]

In terms of side thickness I think a lot of people underestimate the strength of good modern glues (personally I will never again buy anything made by Everbuild) - my wife made 21 of these a couple of years ago, they get well used on a daily basis and not one joint has failed. 3.2mm Birch ply with all sides and base simply mitred with a router. I realise you're looking at it more from an art perspective (rather than practical) but I'm trying to emphasis the strength of joints on thin stock.