MY NEW WOODBURNER

[Hutzul]

That's nearly the same as ours, but we were told by the stove supplier to put it on the front of the stove above the door. The body of the stove would be hotter than the flue? I'm not sure, and ours has gone walkabout so I can't try it out.

He probably knows best, but: I do know that my stove seems to give off more 'economic' heat in the mid range of the thermometer, and research I did indicates if you get your stove too hot it may cause a chimney fire, and if you have a cast iron stove it may crack if it overheats.
So I conclude it makes more sense to attach thermometer to the flue, so you know what temperature is going up the flue.
I may be persuaded otherwise if anyone wishes to convince me.

 

[siggy_7]

With regard to the output ratings of stoves, I have read that they are determined by a calculation assuming a surface temperature of the stove, which subsequently determines the heat convected to the room. There's some useful info on this handy site, which gives a lot more detail and contradicts that though: http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/stove-heat-outputs.html. Basically, the manufacturer decides what they want the nominal output to be stated as, and there is then a test to confirm that the stove can run at this output.

Regarding sizing and efficiency, I thought a stove was at its most efficient when not roaring. Whilst it's inefficient for a large stove to be ticking over (because the combustion temperatures are too low), building a real roaring fire will result in the firebox reaching a temperature where it can't take the heat away from the fire fast enough, and the fast-flowing combustion gases will convect a substantial portion of your heat up the chimney. Somewhere about in the middle is best for efficiency iirc.

 

[Richard T]

Graham - your point about KW ratings is quite right. I've never known the so called spec. for either of mine.

The amount of potential* heat is determined by how much wood is burnt at a time, (yup) what species, how well the wood is placed on to the fire, how dry it is and (in our case) the wind direction.

If you ask anyone of an official bent with regards to the huge amount of rhubarb that seems to have made a steady build up since I put our wood burners in, "what output will I get burning Alder compared to Lilac?" I bet they would try to tell you that it would be the same. It's not the same.

How long does it take to build up heat from lighting when cold? Cast or pressed aside, it depends on whether you start with Conifer or Blackthorn.

*I say 'potential' heat because if you leave it all open it will disappear up the flue and if you damp it, it will convect into the room. If there's a lot of heat, that's a lot into the room and it's open the windows time; even if it's freezing out side.

It's a complicated business to learn what works best because every burner in a different location will perform differently anyway before you start burning different wood and have the wind change direction. They are very versatile re the amount of heat they can put out; lots when needed and less when not needed but it has to be learnt.
All this sudden red tape in Britain helps no one except the people selling the stuff we don't need in order to comply with the rhubarb. If in doubt ask a Norwegian. They've been at it much longer.

 

[disco_monkey79]

Apologies if this is a thread hi-jack, but we're considering getting a burner for the living room. The chimney is there, but hasn't been used recently (if ever!).

Has anyone had issues in recommissioning chimneys? Is running a steel flue pipe all the way up a viable option? Safety is my paramount concern, and I've been reading about tar build-up, and carbon monoxide leeching, and all sort of terrors!

I appreciate there are companies offering chimney checks, but they're generally also the same people offering to fit stoves (call me paranoid!).

Thanks

 

[Phil Pascoe]

To get building regs. and insurance, if the chimney isn't lined it would probably have to be.

 

[Webby]

have had a new stove fitted a Stovax and they had to run a liner from stove to top of chimney even though we had an open fire most winters
quite like the look of those gauges to tell you what is happening ..but mine is inset in new fireplace so no flue showing to attach ...or will it work just placed on the front of stove ?
Dave

 

[arnoldmason8]

Apologies if this is a thread hi-jack, but we're considering getting a burner for the living room. The chimney is there, but hasn't been used recently (if ever!).

Has anyone had issues in recommissioning chimneys? Is running a steel flue pipe all the way up a viable option? Safety is my paramount concern, and I've been reading about tar build-up, and carbon monoxide leeching, and all sort of terrors!

Hi disco_monkey79 My daughter and son-in-law installed a wood burner 18 months ago in an old house and the existing chmney had to be inspected by the council both before and after installation. It may have been becuse there is a flat upstairs (Multi occupation building). It might be worth checking with your local buildings inspector.
Hope it works out OK -------Arnold

 

[Hutzul]

Apologies if this is a thread hi-jack, but we're considering getting a burner for the living room. The chimney is there, but hasn't been used recently (if ever!).

Has anyone had issues in recommissioning chimneys? Is running a steel flue pipe all the way up a viable option? Safety is my paramount concern, and I've been reading about tar build-up, and carbon monoxide leeching, and all sort of terrors!

I appreciate there are companies offering chimney checks, but they're generally also the same people offering to fit stoves (call me paranoid!).

Thanks

I had the same dilemma earlier this year, however after speaking to a local plumber who has had a stove for a few years, he put me right on a few concerns that I had.

I would recommend, for a start, to get your chimney swept. I used a sweep who had recently qualified as a HETAS installer, http://www.hetas.co.uk/, he was also registered with http://www.guildofmasterchimneysweeps.co.uk/, cost of sweeping was about £30, and I picked his brain over a few cuppas.
My next step was to smoke test the chimney, to test the draw, a few sheets of burning newspaper confirmed all was okay.
I considered getting the chimney lined, but as I live in a dormer bungalow, figured the cost of about £600 to line the chimney was something I would only have done if needed. I had already checked the chimney for loose bricks etc and found no cause for concern.
I do use a carbon monoxide alarm, they are battery sealed for a few years, so no issues with batteries etc.
I fitted my own stove, and open all my room doors to let the heat circulate throughout downstairs.
I don't know if you want to fit your own stove, but it has to be cheaper than writing a blank check. Last price I heard an Hetas guy charged for installing a stove was £4k, though that included cost of stove. Unlike gas & electric you can fit your own stove if you wish, as far as I am aware you are not breaking any laws.
I was warned not to buy cheap Chinese stoves as they tend to crack.
Go to a local openfire showroom and pick their brains, they will help determine what is best for you, and help you decide.
Best thing I did was putting a stove in, and I am amazed at how many folks now have stoves.
Hope this helps, feel free to pm me if you wish.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

If you fit your own stove you should have building regs. on it.

 

[Richard T]

I don't think that carbon monoxide detection is needed with a woodburner - if you are getting any gasses back into the room, they will be smoky (smoke) and you will know about it by smell if not by sight.

Gas fires need detectoring as they produce nothing to see or smell.

 

[Lons]

Just a little word of warning though!

I've opened up a number of fireplaces now so that customers can have wood or multi burners fitted and though I've been asked to fit the stoves as well, I've always declined due to lack of experience in this area. If in my own house then I probably would fit but would always line the chimney and have the installation approved.

One of these customers had a burner fitted by a company they thought reputable and who advised that the chimney didn't need lining (2 storey house btw). This was last winter and the stove had been in around 6 months when returning from a short shopping trip the found the chimney was on fire and paint was blistering in an upstairs bedroom. It took the fire brigade an hour to confirm it was properly out and the mess was horrendous. They were told that another hour would probably have meant the house burning down. :shock: The company accepted liability and paid for the damage, mainly water, which ran into 5 figures.

phil.p is right about building regs and if you ignore that and have a resulting fire, your insurance company may well refuse to pay on the grounds that it wasn't compliant.

Just my 2 pennerth as a builder who's seen a lot of **** ups!

Bob

 

[dickm]

Although you would expect any leakage into the room from a woodstove to be smoky, it's not worth relying on the fact. Son-in-law went to sleep in their lving room with the woodburner running, and was fortunately wakened by one of their cats who seemed to sense danger. By the time this happened, he was pretty woozy from CO poisoning; they discovered the chimney was partially blocked and the stove not properly sealed into it.
So don't take chances, fit a CO detector, and change it when it's lifespan is up (about 5-7 years)